Review of the Ferrata Aldo Roghel ascending to the Forcella delle Guglie. Ferrata positioned on the western side of the Vallon de Popera on the Veneto side rising between the bell towers of Popera and Stallata. Itinerary with good gap and medium technical difficulties with the exception of the intermediate stretch to be considered difficult and athletic.
The starting point of the itinerary is the Lunelli Hut reachable from the Belluno side of the Monte Croce di Comelico Pass that separates Sesto (Bolzano) with Comelico Superiore in Cadore (Belluno). Coming down from the pass, take Via Valgrande to the right, which we will follow until it ends or near the Lunelli Hut. Directions for Google Maps available here.
Leave the car at the Lunelli Hut (1950 m) and take path 101 which initially in a westerly direction then more and more towards the south rises steeply towards the Berti Hut (1950 m -1h from the car park). After a long series of switchbacks we reach a stream where we will hold the left following the sign there indicates our path (109, 110) leaving the path ascending to Rifugio Berti. We continue initially to the west then at a crossroads we will keep the left (signs) setting off for steep slopes at times a little landslide of the Lightning Gully until the start of the Ferrata Aldo Roghel (2350 m - 2h from the parking lot).
The Roghel Ferrata starts with a traverse ascending to the right marked by red arrows on the rock which leads us to a carving in the rock. We reach a circumvented edge which we ascend on a well-secured vertical wall. We go up a couple of rocky leaps and proceed without particular difficulties given the good holds in the direction of the gully to our right. We now walk along a ledge to the right reaching a chimney to be climbed making good use of the grips for hands and feet. We cover a new ledge to the right and reach the most challenging part of the via ferrata which coincides with the narrowing of the walls and the decided increase in the verticality of the route.
We find ourselves going up a vertical gully standing on the right side. Initially, climb a vertical wall for a few meters. We climb with a ramp to the right and face some rocks before descending slightly towards the base of the gully (often covered with snow even in the late season). We are at the key passage. We have to go up a wall about twenty yards away it is generally moist and in a overhanging section. Some brackets help the progression, which however remains challenging and not trivial. We end this challenging stretch and after a short ledge we go up in the right direction in a not difficult stretch but with poor chance of climbing and that therefore will tend to tire the arms. We reach a small terrace above a large boulder and we are ready tolast stretch uphilla della Ferrata Roghel.
We climb the first straight meters and then proceed diagonally towards the carving of the Forcella delle Guglie (2565 m) with which we finish the equipment (1h from the start - 3h total).
From the saddle begins a stretch of descent on a steep aided canal. The stretch it does not have single challenging passages but it is not to be underestimated. We turn to the right in the direction of the detrital valley below, rapidly losing height along the steep wall. Follow the last aided sections bend along the hillside for a few minutes in the detrital valley until a junction where the trip of the Roghel Ferrata ends (45 'from the Forcella delle Guglie - 3h 45' total).
The Roghel Ferrata ends at the junction between path 109 (Ferrata Roghel from Rifugio Berti) which continues downhill towards Giralba and path 110 which arrives from Rifugio Carducci along the Cengia Gabriella. At this point we will mainly have 2 options:
Obviously, there is also the third option to return backwards for the Ferrata Roghel traveled in the opposite direction.
The trip that includes the Roghel Ferrata is long and difficult, especially inside the gully uphill. Once you reach the Forcella delle Guglie, you must carefully consider whether you have the energy to complete the descent to the Carducci Hut or Giralba which, in both cases, makes the hike long and with a high gap. In the opposite case, it is better to go back down the Rogata Ferrata. Itinerary to follow with stable weather.
The so-called Sesto Dolomites they are a network of paths and via ferratas. The itinerary described in option 2 above includes 3 via ferratas. If desired they can be combined, extending the itinerary to several days, the Ferrata Casarà which starts from the Carducci Hut and reaches the Forcella dei Toni as it is possible in the way of the return to extend the itinerary going up to the Croda Rossa di Sesto from Via Ferrata Zandonella or from the Ferrata dei Costoni.
On the Comelico valley, starting from the Lunelli mountain hut, you can climb the recent Ferrata Bepi Martini at Colle Colesei.
Approach: 2:00 h
Ferrata: 1:45 h
Itinerary: 7:00 h
Via Ferrata gap: 240 m
Route difference: 997 m
Max altitude: 2565 m
Length: 3.9 Km