Via ferrata difficulty ladder

Misconceptions and different interpretations to the same words are the basis of conflicts that can be lived in everyday life. With words we are sure that we have explained ourselves well and our interlocutor does the opposite of what we expected. To complicate matters further, it seems that history has led us to explain things differently between one nation and another, with inevitable further difficulties. Here, the mountain in general and the via ferratas in particular are no exception to this scenario: there are many ways to classify the via ferrata and, to date, there is no uniformly used ladder by the members of theUIAA. In this article we will explain the differences between the difficulty ladders for via ferrata used in Italy and in other countries.

 

Classification of Hiking: EE vs EEA

Let's start with a clarification, or is the classification of via ferratas to be included in mountaineering or hiking? The classification that is given by CAI inserts them into hiking itineraries. In particular, he classifies them as Trails for Experienced Hikers with Equipment (EEA). The specific difference from the Trails for Experienced Hikers (EE) lies in the need to have specific equipment for climbing and personal protection. This aspect substantially differentiates a via ferrata from, for example, an aided path (for more info, an in-depth article at this link). This could be very exposed and require a steady step, but the metal frames present serve to provide greater security for the hiker who runs through it without necessarily having with him all the equipment needed to travel a via ferrata (harness, helmet and via ferrata kit with heatsink). The table below summarizes the classification of the trips. The via ferratas are classified as EEA.

 

Scale adopted in Italy vs Austria vs Germany vs France

Up to this point, no problem. Now, at least at first glance, the differences between the Italian, the French, the German and the Austrian classification begin. Two notes on the origins of the classifications:

• the Italian classification it is based on 5 values that take into account the overall difficulties of the route: F (easy), PD (slightly / moderately difficult), D (difficult), TD (very difficult) and ED (extremely difficult). This classification takes into account the global difficulties of the trip and not only the difficulties inherent to the via ferrata. To this first classification are added 4 further descriptions with values from 1 to 3 on the characteristics of the route: technical difficulties, physical effort, exposure and environmental difficulties. These 4 parameters are present in every report of our site, although to be more granular in distinguishing the various routes we used a ladder from 1 to 5. For more info on how to read our reports, to this link a guide.
• the French classification it is generally based on the values used for climbing routes: the grades start from F (easy), PD (not very difficult), AD (quite difficult), D (difficult), MD (very difficult) and ED (extremely difficult). Finally, there is also the XD (besides the extremely difficult). This ladder, like the Italian, refers to the overall difficulty of the trip. Please note that, although the same classification of alpine routes is used, the meaning of the nomenclature is different in mountaineering or via ferratas.
• the German classification, or ladder Husler, began to make its appearance on Italian paper sites and guides. With the suffix of the letter K (klettersteig means in German Via Ferrata), followed by numbers from 1 to 6 to indicate the difficulty of the route where 1 is easy and 6 is extremely difficult.
• Finally the Austrian classification climbs to a series of guide books on via ferrata written by Kurt Schall and the classification follows in alphabetical order A (easy), B (moderately difficult), C (difficult), D (very difficult), E (extremely difficult). In recent years the letter F has been added (beyond the extremely difficult). It is not rare to see this ladder of classification of via ferratas also in the signs placed at the beginning of via ferratas in Italy, especially in Trentino - Alto Adige and Friuli Venezia Giulia.

In this table we trace the table provided by the UIAA to compare the 4 classifications

 

A note is required. Some modern itineraries are characterized by being very athletic, with hard passages in strong overhang. These routes are classified with the letter F in the Austrian ladder. Among these we mention two extreme via ferratas installed in Spain: the Feliz Navidad via ferrata and the Ferrata Extraplomix. These routes are generally characterized by reduced or no environmental difficulties and extreme difficulties of the via ferrata. From a personal point of view of the writer, these extreme via ferratas are more similar to sport climbing routes with high degrees than to aided trips in the mountain environment.

 

A few words on the other classifications: Hiking and Monteaineering

Although our site is focused on via ferrata, it may be useful to have knowledge of the classifications with which the mountain routes are divided.

• Hiking: as mentioned above, the via ferrata belong to the general classification of hiking routes. These are divided into:
  • Tourist (T): are itineraries that take place on narrow routes, mule tracks and comfortable paths that do not have exposure. The duration is limited (less than 3 hours) and the altitude at which they develop is generally below 2000 meters.
  • Excursionist (E): they are itineraries that take place on generally marked paths or tracks. Sometimes they develop on open land, without paths but not problematic, always with adequate warnings. They can take place on steep slopes; exposed sections are generally protected (barriers) or insured (cables).
  • Expert tripist (EE): Routes generally indicated but which imply the ability to move on particular terrain. Trails or tracks on rough and treacherous terrain (steep and / or slippery slopes of grass, or mixed rocks and grass, or rock and debris). Varied terrain, at relatively high altitudes (screes, short, non-steep snowfields, open slopes with no reference points, etc.). Rocky stretches, with slight technical difficulties (aided routes, via ferratas among those of least effort).
  • Excursion for Experts with Equipment (EEA): as indicated above in the article.
  • Hiking in Snowy Environment (EAI): Routes in a snowy environment that require the use of snowshoes, with obvious and recognizable routes, with easy access routes, at the bottom of the valley or in arduous wooded areas or on open and poorly exposed ridges, with generally contained slopes and difficulties guarantee safety of practicability.

 

• Monteain climbing: the difficulty ladders of mountaineering deserve further study in a separate article. Some brief hints that can be useful even for those who only frequent Vie Ferrate:
  • The international ladder ofUIAA inherent to theMonteain climbing originariamente dal I al V grado, oggi aperta, viene indicata con numeri romani. Si tende generalmente a confondere la scala UIAA inerente l'alpinismo con la scala comunemente usata per l'arrampicata. Il famoso libro di Messner "Settimo Grado" era riferito al settimo grado in senso alpinistico, non di sola arrampicata su roccia.
  • The ladder generally used in Italy for theclimbing on rock it uses a combination of numbers (from 1 to 9), letters (a, b, c) and arithmetic signs (+ and -) to describe technical difficulties. The staircase is open and the most challenging climb to date has been a 9C in Norway climbed by the Czech climber Adam Ondra. The grade of a route is generally defined by those who open the way and eventually challenged or modified by those who repeat it. At the crag this ladder is used as well as in multi-pitch sport routes. The mountaineering routes (where, for example, it is necessary to integrate the protections) generally use the alpine ladder with Roman numerals, possibly specifying the most difficult passage with a climbing ladder.
  • Finally, theartificial climbing use a ladder from A0 to A5 based on the difficulty of the climb and the precariousness of the anchors. A separate mention for A0: this value is similar toreset of a free passage or use of a nail / spit in which, by inserting a protection, one helps oneself to facilitate passage in free climbing. We often read that a route has passages of "7a not resettable", or to complete the route a 7a grade pass must be passed in free climbing. Alternatively, it can be read that" a route has 7a passages with mandatory 6b "indicating that the passage of 7a is resettable and the minimum degree to climb free is 6b.

 

For further information on the Via Ferrata, we suggest this guide produced by two authoritative members of the CAI and published by the UIAA in English.