Via Ferrata Bepo de Medil

Introduction:

The long-standing Ferrata Bepo de Medil is a little-used ferrata with little maintenance. It goes up a narrow gorge that leads from the Vajolet Valley to the Pala di Mesdì and then to the Valle del Larsec. The itinerary is for experienced hikers and requires absence of dizziness both in the aided sections and in the upper part of the route. The views from the summit are stupendous on the Catinaccio and the other main Dolomite groups of the Val di Fassa.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is the Gardeccia Hut in the Val del Vajolet, valley parallel to the Val di Fassa (Trento) but forbidden to private traffic.

To reach the hut there are some options:

• go up by cable car from Vigo di Fassa to the Ciampedie Hut and via an easy path to reach it in about 45 minutes, or
• reach the hut by shuttle bus from Pozza di Fassa (20'). The shuttle bus generally leaves from Piazza San Nicolò in the center of Pozza, however it is advisable to check the departure point and departure times with the local tourist office before leaving (please note that some years the shuttle is not provided). Directions for Google Maps available here. (not available any longer since 2019).
• risalire con funivia da Pera di Fassa e poi tramite sentiero raggiungere il rifugio.

Approach:

Reached the Rifigio Gardeccia (1949 m) you have two options to reach the gorge where the Ferrata Bepo de Medil extends:

• From the Gardeccia Hut we continue in a north-eastern direction going down along the dry river bed and we go up again on the orographic left side with indications for the panoramic path. Initially the trace is weak but then there is a sign indicating Hut Vajolet and from that moment the trace becomes more evident. It rises steadily but never too steep past a landslide. After a while we will notice a sign indicating the Rifigio Vajolet (1h from Rifugio Gardeccia). For the timetables indicated below, we consider this option.
• The simplest but longest option is to reach the Vajolet Hut along the popular path that goes up the Vajolet Valley (2243 m). Reached the hut you will have to follow a trail that branches off to the right in an easterly direction that continues along the hillside below the cliffs of the Larsec. We continue on this path for a little less than half an hour until we reach a small pole from which a path starts in a northeast direction. This path is not signposted in the pole and - at the time of the visit - it seemed obstructed by a stone wall to indicate its closure (1h 30 'from Rifugio Gardeccia).

From that pole there is a path heading north-east in the direction of the bastions. This path is not marked in the pole and - at the time of the visit - it seemed obstructed by a stone wall to indicate its closure. From this point marked by some sporadic red marks the Ferrata Bepo de Medil begins.

Via Ferrata:

After the pole, always follow an uphill stretch of path that goes around a rocky edge and presents us with a gorge where the Ferrata Bepo de Medil extends. The initial part of this gorge is wide but collapsed. The track that we followed uphill is not present and we need a lot of attention to climb up the landslide, which is definitely unstable. We climb not without troubles but gaining quickly altitude. After the most unstable part of the landslide we will notice some dated red signs that indicate that we are entering a narrow gorge where we soon meet wire ropes which initially run along the right side. You continue uphill up to a more difficult passage than the other aided sections. A big boulder blocks the way and we will have to go up a leap of a couple of meters. This stretch also presents us with the only bracket of the route, however, placed uncomfortably on the left side. This trait will need to be traced back with a bit of agility and strength. We continue uphill always inside the narrow gorge without any particular technical difficulties up to the end of the crack near a vertical dihedral but rich in handholds.

We go out of the gorge (30 'from the start - 1h 45' total) and we find ourselves a barren landscape in front of us. We will have to follow one slight trace on a detrital bottom that goes north-east towards the Pala di Mesdì. Here we will have to pay attention to two unprotected passages worthy of note: a passage asks us to go down in a not very stable carving and then go up again on the opposite slope paying a lot of attention to the debris bottom, and a stretch of exposed ridge.

We will arrive at a saddle (20 'from the end of the via ferrata - about 2h total) where we will have two options:

• Keep to the right in a southerly direction and go up the Pala di Mesdì on a gravelly ridge to then go backwards on this saddle (1h 15 'a / r), or
• Conclude the trip at this point the trip and proceed to return.

Descent:

For the return we will first of all have to go down the saddle from east to the valley of the Larsec. This descent takes place by track on a fairly unstable debris bottom and above all in the central part it could be useful to use hiking sticks to maintain balance. Reached the valley of the Larsec we will notice a more marked track that cuts through the valley and here we will have two options:

1. Keeping to the right, we will continue downhill along the detrital valley towards the Passo delle Scalette where going down the aided path of the same name we will descend to the Vajolet Valley and, going north along the path under the Larsec cliffs, we will return to the Gardeccia Hut (5h total)
2. Continue uphill to the left reaching Pope pass where keeping to the left you go down the Don Guido path reaching the Rifugio Vajolet from which going down the Vajolet Valley you return to the Gardeccia Hut (5h total).

Notes:

Several notes on this trip are useful. The first is linked to the state of the path. The path is substantially closed, having removed all indications to reach it and in fact erected a small stone wall to indicate this state. In practical terms, however, it can be covered. It must be borne in mind that the state of the metal equipment present is of a psychological support but they are dated and in many points that are so loose that they may not be useful in the event of an actual fall. The gorge where the aided stretch extends is unstable, as evidenced by the collapsed sections to be climbed, and this must raise the level of attention. Absolutely necessary the helmet considering these premises. Last aspect related to the aided part, you can find snow even in late season.

Leaving the gorge where the aided sections develop, follow a path at high altitude where it is necessary to follow the trail given the scarcity of signs present. An unprotected passage near a collapsed gully is probably the most exposed and dangerous of the trip. It requires a firm step and an absolute lack of vertigo.

With these aspects to advise against the choice, it must be said that the path extends in one of the few corners of the Catinaccio little frequented e the view from the top of the route is of absolute value on the whole group and on the other surrounding peaks.

Opportunities:

The Ferrata Bepo de Medil extends in one of the most austere but at the same time fascinating environments of the Catinaccio group. It can also be walked downhill by paying even more attention. It can be combined as indicated in relation to the Aided path of the Scalette or from the Pope Pass one could continue in a northerly direction towards the Catinaccio of Antermoia and take his ferrata. Still remaining in the northern part of the Catinaccio you could walk along the Ferrata Laurenzi or the Ferrata Maximilian. In this case it will be necessary to stay overnight in one of the huts present near Lake Antermoia or the Passo di Tires.

If you go down into the Valle del Vajolet you could take some easier routes: the Via Ferrata to Passo Santner, the Via Ferrata Masarè or the Via Ferrata Roda di Vael.

On a different day, one could move towards the San Pellegrino Pass to follow two routes: la via ferrata Bruno Federspiel and the Ferrata Bepi Zac.