Ferrata al Canalone Belasa

Introduction:

The Ferrata al Canalone Belasa (literally "Ferrata of the Belasa Gully") is a peculiar via ferrata. From a purely climbing point of view it is moderately difficult with aided sections that go up walls, ramps and cliffs alternating with stretches of path along a wild gully under the Moregallo. Among these aided sections and those of the path there are also some delicate passages in free climbing which must not be underestimated (max grade III) in an environment that is isolated and not touristic at all.

Starting location:

The starting point is the hamlet of Belvedere, in the municipality of Valmadrera in the province of Como. When you reach the block, you must arrive near the start of a road that is closed to traffic and look for parking nearby. From there the approach path will start.

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

Follow the road uphill until you reach a chapel where a pole with many signs indicates many opportunities. We will undertake the path 7 which to the right heads towards the source of Sambrosera where a couple of signs will indicate the directions for the EE path of the Canalone Belasa to the right (1h 15' from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata:

From the water spring, we start an easy path but with vegetation that hinders the hike. We follow some red signs and we walk towards the gully. We will notice the real beginning of the gully from the first chain that helps us to go up a fairly flat slab. Continue along this stretch between short sections of path and rocky leaps, some aided and others not. In this way we will reach one of the two most difficult passages of the route: a wall of about ten vertical meters in which to climb climbing. The exit is slightly more complex than the first part of the partition wall and care must be taken if you do not want to use the chain.

In short, we arrive at the second difficult point (key passage): it is a chimney in which the chain runs on the left side and the terminal passage is slightly overhanging. The rock is a bit smooth and it is more difficult than the other passages of the way to use natural holds avoiding to pull the chain.

We are now continuing on less demanding steps. It faces a ramp, a small wall and a pillar in succession, until it reaches the terminal section of the canyon. This last part - with the peak in front of our eyes - leads us to two vertical passages in which it is possible to climb using the holds for the hands and feet. Thus we reach the end of the Canalone Belasa and we have 2 options in front of us to reach the summit of the Moregallo:

1. follow a sign to the left leading to a small path with a stretch along the hillside, connecting the path from the West Ridge to Moregallo to the right (east). You reach the path and end the climb with the last two aided passages, one of which is not trivial, or
2. ignore the sign and continue to the right towards the OSA mountaineering route. You will notice a grassy couloir that rises steeply. Go up again in the grass (if wet can be dangerous) towards a saddle. Shortly before reaching the rocks we will find a path that cuts halfway down the top. We take it to the right, thus reaching the last stretch of the West Crest path just below the summit.

Both options allow you to reach the summit of Moregallo (1h 30' from the end of the approach - 2h 45' from the parking lot).

Descent:

From the summit of Moregallo you will have to choose going down east or west.

• If you go down towards the east, you will reach the Bocchetta di Sambrosera (10' from the summit) where you can go down to the right towards the source or go straight in the direction of the next Bocchetta di Preguda where we will turn left along the "Paolo and Eliana path" that you join with the path from the Bocchetta di Sambrosera just before the Sambrosera spring. The choice between the two options is mainly on the landscape theme, with the second option offering very nice views.
• If you go down towards the West towards the Bocche di Moregge you will have to choose whether to take a path aided with a ridge or a simpler path. The choice takes place after the first rocky jump under the summit: at the saddle continue along the ridge or on a path that passes under it. In both cases you reach the Bocche di Moregge where keeping the left you go down towards the source of Sambrosera.

From the Sambrosera springs, follow the approaching path backwards to reach the car (approx. 1h 30' from the summit - 4h 15' total).

Notes:

This route, wild and hardly beaten, despite the low altitude will reserve interesting surprises. The path is steep and narrow, in some sections aided with chains that will give greater safety the sections of II and III free climbing degree. The exposure is modest (we are in a gully) and the sections in free climbing are generally between 3 and 5 meters high. If they exceed this height, they are secured by the chain.

The summit lawn is very steep and the grass is treacherous to go uphill (avoid following rains).

We classify this route as difficult mainly due to the need to climb several stretches in free climbing (max grade III). This is an aspect not to be underestimated even for the expert hikers.

Opportunities:

The Ferrata del Canalone Belasa can in fact be combined uphill or downhill with the Aided path to the Moregallo along the west ridge. The trip is long and the difference in height is not irrelevant, but if one wanted to stay at high altitude one could continue in the direction of the difficult Ferrata del Venticinquennale at the Western Horn or go down to the valley and consider going along the 30 ° Ferrata OSA al Corno RAT or the easy one Aided path of the Vasche. This may be useful map of the area.