Via Ferrata Alpina at the Col dei Bos

Introduction:

The recent Ferrata of the Alpini Brigade at the Col dei Bos is a very pleasant medium difficulty via ferrata that climbs a mountain nestled between two Dolomite groups with breathtaking views: the Tofane and the Lagazuoi. The ferrata climbs a very logical line on the western wall of the pyramidal prism of the Col dei Bos theater of numerous testimonies of the Great War.

Starting location:

The starting point is the Strobel Restaurant on the Veneto side of the Passo Falzarego. The pass can be reached from San Cassiano (Bolzano) or from Cortina d'Ampezzo (Belluno). From the pass, descend towards Cortina for about a kilometer until you reach the restaurant on the left with the large parking lot just below the Col dei Bos where the Ferrata Alpina Brigade will develop. Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

From the restaurant (2060 m) we climb a CAI path not numbered with directions for the via ferrata. We pass a small wooden bridge over the Rio Lagazuoi and begin to climb with a steep slope on a well-trodden path. We ignore a trail that branches off to the left and we reach a wide mule track (2170 m - 20 'from the parking lot) where we keep to the right. We proceed on the wide mule track passing by ruined buildings dating back to Great War. The mule track descends as we at a marked crossroads head north-east on a thin track in the direction of the Col dei Bos that stands out above our heads. Be careful not to take the zigzag path that heads straight north, which will be our return path. We proceed shortly on the path up to reach the start of the via ferrata (2200 m - 30 'from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata:

The last meters of the approach take place under the wall where we will climb the via ferrata. Paying attention to the rock we will notice two slits that cut the rock in a vertical line slightly resting on the left side. These two slits characterize the first section of the route and are the most challenging passages and can be studied before being addressed.

As mentioned, the Ferrata Alpina Brigade leaves near a crack. There we climb for about 6 meters taking advantage of some good natural grimps and possibly using the cable in the first detachment and in a couple of single intermediate steps. Climb the first crack we have to walk 4 meters to the right on a crossbar that requires an easy passage in split. We finish the traverse and we are under the second most difficult crack that assumes the characteristics of a dihedral. This passage of about 10-12 meters it is the most challenging passage on the route. The rock is rather free of good handholds and the initial and high part of the dihedral will require some rope traction. The first 3 meters are particularly smooth and the slit wider than the upper part so, not offering holdings in split, we will proceed with some traction. We reach a wide bracket beyond which we leave again. It is possible to look for small and narrow holds, and to climb this exposed dihedral.

After the passage we proceed on some rocks and then on one ledge to the left which leads us to a new step of a certain commitment. We need to go back one exposed edge. The first meters can be faced in a split way using a small rocky pillar. We climb diagonally in strong exposure for a couple of meters to get around a rocky roof and we come across a bracket that is a bit distant from the cable and may not be reachable in the case of a lanyard that is not too long. From the bracket the cable proceeds vertically to 4 challenging meters where we meet one second comfortable bracket. After the second bracket the rock becomes more supported and we leave the first section of the route.

The route now takes on a different verticality and difficulty. The first meters are a series of not difficult rocks to the right that lead us to a exposed sideways. The horizontal traverse is aerial but the rock offers good grips for the feet and with the cross we reach an edge that we go up again in strong exposure on well appigliata rock. They momentarily end the equipment as we climb a stretch of path. We meet some aided rocks and a new section of path leads us to the new section of the route.

We climb some rocks to which follows a traverse to the left and new rocks uphill. We reach a new sideways that rises diagonally without any particular problems and we reach a new edge. We climb theexposed edge and we go down on the opposite side. Let's start a connecting section composed of rocks where it is easy to climb and in some places it is a path aided up to reach the next vertical wall.

The first meters of this new wall are vertical but well set. The next one is slightly more challenging diagonal traverse to the left followed by a vertical wall in which we climb using the excellent supports for the feet present in the rock. We cover a transfer ledge to the right, followed by a new well-connected vertical jump. We leave this passage and to the left we cover a path with some rocks and between ups and downs we reach a detrital saddle. To the left of the detrital saddle (red stamp) starts a steep descent route in the direction of the underlying trail track. Always from the saddle it is possible to use another escape route, continuing halfway up a ledge reaching the return path. Finally it is possible to continue uphill following the cairns to complete the via ferrata.

After a short stretch of path we meet the last vertical wall full of interesting passages. We start with a short diagonal left-hand side with little handholds, followed by a vertical passage with strong exposure. The passage offers greater grips than the traverse below. We reach a new traverse and therefore one wall of about ten meters to climb in pleasant climbing. We reach a carving in the rock followed by a series of rocks towards the left before facing one wall of about twenty meters very climbing that goes up a crack. In the crack we will find abundant handholds to go up the wall without pulling too much on the cable. This is the final stretch of the Alpine Brigade Ferrata and we reach the summit level of the Col dei Bos (2559 m - 2h from the start - 2h 30 'total) with the spartan wooden cross.

Descent:

From the end of the ferrata we follow the obvious track in a north-west direction. The path descends along a gully with a slightly slippery bottom until it returns to the junction near the start of the ferrata (45 'from the end of the ferrata - 3h 15' total). From this point backwards for the approach path to the car park (20 '- about 3h 45' total).

Notes:

The Ferrata at the Col dei Bos is a recent and excellently aided via ferrata that climbs a logical line of the Col dei Bos pyramid in the Lagazuoi Group. The via ferrata is a vertical and demanding part but never too difficult. It remains exposed for most of the itinerary and at the same time it can be climbed in most passages.

Opportunities:

The Ferrata Brigata degli Alpini at Col dei Bos extends near Passo Falzarego, a favorite route for lovers of via ferrata. In fact, the pace can be reached in a short time Aided path of the Kaiserjagers at the Piccolo Lagazuoi, la Ferrata Tomaselli, the Via Ferrata Averau and the Ra Gusela. Furthermore going down towards Cortina you can meet the various ferratas to the Tofane: the Ferrata Olivieri, the Ferrata Aglio to the Tofana di Mezzo, the Ra Bujela and the Ra Pegna just to name a few of varying degrees of difficulty.