Review of the Ferrata Campalani al Carega. The Ferrata, while remaining short, is challenging in single passages and generally exposed. Very nice itinerary with various passages. Possibility of final climb to the Carega and return with a ring route up to the Pertica Pass. Beware of the classic fog that surrounds the Carega in the hot afternoon hours.
The starting point of the itinerary is the Revolto Hut (1355 m). To reach the hut you have to go up the Val d'Illasi. Coming from the south, exit the A4 at Verona Est or Soave and reach Selva di Progno. Go past it until you reach a saddle where you will keep your right, still climbing up the valley to reach Giazza. In the village we stay on the main road passing a wide hairpin bend to the left. We stay on the road and continue for about 7 Km along the road, sometimes narrow but always well paved, until we reach the Revolto Hut. Directions for Google Maps available here.
From the Revolto Hut we will have to reach the Rifugio Pertica Pass (1530 m). You can reach the pass either with the forest road that starts from the barrier where the road ends or by a path that cuts through the road in the woods and leads you to the pass (20 'with a forest path - 30' with forest). From Passo Pertica we follow the wide forest road (path 109) that connects the Hut to the Pertica Pass with the Scalorbi Hut. We follow the wide path up to a marked saddle before reaching the Rifugio Scalorbi where we keep the left taking the 19 that goes up with a constant slope and never excessive towards the Carega. We continue on the path until we meet a new signposted junction in which we keep the left with clear signal for the Ferrata Campalani. We follow in more marked ascent the track paying attention between the pines up to thestart under one yellowish wall (2h from the parking lot).
The Ferrata Campalani presented the key passage in the first few meters of the route. In 2019 the equipment was modified and this passage, which was the most demanding and physical of the route, was significantly facilitated. The route now offers some comfortable brackets that help you win the first 5-6 meters with the metactical cable that runs to the left of a dihedral. Once up the dihedral we reach a comfortable terrace where the itinerary continues. We continue by going around an exposed edge to the right looking for the small holds present for feet. We are now at go up a crack with the wire rope that took the place of the solid chain initially present. Go up the crack and go out on the left side bypassing a rocky rib. We now climb an exposed and poor trait up to a small terrace where taking breath is recommended. The beginning of the Campalani is certainly the most challenging stretch of the route.
We continue with a horizontal traverse to the right with which we bypass a corner and proceed on a narrow and exposed ledge. The cable now it goes up diagonally in good exposure. Pay attention to the friable bottom of the rock at this point. Climbed this section we walk a short traverse to the right and, in near an edge, we follow the chain which leads us to take a exposed sideways diagonally to the right. We go all the way across that goes around a corner and there leads into a large and shady chimney. Initially the chain rises vertically and then enters the chimney. To avoid excessive traction it will be recommended look for holds on both sides of the chimney. As we go up we hold the left side more avoiding a rocky ledge and climbing a slightly narrow passage that leads us out of the demanding chimney. We are now on a stretch of rocks we climb diagonally to the right. We therefore find ourselves climbing a new short crack between the wall and a rocky spur. We climb diagonally with Bocchetta Mosca straight ahead of our eyes. We are now continuing a climb a new rather difficult and exposed crack that leaves us on an easy horizontal cross where the book of signatures is positioned.
Let's continue climbing a series of rocky jumps similar to the previous ones. The rock is very jagged here and offers holds even if the consistency is not always optimal. We go down a short aerial passage to find ourselves under the last vertical wall composed of a dihedral. This wall, although not as difficult as the first section of the route, remains quite challenging, especially in the first few meters. The upper part offers more grips and more support. There chain gradually bends to the right with i pines on our side, a sign that we are at the final stages of the Ferrata Campalani. We climb the last jumps to the left and, after a short traverse, we are at the end of the ferrata on the wide ridge (45 'from the start - 2h 45' total).
After the via ferrata we cover the ridge which is rather aerial although not difficult and leads us in about 20 minutes to Fraccaroli Hut (2230 m) from which we can quickly reach the summit of Monte Carega (2259 m - 30 'from the end of the Ferrata Campalani - 3h 15' total). We can therefore organize the return with 3 options:
The Ferrata Campalani is a very interesting via ferrata that extends on the eastern slope of the Carega. The via ferrata alternates between medium difficulty sections with at least 2 more demanding passages, although never prohibitive or extremely difficult (traverse and chimney). The rock is very often rich in grips that make you want to proceed climbing even if in some places it is crumbly. Compared to the other ferratas in the Small Dolomites the Ferrata Campalani is aided in large sections with a chain. Beware of the typical fog that surrounds the Small Dolomites, especially in the warm months that could create some problems in the stretch at the end of via ferrata along the aerial ridge that reaches Fraccaroli. In 2018 the equipment that was in excellent condition was restructured and, as indicated in the report, the start was facilitated.
We indicate here the description of the old start of the ferrata. We climb some rocky steps up to theproper start. The first 3 carabiners are definitely challenging and athletic. There chain starts about a meter and a half from the ground and it helps us to climb a jump of about 3 meters where we will also have to use a bracket to overcome the present overhang. We climb this poor passage of holds and reach a small terrace after 2 meters where we can evaluate how to proceed.
La Ferrata Campalani è la più antica ferrata delle Piccole Dolomiti e la sua inaugurazione risale al 1958. La via fu ideata e costruita dal GAO (Gruppo Alpino Operaio) di Verona nel periodo tra il 1956 e il 1958. La Ferrata è dedicata alla memoria di Carlo Campalani, socio del GAO, morto prematuramente.
The Ferrata Campalani extends in an environment - that of the Small Dolomites - where it is possible to combine several aided itineraries. As indicated in the report, one could walk along the Pojesi Aided path downhill as well as from Passo Pertica it is possible to climb the short and athletic one. Via Ferrata Biasin. Going down towards Monte Obante you can go up the Via Ferrata of Vajo Scuro. If you proceed in the direction of Gramolon, you can follow the Ferrata Viali and the Ferrata Ferrari. Finally proceeding north towards the Pasubio we meet the Aided path to Monte Cornetto and Aided path Falcipieri to the 5 peaks of the Pasubio. From Pian delle Fugazze it is also possible to undertake the Aided path Baglioni.