Via Ferrata Captain Bilgeri

Introduction:

This Via Ferrata ascending to Monte Piano in the Sesto Dolomites has been named after the memory of Captain Bilgeri. The ferrata is of limited difficulty. The itinerary is quite long and the approach covers quiet some gap in a short time.

Starting location:

To take the hike you must reach the road that connects Misurina with Dobbiaco. Going up from Misurina, proceed driving for about 4 km and, after a sharp bend to the right, we continue until we find a track that goes up into the woods. We park the car in one of the road widens.

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

From the car park (about 1600 m) we follow the steep track that climbs up into the woods with a few bends. We meet some paths and we always keep the left continuing in the direction of Rifugio Bosi at Monte Piana (2205 m). Once you reach the hut, the path reduces the slope. At this point we avoid the aided path ascending to Monte Piana (left) and we remain in a slight slope towards the Open-Air Museum of the Great War. Proceed north to a crossroads of paths where we continue straight in the direction of the Ferrata to Captain Bilgeri (2h from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata:

From the yellow sign which indicates the beginning of the via ferrata, we initially climb diagonally until we reach a dihedral where some pegs help the progression. We continue slightly uphill, we cross an edge that leads us on one comfortable ledge. We continue for a few minutes until we reach a series of easy rocky jumps that lead us to a wooden bench where it is possible to stop and enjoy the view.

We start again on a ledge on the left until you reach a nice chimney to be traced back to split, probably the most beautiful and challenging passage of the climb. We continue climbing on a first gully and we reach a second narrow gully where we proceed in split. Further, we go up a wall standing on the right side until you reach a saddle. We go up to the right some rocky leaps without difficulty until we reach the ridge. We walk along it and we are on summit slabau of Monte Piano (2305 m - 1h from the attack - 3h total) where you can enjoy, among other things, a magnificent view of the nearby 3 Cime di Lavaredo.

Descent:

From Monte Piano (2305 m) we now follow path 6 (or Alta Via 3) towards the south, which runs between aided sections and war trenches down to a saddle. We go up towards the summit of Monte Piana which we reach (2324 m) and then descend to the Rifugio Bosi encountered on the way. From this stretch, downhill on the approach to the parking lot.

Notes:

Via ferrata rather simple and never athletic. The rock allows to be well climbed and the many brackets do not create problems even in the absence of technical skills. The historical interest of the route with remains of the Great War is remarkable.

Itinerario Alternativo (consigliato dal 2020):

Dopo la tempesta Vaja del 2018, l'itinerario proposto in relazione è diventato difficile da percorrere e da seguire sia prima che dopo il Rifugio Bosi. L'alternativa a questo itinerario è la seguente:

• Partenza dal Lago Landro posto sul versante altoatesino della strada che collega Dobbiaco con Misurina. Coordinate di Google Maps disponibili qui.
• L'avvicinamento inizia dal versante nord del Lago seguendo il sentiero 6/ 102 in direzione est fino a incrociare in breve un sentiero più largo che sale da nord. Teniamo la destra e seguiamo le indicazioni per il Monte Piano. Il sentiero sale ripido tra tornanti nel bosco. Giunti a circa 2000 metri di altitudine si segue per la Via Ferrata.
• Terminata la ferrata, dal pianoro sommitale si potrebbe scendere per il sentiero fino al bivio con la deviazione per la via ferrata. L'itinerario consigliato è di percorrere le gallerie e le trincee che da nord scendono verso sud seguendo i segnavia 6A che scendono in direzione ovest. Avremo due opzioni di rientro verso il Lago di Landro.
• I percorsi non sono sempre obbligati in questo itinerario essendoci moltissime trincee e gallerie.

Opportunities:

The area is very rich in terms of landscape and hiking. Between Via Ferrata in the Sesto Dolomites which we recommend are the Via Ferrata Innerkofler De Luca at Monte Paterno, the Ferrata to the Toblin Tower and the Via Ferrata to the Croda Rossa di Sesto. Going down towards Misurina you can also walk the Aided path Bonacossa and the Via Ferrata Merlone al Cadin.