Via Ferrata Cappellano Hosp at Toblin Tower

Introduction:

The Via Ferrata Cappellano Hosp (literally "Chaplein Hosp") is the route climbing the north-east face of the Torre di Toblin in the Sesto Dolomites. The ferrata is of moderate difficulty, well climbable and never too exposed. It is often used as a descent route for those climbing the Ferrata delle Scalette uphill.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is the Auronzo Hut (2320 m) on the Veneto side of the Sesto Dolomites. To reach the hut the main and easiest access is by car from Misurina (m.1750), through the 7 km panoramic road with toll, Misurina can be reached from Cortina or Auronzo di Cadore (SR48 and then SP49) or from Dobbiaco in Val Pusteria (SS 51 and then SP49). Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

The goal of the approach is to reach the base of the Tower of Toblin. Leave the car in the parking lot and continue towards the Rifugio Lavaredo first and then the Forcella Lavaredo then. We go down from the saddle and go back to the Locatelli Hut (2450 m - 1h 15 'from the parking lot) and then following the directions northbound red triangles we reach the Tower of Toblin. More information on the approach can be found in the report for Via Ferrata delle Scalette.

Reaching the Tower of Toblin at the base we will have two options:

• go up the Ferrata delle Scalette and go down the Ferrata Hosp (recommended), in this case we will have to go to the north-west (left) where following the indications we meet the start of the via ferrata. or
• go up the Ferrata Hosp and back along the same via ferrata. In this case we will have to address north-east (right) where we meet the start of the Ferrata Hosp.

The Ferrata delle Scalette is certainly more challenging with a couple of difficult passages that make it insidious to be climbed downwards while the Ferrata Hosp is pleasant and climbable uphill andd at the same time it does not present particular downclimbing difficulties. In both cases, the total approach path is 1h 30' from the parking lot.

Via Ferrata:

The start of the route is near a war post where there is a loophole. We continue with an easy traverse to the right to then face a first vertical jump which rises a short wall of 6 meters after which bend to the right initially climbing on a path without ropes then on some beautiful vertical but perfectly rocky cliffs. We walk a short stretch of uphill path that with a curve to the left puts us under the most physical passage of the climb. We climb an exposed edge with good holds, beyond which we climb a long series of rocks on a not very stable debris.

We reach a jump a little pronounced beyond which we cover a diagonal ledge to the right. We continue the climb meeting one series of rocky leaps rather climbing that move us first to the left then to the right.

We go up a long way ascending to the left and we reach the summit ridge - also aided - that we walk to the right reaching the cross of summit of the Tower of Toblin (2617 m - 30' from the start - about 2h total).

Descent:

As anticipated in the description of the approach, the recommended descent is backward for the Ferrata Hosp. Once you reach the valley, go back along the approach path and return to the Auronzo Hut (4h total).

Notes:

The Ferrata of the Cappellano Hosp is a via ferrata characterized by some easy vertical and rocky jumps resulting in many sections easy to climb without significant technical difficulties. The via ferrata is suitable for beginners and people with relatively low experience of aided routes. It should be noted, however, that the downhill route must be followed and that this sense of travel will certainly be more demanding then the upwards route.

Opportunities:

As mentioned in several parts of the report, the Ferrata Hosp can be combined with the Ferrata delle Scalette in a loop itinerary with ascent to the Torre di Toblin. Returning to the Locatelli Hut it is then possible to head south-east towards Monte Paterno along the Via Ferrata Innerkofler-De Luca that will take us back to Forcella Lavaredo and then return to the parking lot.

Continuing south towards Misurina we find two interesting aided paths: the Aided path Bonacossa and the Ferrata Merlone both panoramic and not particularly difficult from a technical point of view.

Proceeding in the direction of Sesto we meet the Via Ferrata Capitano Bilgeri on the Monte Piano, the Ferrata dei Costoni at the Croda di Sesto or the Via Ferrata Strada degli Alpini.