Via Ferrata Benini

Introduction:

The Ferrata Benini is the northward continuation of the Ferrata delle Bocchette Alte and the most recent section of the Via delle Bocchette which crosses the Brenta Dolomites. The itinerary connects the Grosté Pass with the Bocca di Tucket where the Bocchette Altes end. The itinerary is long and like the other sections of the Via delle Bocchette, it is characterized by long ups and downs, exposed ledges with breathtaking views. The technical difficulties of the itinerary are medium and it can be undertaken in both directions.

Starting location:

The Benini Ferrata runs between the Grostè Pass and the Bocca di Tucket under which the Tucket Hut rises. Although you can travel in both directions, this report presents the itinerary from the Grostè Pass to Bocca di Tucket with subsequent descent to the Tucket Hut and return to the Grostè Pass.

Keeping this itinerary in mind, the starting point will be the top station of the cable car that connects Campo Carlo Magno with Passo Grostè. To reach the cable car station in the valley, go up from Madonna di Campiglio continuing from the town center towards Folgarida until you notice the large parking lot on the left for the cable cars. Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

The Benini Ferrata starts at Passo Grostè. From the top station of the cable car that ends near Rifugio Stoppani we will have to climb in a moderate slope towards the north east towards Passo Grostè following the CAI 305 trail markers and the signs on the stones. We turn south towards theimpressive Cima Grostè. We continue now on a comfortable path where we meet a crossroads (CAI 311) where a path descends towards the east towards the Graffer Hut (30' from the top station of the cable car). We continue now uphill ignoring the crossroads for the normal Cima Grostè and after a few rocky leaps we begin to go around the east wall of Cima Grostè in the direction of a saddle already visible in front of us. Climb up a last steep section with red signs and we arrive at sign which indicates the start of the Benini Ferrata where the Cima Grostè wall begins to turn south (1h from the top station of the cable car).

If we wish not to use the cable car, we will have to climb along the 301 (2h) that goes up from Campo Carlo Magno to the Stoppani going up 600m in altitude.

Via Ferrata:

Let's begin by going around the wall of Cima Grostè with an aided first section that helps us pass an exposed edge. After this first equipment we continue on one ledge free of difficulties and aids. We continue on the ledge in the direction of Bocca dei Camosci where we face an aided stretch in more sloping descent. Looking straight at us it is possible to see along the ledge with which we will arrive under Cima Falkner. In this section we start one long upward ledge where it is initially narrower then it gradually widens, making the wire rope less necessary, except as a handrail. Continuing along the ledge this sometimes gets thinner making theexposure tangible without substantial increases in difficulty except in sporadic cases where some protrusions of the rock require attention and to lower ourselves. We pass the deviation for the normal ascent route to Cima Falkner (40' from the Benini Ferrata round trip with grade I passes) marked with black writing on rock and we follow the ledge that now turns south towards the Campanile of Vallesinella and obvious glacier of Cima Brenta. Let us now begin a section characterized by pieces of aided climbing wheels. This is the most technical and exposed part of the Ferrata Benini (1h 30' from the start - 2h 30' total).

When we have lost a hundred meters we continue along one ledge that runs the lower part of the Campanile of Vallesinella and, as already happened along the route, the width of the ledge varies and with it also the sense of exposure. Once around an edge we arrive near a gully to cross and beyond which we ascend some easy metal frames and then continue along a ledge with Lake Molveno in front of us. We then reach Bocca Alta di Vallesinella (2897 m), a saddle where we pass from the eastern to the western side passing under Cima Sella. Looking back, we see the vague summit of Cima Falkner. We now descend on a stretch of snowfield not particularly leaning with a magnificent view of the Cima Brenta glacier. We continue on this stretch following the cairns (be careful in case of fog) until you reach the junction for the Dallagiacoma Trail (2h 15' from the start) which is the fastest and least complex variant for reaching the Tucket Hut (1h). In this itinerary we ignore this deviation and continue on the last stretch, which is also the most challenging, of the Ferrata Benini.

In this last stretch we go around the western wall of Cima Sella and from above we see Bocca di Tucket below us. We will have to go down for aided sections up to reach the carving in the rock with which we will finish the itinerary. We are now in a rather adrenaline-filled stretch where we will use 5 metal ladders downhill and some ledges connecting together to descend to a last short traverse to go uphill and we have come to Bocca di Tucket (2647 m) where the Benini Ferrata ends (3h from the start - 4h from the station and the cable car).

Descent:

From the bocca di Tucket we will have to go down along the homonymous one Vedretta towards the Tucket Hut (2272 m - 45 'da Bocca di Tucket). This trait can be treacherous based on snow and ice. To proceed in total safety, we recommend crampons and ice axes. We continue downhill on the snowfield looking to the right two stone cairns that will show us when to get out of it, thus avoiding some crevasses that are present in the lower part of the glacier. Then we start on the real path meeting in succession on the left the saddle for the Sosat Aided Path and shortly after the graft from the Dallagiacoma Path. We remain on the right side of the valley and reach the Tucket Hut.

To return to the upstream season of the cable car to the Grostè we will have to follow the CAI path 316 which in north direction takes us to the cable car without particular difficulties (1h 30 'from the shelter Tucket - 2h 15' from the end of the Benini Ferrata - 6h 15 'total).

Notes:

The Ferrata Benini is the most recent section of the various via ferrata in the Brenta outlets. The itinerary does not present particular technical difficulties, mainly stretching out on ledges except for two vertical sections near the Bocca di Tucket and the Campanile of Vallesinella. An aspect that often characterizes this stretch of the Brenta Dolomites is fog and this requires attention especially in the section that goes around Cima Sella where the signs are mainly made of stone cairns.

Opportunities:

The Benini Ferrata is the last stretch of the Via delle Bocchette and as such also includes the Ferrata delle Bocchette Alte, the Via Ferrata Bocchette Centrali, the Via Ferrata Brentari and Aided path dell'Ideale. Walking the entire route at high altitude is one of the most beautiful Alte Vie in the entire Italian Alpine region. If you want to travel, you will need to break the itinerary over several days and sleep at high altitude in one of the shelters we will meet.

If instead of heading south, we wanted to stay around the Grosté Pass, the Aided path Vidi or the Aided path of the Palete and the Via Ferrata of the Val Gelada can be valid option for a long multi-day itinerary in the northern area of the Brenta Dolomites.

Among the other via ferratas that can be followed in the Brenta Dolomites we also indicate the Via Ferrata Oliva Detassis and the Via Ferrata Castiglioni.

Further info:

• Looking for an Alpine Guide to climb this route? We have selected some Guides specialized in Vie Ferrate, click here.
• Are you at the first experience in Via Ferrata? Read ours Complete Guide to Via Ferratas.
• Join our community on Facebook: the Official Ferrate365 page and Group to find climb partners.
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