Review of Ferrata Anita Goitan to the Jof Fuart. Long itinerary departing from Sella Nevea, climb to the Corsi Rifugio and scenic route from east to west including ascent to the summit of Jof Fuart. Ring itinerary with return to the Forcella Lavinal dell'Orso.
We propose the Anita Goitan Ferrata route in east-west direction including the ascent to the Jof Fuart. The Guido Corsi Rifugio, located in the basin south of the Jof Fuart, is considered as a point of support for the itinerary. The hut can be reached from many points - Sella Nevea, along the road between Sella Nevea and Cave del Predil, from Cave del Predil itself. Let us assume the departure from Sella Nevea as you follow the complete itinerary to reach the Forcella Lavinial dell'Orso and you are in a convenient position to return to Sella Nevea along a very scenic path.
Having said that, to reach Sella Nevea you must reach the town of Chiusaforte, located 20 minutes from the Carnia Tolmezzo exit in the A23. Once in Chiusaforte follow the signs for Sella Nevea towards the east. We pass the bridge and drive 20 km to the village. Once in the village, we follow to the left until we reach a large parking lot with some CAI poles where we leave the car. Directions for Google Maps available here.
Leave the car in the parking lot (about 1200m) and follow the CAI 625 trail uphill, which goes up rather decidedly in the woods towards the Casera di Cregnedul which we reach without any particular worries. We continue uphill going to bend to the right to go around Monte La Plagnota and cutting its south-east slope on the hillside towards the Passo degli Scalini (2022 m). We pass the step e we cut a valley between meadows and pebbles up to meet a saddle: on the left path 626 descends from the Forcella Lavinial dell'Orso. We will use this path for the return. We continue straight, losing slightly altitude with the narrowing path. To our right the path 628 towards Grantagar hut. We ignore this crossroads and we bypass the rocky spallon of the Campanile of Villico where the are still visible locations of the Great War literally dug into it. Once around the shoulder we are in the basin where the Guido Corsi Rifugio (1874 m - 2h 30 'from the parking lot) which we reach without difficulty. In 2019 the Corsi Rifugio is closed for renovation.
We continue for less than 5 minutes and meet a signed second saddle:
We continue in steep ascent on a mixture of pebbles and lawn under the impressive walls of the amphitheater. The path begins to climb with the first sections on the ledge to which follows a rocky gully and after a further stretch between stones and meadows we reach a new crossroads (2165 m - 40 'from the hut):
We now climb by bending to the left between rock and meadow and need to pay attention to the red marks to reach a new groove with some rocks until you reach the Forcella Riofreddo where there is thestart of the Ferrata Anita Goitan (2240 m - 1h from the Corsi Rifugio - 3h 30 'from the car park). Madonna and commemorative slab dating back to the Great War. On the north side of the saddle we see some rusty cables in poor condition. Once upon a time the path leading to the Pellarini Rifugio came down from that gully. As indicated on the rock, this path is no longer viable.
Let's start by going up a steep rocky gully not aided with some rocks at the top. We follow the wide trace and the red signs going up to the left in the direction of an obvious carving in the rock - attention to the bottom of gravel not always stable. Let's now go on one aided ledge with increasing exposure to the left. We cover the exposed ledge and then exit uphill to the left with some easy steps on rocks. We continue reaching a aided groove. We go back up and continue on a new ledge until we reach the base of a new groove which leads us to an obvious saddle. On the opposite side we see the Conca di Valbruna.
From the saddle follow the directions and we continue to climb some aided sections with which we initially climb vertically on a small wall and then one ramp to the right of the saddle. Still on an aided and not difficult stretch, we go up around a shoulder with now in view the silhouette of the Mother of the Chamois. To reach it we have to go down two aided gullies but on a slippery surface. Pay attention to the descent of both. let's begin going down a few meters and we continue on the track. Let's go down the first one, let's walk a short section of connection and then we go down the second gut. We reach the couloir that separates the two peaks along the route.
We cross the canal and begin to climb determinedly on aided sections towards the Mother of the Chamois. Let's go up a first section aided supported and then one aided vertical slab with solid metal brackets. We continue in again very climbing vertical leaving behind us the couloir just crossed. Back up the vertical sections we are now on a panoramic stretch of path that goes around the Mother of the Chamois on a wide and comfortable ledge. The view is wonderful among spiers (here the"Needle of the Chamois"), pinnacles in the vicinity and the whole chain of the Julian in the distance. Under clearly visible the Rifugio Corsi left about 2 hours earlier. Some features of the long ledge are aided in the points shown. The long ledge ends and, after a stretch of connecting path, we reach the normal route for the Jof Fuart that rises from the Forcella di Mosè (2350 m - 1h 30 'from the start - 2h 30' from the hut - 5h total).
At this point the climb for the Jof Fuart is optional. To follow it keep right in climb following the signs and cairns in stone we reach the fore with cross and madonna e not far away the highest point of the Jof Fuart (2666 m - 45 'from the junction - 5h 45' total).
To continue the itinerary we retrace our steps downhill up to the saddle and we continue on the Ferrata Anita Goitan. We hold the right in southwest direction on path that cut the mountain and at the crossroads and we begin a descent some steep sections of which only some aided on gutter, slab and ledge until you reach the Mosè saddle (2271 m - 1h from the summit) with its characteristic pulpit. At this point it is possible to go down to the nearby Corsi hut. We we continue on the path which starts uphill again with someone short aided sections getting closer to Top of Castrein where they are evident many war debris. There are stations, housings, shelters, stairways and walkways on what he evidently was a point of observation very important on the border. With short but exposed deviation it is possible to reach Castrein peaks. We do not consider it.
We now begin the descent that takes place on steep grassy slopes on which to pay close attention. We then reach the end of the Goitan Ferrata at the Forcella Lavinal dell'Orso (2138 m - 4h 30 'from the start including the ascent to the Jof Fuart - 8h total).
From the crossroads we keep the left in descent along the valley which without difficulties us leads to the junction on path 625 route in the approach (15 'from the end of the via ferrata). Keep to the right and walk back along the path already traveled. We reach the Passo degli Scalini and we go down to Sella Nevea then to the parking lot (2h 30 'from the end of the ferrata - about 11h total).
The Anita Goitan Ferrata or Aided path is a very beautiful itinerary from a landscape point of view with a special point of view of the Jof Fuart, the Jof Montasio and the Canin group. The itinerary is exposed but never technically difficult except for a couple of downhill passages near the Madre dei Camosci. The climb is long, however, and fills a considerable difference in height as well as a not inconsiderable length so it is advisable to break it by two days possibly staying at the Corsi Rifugio. Beware of chamois and ibex, present in large quantities along the way, which tend to move stones. Equipment in good condition.
La ferrata è dedicata alla memoria di Anita Goitan che fu un'alpinista e sciatrice triestina. La via è stata terminata nel 1973 ad opera del CAI di Trieste.
The Anita Goitan Aided path is a beautiful itinerary that is ideally broken up into two days to reduce the height difference on approach. There are some interesting options for other routes in the area. Going along a different approach path you could climb the Aided path King of Saxony or in a multi-day itinerary on the nearby Jof di Montasio you could go along the Via Ferrata Amalia at Jof Montasio, the Aided path Leva or the Aided path Ceria Merlone. Not far as the crow flies, however on the slope of the Val Dogna, you can climb to the Monte Cavallo with the long trip that includes the Ferrata Norina.