Ferrata Ferrari at Roncalla

Introduction:

The Ferrata Adolfo Ferrari was inaugurated in 2004 and is an itinerary that runs along a ridge that leads up to Monte Roncalla (1683 m) between crags and pulpits. The itinerary is suitable for both beginners and experienced hikers who want to try out a fun climb avoiding the use of a self-insurance cable.

Starting location:

As often happens for routes that want to reach a summit, there are more possibilities as a starting point. In fact, it is possible to take the path aided both from the Genoese side (Rocca d'Aveto - 1280 m) and from the Piacenza side (Vincenzo Stoto Rifugio near the Crociglia Pass - 1468 m).

In this report we consider the climb from the Ligurian (Genoa) side. You will have to reach Santo Stefano d'Aveto and after the town take the road that steeply leads to Rocca d'Aveto. Park in the vicinity of the square from which the chair lift starts and take a paved road on the left.

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

The asphalt ends soon and after passing a gate continue towards the Tribolata Valley. We pass close to the walls of the Groppo Rosso until we come across yellow triangular signs. Before reaching the Tribolata Valley landslide, the first signs for the via ferrata begin to be seen. The ascent track is uncertain and needs attention. After a few minutes you reach the first rocks that will be covered free before reaching the start of the via ferrata (1h 15 'from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata:

The via ferrata starts by climbing a rocky spur where easy and moderate stretches alternate which we recommend to tackle by climbing using the cable only as a self-insurance. Following that we meet a chimney that in its initial part is slightly more difficult as a technical level. Subsequently some metal equipment facilitates the progression and leads us between rocks and saddles at the base of a slab. The slab has grips and slots ideal for climbing. At the end of this slab we are near the last rocky pulpit that presents two options:

• continue to the left and go around it via an aided path, or
• go straight up the exposed dihedral (key passage).

After this last rocky prominence we continue to the meadows that after a while lead us to the top of Monte Roncalla (40' from the start - about 2h from the parking lot).

Descent:

After the via ferrata there are two options:

• the quickest path to return to Rocca d'Aveto is to descend towards the nearby Groppo Rosso, continue towards the La Cipolla meadow and then to Rocca d'Aveto (1h 15' from the end of the Ferrata Adolfo Ferrari - 3h 15' from the parking lot) or
• undertake a longer but absolutely more satisfying route that includes the neighbor Ferrata Mazzocchi. For this itinerary, continue immediately to the right going down into the beech forest, ignoring the crossroads towards Prato Cipolla and Monte Bue. At the first crossroads, turn right again and the next to the left, always going down. We continue towards Passo Roncalla (45' from the end of the Ferrata Adolfo Ferrari - 2h 30' from the parking lot) where we will turn left towards Lago Nero and Fontana Gelata. The path is started downhill until two streams meet. Follow path 007 in the direction of the Sacchi Shelter. Once you reach the shelter, follow the signs for the neighbor Ferrata Mazzocchi, of greater difficulty than the Adolfo Ferrari (1h 30' from the end of the Ferrata Adolfo Ferrari - 3h 30' from the parking lot). The ferrata goes up the north face of the Groppo delle Ali (45' from the start - 4h 15' from the parking lot). Once you reach the top, go down the trail until you reach the ski slope that leads to Rifugio Prato Cipolla. After the hut, keep to the right going down towards Rocca d'Aveto (1h 15' from Groppo delle Ali - 5h 30' from the beginning).

Notes:

The Ferrata Adolfo Ferrari is an off-track itinerary that helps you discover an interesting corner of the Ligurian Apennines. The itinerary never presents sustained difficulties.

Opportunities:

It is possible to insert them in a loop tour with the nearby Ferrata Mazzocchi for a longer itinerary (around 6 hours including stops) but very satisfying and varied. Although as the crow flies they are not particularly distant, the Via Ferrata Deanna Orlandini and the Ferrata alla Pietra Nera they are actually quite distant for the type of roads. Could be combined in several days stay in the area.