Introduction:
The Ferrata degli Angeli is a spectacular route that allows you to reach the summit of the island of Tavolara on the Tyrrhenian coast of Sardinia. The ferrata goes up from Punta la Mandria and rides all the ridges that span the western side of the island. The view is breathtaking and absolutely worth a visit.
Update August 2018: the Ferrata degli Angeli is dismantled in its original start. The route takes place on a different itinerary. Follow the tracks on the spot.
Starting location:
The starting point of the itinerary is near Punta della Mandria on the island of Tavolara in front of Olbia and Gallura. Take the boat from Porto San Paolo that will quickly take us to the island (for times click here). Once on the island at the Spalmatore beach, follow the obvious path that will take us to Punta la Mandria where the Ferrata degli Angeli will start.
Directions for Google Maps available here.
Approach:
Once in Punta la Mandria, follow a path to the east that climbs steeply up the walls. Following the path you reach a steep stretch with the help of a rope that allows you to climb back up and reach the slab that indicates the start of the Ferrata degli Angeli (20' from the arrival by boat).
Via Ferrata:
From the slab follow the red arrow that makes us get around an edge where the metal equipment starts. Attached is a stepped oblique ramp which ends with a vertical wall in which there are some holds. At the end of the wall we see a first section on a wooden trunk - a characteristic of this route - which allows us to walk along a first horizontal traverse. The view of the sea and the Sardinian coast starts to be exciting but this should not distract you from the difficulties of the route. You enter a rocky ravine and climb up an exposed edge where a pair of metal equipment help the progression. Climb back up the edge and reach a traverse where again a trunk supports the feet and then continues the ascent in a decidedly characteristic stretch: a ladder made of juniper wood traces a vertical wall back up completely. This section is also secured by a sturdy chain. Once the ladder is finished turn to the left on a horizontal traverse in which it is necessary to pull on the cable, given the few grips present. Climb diagonally in a not difficult section but without foot holds. Climb up a short vertical wall and finish the first section of the ferrata. The cables momentarily end.
Follow the path and climb some rocks with red signs. After a few minutes of progression between the rocks, we come back to the start of the cable for the second section of the ferrata that will develop mainly on the ridge. Immediately we climb a first wall diagonally through a not difficult traverse. This stretch takes us to the ridge where we will initially be on the right side just below the wire. The progression is fun and the view is wonderful. Continue up and down along the rocky ridges of the ridge. You then come to a dihedral of a few meters that you climb easily until you reach a small terrace. From the terrace, turn right and continue diagonally on a flight of steps. The cable ends and proceeds uphill rocks to the summit cross (approx. 2 from the start). It is advisable not to remove the harness as the return path includes aided sections.
Descent:
At the end of the Ferrata degli Angeli, continue along the ridge in the direction of Punta Cannone, which can be reached in about 30 minutes. Near a saddle between the Sella di Lucca and Punta Cannone you will notice an aided downhill path with a red signpost. Follow this aided path downhill and return to the beach (1h 30 'from the end of the ferrata - about 4h total).
Notes:
The ferrata is magnificent from a landscape point of view and, although not difficult, it should not be underestimated. Exposure is present throughout and the difference in height required requires good fitness. In difficult stretches there are metal equipment that help. In some sections there are some singular juniper trunks that act as a support. The rope is small in diameter but well stretched. In a more exposed passage the rope is flanked by a sturdy chain.
Opportunities:
The island of Tavolara offers some opportunities for climbing on long routes in a suggestive environment. However there are no other climbing routes. If you want another via ferrata you can go from Porto San Paolo to the Ferrata of Badde Pentumas, the Ferrata of the Castle of Medusa, the Via Ferrata Giorrè, the Ferrata Regina or the Ferrara del Cabirol. Moving to the south instead we meet the Ferrata of Gutturu Xeu and Pan di Zucchero in the province of Carbonia Iglesias.
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Massimiliano Mercuriali
02/09/2020 at 12:19Attenzione! La ferrata nella parte iniziale è stata rimossa, come riferisce la relazione di Tony Bayon del 2019, in questi tratti, per procedere, occorre capacità e attrezzatura completa da arrampicata (corde, rinvii, friend, nuts, staffe etc).
Dopo aver superato il primo risalto di roccia occorre individuare la traccia di sentiero, in direzione est allontanandosi dalla cresta, che porta alla ferrata del cristo superando il vecchio secondo tratto smantellato.
La ferrata del cristo si sviluppa, più o meno sul filo, della cresta lato est.
Raggiunto il cristo in croce si procede camminando per tracce di sentiero, non sempre segnalato, sino a raggiunge prima la cima la punta di Lucca e poi cima Cannone.
Per la via discesa ci sono due possibilità:
1) dalla via normale sotto la cima Cannone, attrezzata con funi acciaio e corde nei tratti più delicati e sentiero.
2) con due calate in corda doppia (anelli in loco occorre corda da almeno 80m) sotto la punta di Lucca e sentiero
Ribadisco che i sentieri non sono ben segnalati, solo a tratti si trova qualche bollo rosso e qualche ometto di pietra, per procedere occorre essere dotati di senso dell’orientamento, capacità di muoversi in ambiente e del buon senso alpinistico cercando sempre la via più facile nel difficile.
Consiglio vivamente a chi non ha queste capacità di affidarsi ad accompagnatori, conoscitori della zona, esperti e qualificati.
Toni Bayon Platel
08/06/2019 at 16:28Realment és un indret excepcional, roques, aigua i verticalitat.
Vàrem tenir a mica de problemes to find the inert of the ferrada, ja que la primera part està sense cable, for sort encara estant els parabolts i vàrem poder progressar muntant a tiradeta, fins que vàrem intuir a tram de cable que vàrem to follow for poder tornar els punts de colors vermells for sobre de l'escala i cadena tant característic; a depart from Aquest punt tot goes quadrar.
Vàrem will enter the Crist le Lbre de Registre for the Ferrada Nova.
Ara varem resseguir the arest always que ens it was possible for poder apreciar espectacular panoràmica i contrasts the entorn de l'illa fins at the Punta Cannone amb the Mare de Déu en el punt més alt, el qual vàrem aprofitar for menjar i beure durant an Estonian.
Vàrem desfer a tram of our itineraries to trobar the normal way baixar for a tram ferrat amb cable, cordes fixes en els trams més complicated the retornar el f our punt de sortida to Cal TONINO.
Ens va agradar força, molt is interesting and an activitat que quadra totalment amb la nostra forma de fer.
Estem segur que ritornm ara aquesta vegada a hivern.
Ivan Pegorari
29/03/2019 at 15:30Via ferrata with incredible beauty and context, I believe the most beautiful I've ever done in many years as a mountain guide and many mountain climbers. Path as beautiful as others but dreamlike context. Too bad it is NOT a path approved and professionally aided. We hope that the local authorities will take care of bringing it up to standard.