The Ferrata dell'Amicizia (literally "The Friendship Ferrata") at Cima Sat is a long and tiring itinerary that goes back up from the lake to the obvious summit of Cima Sat. The via ferrata is characterized by a series of long stairs that go up the most challenging and overhanging sections of the road. Attention to the heat that can be encountered in summer, recommended in mid-seasons.
The starting point of the itinerary is Riva del Garda, Trento. We need to go in the direction of the western Garda road that from Riva leads to Limone. Near the Monte Oro Pay Parking we will see a CAI sign that goes up. We will have to find parking in that area and walk to the CAI pole.
Directions for Google Maps available here.
The signpost will show us the CAI 404 uphill path that after a few bends leads us to cross another path. Keep to the left and continue towards a small Venetian fortress. Shortly before the fortress on the right starts the CAI 404 path which soon leads us to a forest road which we take to the left. We continue on the forest road up to a new saddle that goes right to Capanna Santa Barbara (560 m). We continue south from Capanna Santa Barbara following the path until we find on the left a detour for CAI 404B which soon leads us start of the ferrata (1h 15 'from the parking lot).
Right under the metal sign of the via ferratabegins the metal equipment that leads us diagonally to the left and then on easy wall uphill for a couple of meters to reach a rocky path where it is visible Cima Sat where the via ferrata will end. We climb a couple of rocky jumps and then to the left we climb a leaning wall. They end the equipment again and walk along a path. We meet a new section similar to the previous one with well-set rocks. We reach a small terrace beyond which the ascent continues alternating rocks with some more vertical sections assisted by brackets. The ascent tends to proceed in zig zag with short ledges and sometimes climb to the right, others to the left. We continue on a new stretch of path reaching one of the most characteristic stretches of the route: a long metallic ladder of over 40 meters that will help us to climb a long and slightly overhanging wall. After ascending the long ladder , you cross two meters horizontally on a metal bar and climb up a second metal staircase. After the aerial climb of the stairs we are on a rocky slabau with a wonderful view behind us. Ahead os us the next sections of the via ferrata are already visible with two long metal ladders.
The equipment ends for a short stretch of easy rocky stepsand we reach a vertical slab. This rises towards the left with the help of some brackets and on the left side begins the third ladder that climbs a dihedral. At the end of the staircase we cross to the right and resume the vertical ascent on well appurtenant rock. We follow an easy traverse to the right beyond which we ascend a short jump of 3 meters with the help of some brackets. We are now in a short stretch of aided path until we reach the fourth long ladder (70 m) that goes up a smooth wall. Although not difficult, this stretch is decidedly exposed. We conclude this stretch and we are on a panoramic terrace where we take a narrow ledge to the left. In short we come to an easy chimney easy chimney to be climbed in agile climbing in the first part while the upper part is more difficult proceeding diagonally to the left. We go up this wall with the help of some brackets. We leave this wall and go around a stone on a ledge that leads us to a short stretch of exposed but not difficult descent. We are now on an aided ledge and after a couple more of metal ladders then a last rocky jump we are reaching the characteristic peak flag (1260 m - 1h 45 'from the start - 3h total) of Cima Sat.
At the end of the ferrata we will have to descend in a westerly direction until we reach a short aided stretch to a helicopter landing pad. We continue on the path to a crossroads where we can evaluate two descent options:
The Ferrata dell'Amicizia is a decidedly aerial ferrata with many exposed sections and whoever follows this itinerary must keep this aspect in mind. With this in mind the via ferrata does not present technically difficult sections with the only passage of medium difficulty in the last chimney before reaching the summit. At the beginning of 2018 the stairs are in a not perfect state of maintenance being fairly mobile and although not dangerous they give the impression of poor stability. Definitely an trip to do with good physical preparation given the high gap and the long return path. Carefull in the summer to the heat.
Although the ascent route to Cima Sat with the Ferrata dell'Amicizia fills a high gap and probably will not opt for another aided itinerary, there are many Via Ferrata at Lake Garda. If you wanted the area is rich in other routes among which in the area of Cima Capi you can opt for the Ferrata Susatti at Cima Capi to which to match in descent the Aided path Foletti and then the path of the Laste. Near the Laste path there is the Ferrata at Cima Rocca. Moving to the Passo di Tremalzo we can follow the Aided path Mora Pellegrini to Monte Corno.
