Review of the long and famous Ferrata degli Alleghesi at Monte Civetta in the Dolomites of Zoldo. Magnificent but challenging itinerary in terms of length, height difference and duration as well as for the return that can take place through the normal route (aided) or the demanding Ferrata Tissi.
To start the Ferrata degli Alleghesi there are more starting points depending on the type of itinerary you want to take. We suggest two:
The report will take into consideration option 1. If you want to choose the second option, we recommend reading the Ferrata Tissi report and changing the approach to reach the Ferrata degli Alleghesi start.
From near the Palafavera Hut where we parked, go up following the signs for path 564 which gently climbs up into the woods on a narrow road to Malga Pioda (1850 m - approx. 1h). It is possible to go up to the Col de la Traversa by chairlift from Palafavera, saving about 400 m in altitude. Continue uphill keeping the path 556 which leads to the clear indications Rifugio Sonino Coldai (2132 m - ca 1h 30 'from the parking lot).
From the hut we go up towards Forcella Coldai until we come to a crossroads. On the left, the path 557 - called Sentiero Tivan - that without going up too steeply will lead us to the start of the Ferrata Alleghesi. We climb up to bend to the right (east) and go up a gully on debris bottom with short sections aided up to reach one more exposed piece of rope on rocks under the Tivan Wall which is the prelude tostart della Ferrata degli Alleghesi (1h 30 'from Rifugio Coldai - approx 3h from the parking lot).
The attachment is on a series of metal brackets on a vertical slab. We go in cross to the right on some metal pegs before going up a new set of vertical brackets and then on long metal pegs traverse to the left. We cross horizontally and again vertically on a long series of metal brackets. We quickly gain altitude and exposure by reaching one metal ladder in sustained exposure. We are now inside a vertical couloir but full of good holds for hands and feet on good rock that they will favor a climb by climbing helped in a couple of points by metal pegs on the right side. We leave by this groove and following the abundant red signs bend to the left on a slab in direction of a second gully climbing like the previous one. Go up tointerior of the groove On the right side using excellent grips and theabundant series of metal brackets and let's get out of this groove exploiting some metal frames present.
This first section of the long via ferrata ends and we are now in a more open environment with our destination visible. We begin to rise a series of slabs that tend to have no holds and smooth where we will climb at times in adherence and at times using metal pegs. The view now opens up through theimpressive Punta Tissi on the opposite side with Lake Coldai almost a thousand meters below our feet. This is a relatively easy stretch of the road with a few short vertical jumps and some transfer sections. We reach a ledge that with some passages devoid of substantial difficulties there leads to the ridge. We cover a section of the ridge and therefore we remain under the wire on the left side in an aided and exposed ledge.
After this easy stretch we meet a new stretch of climb on rocks and rather challenging slabs where it will not be easy to climb because of the decidedly smooth rock. We continue uphill alternating smooth stretches with some very well set and easily climbable. We leave this stretch of climb on a wide ridge with rocky jumps. We follow the track paying attention not to move stones but also to any snow-covered sections that lead us to the last section of the route.
This last section requires a good deal of concentration rather than the difficulty of the steps due to the fatigue accumulated in the long climb. We find ourselves having to climb a last leap of about a hundred meters before concluding at the summit cross. Let's start with a panoramic terrace with a wonderful view of the Pelmo with one wall full of holds but definitely vertical. It then bends to the left and they are reached some vertical leaps which again lead us to traverse in strong exposure to the left. The traverse is not demanding although exposed. We bend to the right again to gain the last few meters with a series of passages on smooth rock that could require some traction. We use the last energies and you reach the ridge. The rather wide ridge with clear trace continues to the left. Remarkable the view on the east side towards Alleghe with a height difference of over a thousand meters under our eyes. Continue for about 5 minutes on the ridge reaching the summit cross of the Civetta (3220 m - 3h 30 from the start - 6h 30 'total).
From the Civetta summit cross we will notice a track with red marks that descends on the east side towards the underlying Rifugio Torrani. The hut (20' from the summit), visible almost immediately, can be reached by path without difficulty. From the hut we follow the track that goes down until we reach a signposted junction: on the right descends the demanding Ferrata Tissi that leads us to Forcella delle Sasse while to the left the normal route also goes down. In this report we assume the descent from the normal route.
It is worth starting by saying that the descent by the normal route is a demanding descent that requires maximum concentration. Follow down the various red signs that soon lead us to a first step of climbing on a chimney no protections. The passage is not prohibitive but requires a firm foot for the descent. We continue the descent along the road until we meet on a small balcony the first section of rope mainly usable as a handrail. We continue the descent meeting some steps that lead us downhill on a slabau from which the main difficulties of the descent begin.
Let's start one down now long series of rocks followed by a more challenging vertical leap. It takes a minimum of attention to look for the supports that are also present. Now let's continue downhill on one inclined slab under a rocky roof which tends to be rather wet due to the water that comes down from the snowfield. We continue the descent meeting some challenging passages we descend on slab followed by short chimneys. We continue the descent up slabs and ledges until you reach the snowfield where in fact the difficulties end and with them the metal equipment. The wall just traveled is remarkable downhill.
At this point we walk to the left the Tivan path that runs along the eastern walls of the Civetta until we reach the point where we left the path during the approach to take the via ferrata. From this stretch, continue backwards along the approach path through the Coldai Hut and then downhill to Palafavera (4h from the Civetta summit - a total of 10h 30 ').
The Ferrata degli Alleghesi is one of the most iconic itineraries in the Dolomites. The technical level of the route is moderate and this makes it one of the beaten paths for the panorama of the Dolomiti Bellunesi. However, the length of the itinerary is noteworthy as is the difference in height and requires excellent training, eventually breaking up the itinerary in two days. The via ferrata is in good condition and the equipment is abundant and present wherever the difficulties are sustained. The panorama and the environment in which the route extends is remarkable.
La via ferrata degli Alleghesi permette di salire su un monte - il Civetta - che per decenni fu un banco di prova per gli alpinisti mondiali. Dalla sua vetta, la vista è tra le più belle delle dolomiti spaziando dalle Alpi Giulie all'Adamello. La salita tuttavia è lunga e impegnativa come lo fu la progettazione e la costruzione di questo itinerario. La Ferrata deglio Alleghesi infatti richiese un lavoro enorme per l'epoca: i lavori iniziarono nel 1949 e terminarono solo nel 1966.
As mentioned above, the Ferrata Alleghesi is often combined with the nearby Ferrata Tissi, following the latter downhill because it is shorter despite being more difficult. Remaining in the area of the Civetta there are other important and interesting via ferratas generally of a challenging level: the Ferrata Gianni Costantini to the Moiazza and the Ferrata Fiamme Gialle in Pelsa. Moving towards Agordo, you can reach the starting point of the challenging route ascending to the Agner with the Ferrata Stella Alpina. Descending in the direction of Belluno we meet other interesting ferratas, between the Via Ferrata Sperti, Marino Guardiano and Zacchi.