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Review of the Route
Introduction:
Near Civago in the high Appenino Reggiano was the Barranco del Dolo via ferrata inaugurated in 2015. The via ferrata goes up a 200 meter rock blade that from the bed of the Dolo torrent goes up to the road that leads to the town. The ferrata takes place in a wonderful environment with the river behind it and climb a rock formation with a good degree of difficulty resulting in a satisfying albeit brief trip.
Start point:
A few kilometers before reaching the town of Civago, after a bend there is a sign indicating the beginning of the approach path. Unfortunately, the sign is more visible for those arriving from Civago than for those arriving from Reggio Emilia. However, to intuition you can see the open space in which to park the cars and then take the path.
Directions for Google Maps available here.
Approach:
After leaving the car on the narrow parking lot, you start an unusual approach. In stead of hikiing up, you will hike downhill by following a track after a large sign. You walk downhill following many white signs on trees and a steep track bring us within 20 minutes next to a creek and now again following the white signs of thestart of the via ferrata literally a couple of meters above the water.
Via Ferrata:
The ferrata begins diagonally and it gains slowly altitude until you reach a couple of vertical steps. Despite not being difficult from a technical point of view, they give you theidea of the type of route and of rock type (compact sandstone) you will face during the climb. All the vertical walls are rather challenging but fun. The well posititied metal brackets are of a great help in the progression as the rock is rather smooth and without evident footholds. After ending a third vertical wall, you reach a connecting path which leads us in front of a smooth slab where you will climb vertically by using the metal brackets.
Once terminated this slab, you will find a traverse where we reccomend to take a break before tackling the key passage of this route (20' from the beginning). You start on thisexposed horizontal traverse goind around a hedge and you will face a open chimney where you will quickly realize the absence of good footholds. The initial part of the climb is to climb in split using the rock on the left side. After the first 5 meters, the difficulty level augment and you will find yourself using the wire to pass this hard part (V grade in free climbing). The key passage is about 15 meters long. Once terminated this passage, you reach a large ledge where you can rest and notice the bolts of the nearby climbing route developing on the opposite side of this rock blade compared to the via ferrata (30' from the beginning).
Gained back the energy, we tackle a second exposed horizontal traverse. This passage is similar to the previous one, despire shorter. The difficult points are passed by a couple of pulled tractions on the rope, especially in the first section , after that the brackets help us to reach the ending part of the via ferrata (45' from the beginning).
Terminated the traverse, you will go on with a latch on the ridge thread however well aided. The via ferrata ends with the summit book at the end of the rock blade (1h from the beginning).
Descent:
Continue on the obvious path until you reach a CAI path near some cliffs. Continue to the left now near the road where we parked the car.
Notes:
The via ferrata is of moderate difficulty except for the two vertical slabs, exposed and without grips in the final part and for this reason it should not be underestimated. These two traits, albeit short, raise the difficulty level of the via ferrata making it unsuitable for inexperienced and untrained people. The equipment is in excellent condition. It is a via ferrata that lends itself very well to being used in mid-season and, in the case of mild temperatures, even in winter.
Opportunities:
The ferrata in question is often combined with the other ferragata of Civago - la Ferrata del Monte Penna - which can be reached in 5 minutes by car and 30 minutes by approach.
If you want to complete the tour of the ferrata in Reggio Emilia, you can also combine it to the via ferrata:
- Ferrasso Balze del Malpasso (25 Km; ca 45 minutes),
- Ferrata degli Alpini to the Pietra di Bismantova (42 Km; about 1 hour),
- Ferrata of the Western Wall of Pietra di Bismantova (42 Km; about 1 hour).
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Evaluation of the Itinerary
- Technical difficulties
3/5
- Environmental difficulties:
2/5
- Exposure:
3/5
- Physical commitment:
2/5
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assowt
25/08/2019 at 22:49Environment and context are unique especially if traveled at the beginning of the season when the Dolo stream is still laden with water that is rumbling. It does not seem very difficult to me, we say that the difficulties are constant but never exaggerated, so it does not seem to me to be able to see again a key passage in particular.
VANNI CASARI
16/06/2019 at 00:12Traveled on 15/06/19 in the early morning. Ferrata very beautiful, challenging but with the right breaks between verticality, ledges and terraces to recover. However not to be underestimated and not suitable for beginners. Highly recommended. To try again to improve the progression in climbing.
Gioele Carboni
13/06/2019 at 19:05The environment is unique: very special. The via ferrata is well built: it gives you a good sense of security. The "difficult" passages: it is enough to study them for a moment and overcome them without problems. Beautiful sandstone, very solid and with the right grips. 10 and praise to those who made this beautiful track.
cammo75
03/06/2019 at 11:22Traveled the first time in autumn 2018 and the second on 11.05.2019 Assuming that my experience is at the beginning, I find this ferrata really challenging, especially in a couple of steps where exposure is high and a good physical preparation is necessary , however beautiful and satisfying.
From the point of view of the trip, on the other hand, I don't find it particularly interesting as it does not reach viewpoints but remains always inside the basin on the Dolo and then ends directly on the road to the starting point.
tommy.pt76
23/04/2019 at 19:11Very nice environment ... the via ferrata is quite vertical with a couple of tough passages on almost smooth rock but with exceptional grip
Patrick Bedogni
13/03/2019 at 17:12Very nice via ferrata, although it is quite short, it has some really challenging points that need an in-depth analysis before they can be tackled. I think the most beautiful of all the ones I've done. Highly recommended
Filippo Rosi
13/02/2019 at 14:57Very beautiful. Difficult the right. Beautiful environment
billogila
27/12/2018 at 16:39Nice path.
Congratulations to those who built it.
Difficult to keep you busy and focused.
At the most challenging points, there are some rest areas to admire the view.
Excellent proximity to the village for a gastronomic stop.
marcomelioli
11/09/2018 at 02:08The most beautiful ferrata of the Reggio Emilia Apennines. Beautiful environment, sustained verticality, some passages that are by no means trivial and could force you to pull on the cable if you don't have the patience to look for the right grips. Approaching all downhill, via ferrata that practically brings you back to the car. Excursion short enough, I suggest to combine it with the ferrata of Monte Penna.
Alessandro Iotti
19/08/2018 at 15:37The Ferrata del Barranco del Dolo is really beautiful, the right one difficult with vertical passages of which a couple are difficult. The rock is sandstone so rather difficult to climb however the supporting equipment (brackets and pegs) help to pass the most difficult points. Beautiful the environment in which the ferrata extends. I refer you back at least a couple of times a year. Probably one of the most beautiful and challenging not in the Alps.