Not far from Riva del Garda going up towards Trento we could opt for the easy aided paths of the Cavre or Colodri or the Ferrata Castel Drena in the gorge of the Rio Sallagoni. For very experienced enthusiasts you can go up to the Val di Sarche to take the difficult route Via Ferrata Pisetta. Moving to the north we will be able to follow the Ferrata to the Rio Ruzza waterfall or the Ferrata Artpinistica in Preore.
If you are looking for an accomodation close to this route, we recommendAppartamento Via Ferratain the historical center of Mori. Apartment of 103 sqm, 5 beds and 1 cot. Follow this link for more info and Federico's contact details.
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EhiThink
11/11/2020 at 20:59Terribile! È l’aggettivo che mi viene in mente se penso a questa “ferrata”.
Se si è alle prime armi e si ha poca confidenza con la verticalità/esposizione può anche risultare carina, ma se si cerca una ferrata arrampicabile…state lontani da sta cosa, perché troverete solo scale e sentieri dove si cammina normalmente.
Francesca Anni
03/09/2020 at 20:55Ferrata abbastanza bella, molte scale verticali e avvicinamento abbastanza lungo. Il giro nel complesso è molto bello e il panorama merita davvero tanto. Lago di Garda come sempre spettacolare.
paolo-3889
30/08/2020 at 07:45Fatta a Agosto 2020.
Non è stata una gran esperienza se non per il panorama strepitoso.
Volendola definire in sintesi direi:
Arrampicata lunga e difficile (la categorizzazione la giustifico non tanto per la durezza della ferrata, quanto per l’impegno fisico della camminata, e la lunghezza delle scale).
Cominci la ferrata che sei già stanco per una salita su sentieri di sassi interminabili.
Pochi tratti con cavo quasi tutto arrampicate su sentieri di sassi.
Un rientro lungo e noioso nel bosco dietro (davanti non abbiamo provato).
Tante scale in condizioni discutibili, c’è scritto ‘portata 3 persone’, capite che se in una scala di 70 metri ci possono salire solo 3 persone, se la gente lo rispettasse ci sarebbe una coda infinita.
Se non vi portate dietro una montagna d’acqua finite disidratati.
Effettivamente le scale sollevate dalla parete danno un senso di vuoto, unica cosa davvero ‘adrenalinica’.
cammo75
20/07/2020 at 12:42Percorsa Domenica 19/07/2020, decisamente la sconsiglio nei periodi caldi; completamente esposta al sole e riparata da vento, è decisamente “disidratante”.
Chiamarla ferrata lo trovo non corretto essendo, di fatto, un ripido sentiero che, a gradoni, risale il versante ovest di Riva del Garda facendo guadagnare metri di dislivello velocemente per poi trovarsi ai piedi della vetta dove il raggiungimento avviene grazie a delle scale.
A parte queste lunghe, obsolete e maltenute scale, non ci sono passaggi tecnici, difficili o impegnativi per definirla una ferrata moderatamente difficile; non vorrei che venisse classificata così calcolando il grado di stanchezza con il quale si arriva all’attacco, ma sarebbe un’altra valutazione che non c’entra con la difficoltà.
A mio avviso l’unica nota positiva è che per tutta la salita si può godere della vista di un bello e vastò scorcio che spazia dalla parte alta del Lago di Garda, ai nostri piedi Riva e Torbole con alle spalle la vasta piana.
Io rientro (io ho percorso il 418, 402 ed infine il 404) è lungo, poco panoramicò e monotono.
ATTENZIONE colgo l’occasione per segnalare che le scale si presentano in condizioni pessime, diversi porta cavo sono rotti e questo, in caso di caduta, comporterebbe tratti di scorrimento dei moschettoni piuttosto lunghi prima di far presa.
Carlo Moraldo
10/07/2019 at 15:26August 15th 2018 ... Not really the ideal day for a via ferrata (given the heat). Significant physical effort on these wobbly, obsolete and rusty iron stairs.
In my opinion, after 30 years they should be dismantled (sectioned with the flexible hose), mostly as a matter of safety, to recreate a new path that follows more the compliance of the rock and exploits its creeks.
steby11
03/07/2019 at 19:43long and tiring journey, take 6 hours. beautiful view with partial view of the lake. simple grating (all stairs) apart from the exposure but boring as nothing climbing.
tommy.76
24/04/2019 at 11:14Simple and a bit boring via ferrata ... no difficulty apart from the exposure on very long and crooked stairs