“I've been leaving harness, via ferrata set, helmet and a backpack with water and mountain stuff in my car for some time. One day I finished a client early, I was a Biella and I went to do the Ferrata dell'Infernone before going home ”.
From this sentence that a friend of mine who works as a representative told me, the idea of collecting a series of aided itineraries that go well for a touch and run in a cutout of time, perhaps because you pass by that area for work.
Here are 13 via ferratas that are a less than 15 minutes of car from a motorway exit and that do not require long approaches.
The Ferrata Carlo Giorda it is rather long (about 5h including the return) but it has a very short approach and is close to the motorway leading to the Frejus along the Val di Susa. The ferrata ascends to Monte Pirchiarano and reaches the characteristic Sacra di San Michele. The via ferrata is beautiful and varied while maintaining rather limited difficulties. Ideal for half a day.
Along the Val di Susa, in the province of Turin, the easy Ferrata della Ruceia was built. The complete itinerary lasts less than two hours and is perfect for a cut-out of time being near the Frejus Highway along the Val di Susa. The ferrata is very aided with brackets and is suitable for beginners.
On the north side of the Val di Susa in the respective countries climb the Ferrata dell'Orrido di Chianocco and the Orrido di Foresto. The first in Chianocco is simpler and shorter with an itinerary that without haste in 1 hour and 30 minutes takes us back to the car after climbing up the gorge with a couple of athletic but not difficult passages. The second in Foresto is certainly a more challenging and varied itinerary. The via ferrata is very beautiful and the approach is short. The complete itinerary is less than 3 hours. Pay attention to the flow of the stream that in spring and winter can create some problems in the overhanging passage and in the fords.
From the exit of Rovereto Sud on the A22 del Brennero you can clearly see the large wall on which the Ferrata Ottorino Marangoni in Mori rises. Leaving the motorway we enter the village of Mori and parked the car we go up the path that leads to the start of the via ferrata. In about 3 hours the entire itinerary is completed which is of medium difficulty even if at times athletic. The recent restructuring has made it more affordable from a technical point of view while maintaining the remarkable exposure of some passages unchanged.
Easily accessible from the San Michele all'Adige exit - Mezzocorona along theBrenner motorway, the Rio Secco Ferrata is ideal as a via ferrata for half a day. Leave the car in the large parking lot near the restaurant in Cadino (Val d'Adige) and set off for the short but steep approach. We climb the beautiful via ferrata along the gorge that generally has no flow problems to complete the ring return from the path (sometimes aided) that goes down towards the Adige Valley in about 2 hours and 30 minutes.
Always near the San Michele all'Adige - Mezzocorona exit on the A22 Brennero motorway, we reach the start of the Ferrata di Favogna. The start is on the western side of the valley and is near the parking lot. The via ferrata is beautiful, not difficult with a couple of steps to study. The only drawback of the itinerary for one touch and run it is the long return that is not difficult though.
From the end of the A27 north of Belluno we enter the state road that leads to Cadore. Shortly after the end of the motorway we find some aided routes on the eastern side of the valley. The Parete dei Falchi is a famous crag on the Piave. A short but challenging via ferrata has also been aided, climbing up the rocky outcrops. Short itinerary that ends in about 1 hour and 30. Attention to the return by exposed path and potentially dangerous if wet after rain.
North of Soverzene in the province of Belluno, a few kilometers from the end of the A27 motorway, we can reach a famous sport climbing site: the Val Gallina Rock Gym. On its walls two aided routes have been aided: one rather easy and one much more challenging. Combining both itineraries will take about 2 hours 30 minutes while in just over an hour it is possible to cover the easiest and quickly return to the car.
In 2015 the Ferrata della Memoria was inaugurated, which rises alongside the sadly famous Vajont Dam. From the end of the A27 north of Belluno in about 10 minutes by car we reach the detour to Erto, then we reach the parking lot. After a brief approach with a tunnel (torch advised) you go through the exposed and athletic Ferrata della Memoria.
Near Sasso Marconi on the eastern side of the Reno valley a few kilometers from the A1 motorway exit you reach the Buttress of the Pliocene. On the walls of this rocky sandstone prominence there is the main rock climbing wall of Bologna and a via ferrata. This aided route is short (about 40 minutes) and of medium difficulty with a couple of more difficult but overall not difficult passages. Ideal itinerary for a half day with short approach and return.
This recent ferrata was built by the Alpini close Pontebba in the province of Udine. The via ferrata extends near a busy climbing wall near the Rio degli Uccelli. The ferrata can be easily reached from the Pontebba exit on the A23 that leads to the border with Slovenia. The via ferrata is very athletic and, although short, not to be underestimated. Complete itinerary of about 2 hours and 30 minutes with easy approach and short return.
The Ferrata Biondi is the only via ferrata in the province of Trieste and extends near the climbing wall Rose d'Inverno ("Winter Roses"). The via ferrata covers a modest height difference, however it is rather challenging with traverses and downhill sections not to be underestimated. The road is easily reachable from the highway near the Julian capital.
Following the feedback of our magnificent community on the Facebook page (see here), we added two routes that we had actually forgotten.
The Ferrata Deanna Orlandini is a very varied via ferrata, beautiful as a whole and practicable during most of the year. The road is made up of some very distinct sectors with escape routes. You walk through a crack-hole, a slab, an overhanging wall, a Tibetan bridge and a traverse in a context that will surprise you with the peculiarity of the rock and beyond. The ferrata is located in the town of Crocefieschi in the province of Genoa, about 15 minutes by car from the Busalla motorway exit on the motorway that connects Genoa to Milan.
La Ferrata del Rouas is a beautiful via ferrata that climbs a rocky bastion near the town of Bardonecchia in the province of Turin. The route is near the motorway exit. The difficulties are generally of medium level with some challenging stretches and a more athletic variant. Excellent equipment.