Review of the Ferrata 50 of the Clap at the Creton dei Culzei. Very satisfying, varied itinerary, with a long aided stretch that alternates technical passages with long stretches on the ridge. Very beautiful landscapes in the Carnic Alps. Attention to approach and return, both challenging and long.
The starting point of the itinerary is the Pian di Casa cross-country ski center in the municipality of Pesariis in the province of Udine. To reach the large ski center parking area, take the Strada Statale 465 of the Forcella Lavardet which connects Comeglians (Udine) with the Veneto side. Directions for Google Maps available here.
Leave the car in the Pian di Casa car park (1236 m) we climb the path 201 very well marked and beaten with the aim of reaching the Rifugio de Gasperi. We initially climb on a moderate slope ignoring a first saddle (path 202), then a second one (path 203) and finally third (path 315) always keeping the right and staying on 201. Now let's hike steeply, getting over one cave and then with a couple of most exposed points and landslides (aided) we continue on the path until you reach the Hut de Gasperi of the section CAI di Tolmezzo (1767 m - 1h 30' from the parking lot).
From the hut the is already clearly visible Creton di Culzei ridge and to reach the start we will have to travel on Corbellini Aided path eastbound. The Corbellini Aided path with signpost 316 runs parallel to the ferrata but downstream from the Creton di Culzei. The path is very scenic but subject to continuous landslides what of it have changed the layout During the years. The path extends long a series of exposed ledges, steps up meadow, uphill and downhill sections that they go around corners and colanders that descend along the southern wall of the Creton. We also deal with a pair of vertical lines newly aided with brackets, change and ladders. In a couple of points they were inserted wooden walkways and trunks. After about 45 minutes from the hut e past 2 gullies, we reach a third. The path continue straight on meadows, instead we follow the obvious trail to the left marked by a metal slab and in a short time we reach the first metal equipment of the via ferrata (2h 15 'from the parking lot).
The first section of ferrata rises a lean rock under a ledge. The cable runs from right to left diagonally and, with the help of a pair of metal brackets, we climb this step. Beyond this first aided section we enter a gully. The rocky canyon steep salt, following the red signs, we alternate simple steps on stones in short passages on rocks and some easy climbing sections separated with aided section in the most exposed passages. Behind us is now visible in the distance the Rifugio de Gasperi left about an hour earlier. We then reach a leaning wall where we climb following the zigzag cable helped by some metal brackets. We go down to the lower part of the gully to partially climb it and then to move to the left on some climbing rocks. We reach one aided dropout that we cross and, moving on the other side, we begin a traverse to the right to then go up vertical in increasing exposure right under the South Creton bastion of Culzei. We are now on a grassy terrace gives on we see the saddle we are aiming for during the climb. We continue on stretches of path reaching some exposed and aided ledges with which we bypass the gully and carry on a saddle to start the aided path on the ridge (2h from the start). It is possible to end the trip here by going north and reaching the Sentiero Corbellini near Casara Siera.
We now walk along a section of the ridge aided to reach a large wall. With the help of some metal brackets we initially climb vertically then to the right and we continue vertical in strong exposure. We continue going up a exposed tower with a passage to the left. We reach a new wall that moves to the right around a rocky roof and leads us to the ridge. This section of the route is characterized by challenging and exposed passages. We go down a few meters and continue on the ridge reaching a series of stepped passages that cut to the left. They then finish the equipment and we are on a wide ridge that we follow towards the evident Creton de Culzei pulpit.
We go down into a gully that we go up on the opposite side going up in strong exposure a vertical wall and aided with brackets. We take ourselves back to the ridge for a series of passages on rocky leaps and then a new well-secured vertical wall. We follow the equipment and straight to us we see, however distant, the summit cross. We go down a few meters and we move on a slab placed along the ridge. We follow the red signs that now they lead us on a path at high altitude. We reach a rather challenging chimney which we initially climb on the right side then on the left side. We continue alternating uphill and downhill aided sections and along gullies until we reach the summit cross (2458 m - 4h from the start - approx. 6h 30 'total).
From the peak we descend towards the west following the track that descends on a steep and demanding path up to Forcella dell'Alpino. Attention to the descent that initially takes place on unstable stony following the red signs then for a steep stretch with short passages of climbing in some cases aided in others. The descent is not trivial and needs to be very careful. We follow the red signs we reach one narrow saddle covered with a stuck stone. We then begin a narrow descent along a fairly crumbling gully. Following the directions for the Ferrata Gas - recommended choice - we start by cutting horizontally with an aided ledge, we climb a few meters and then descend on a well-set aided wall and with some useful metal bracketa arranged in vertical passages and without grips. We continue in the aided descent on short stretches of aided path up to rejoin with the path that descends from the landslide gully. Now we continue downhill paying attention but with limited difficulties until we reach the Rifugio de Gasperi (2h from the summit -8h 30' total). Backwards along the path following the approach to the car park (total 9h 30').
The Ferrata dei Cinquanta of the Clap is a difficult and rewarding itinerary. The aided climb is long, varied and full of interesting passages as well as the descent is to be done with caution. The ferrata can be divided into two large sections: the first in the gully and the second along the ridge. The first of medium difficulty and the second difficult with varied, exposed and technical passages. Attention to the various unprotected points along the ascent and descent that deserve attention even because of the fund not always stable. After 2 years in which some missing equipment had officially closed the via ferrata, this was officially reopened in the summer of 2019.
La Ferrata dei 50 del Clap si può affermare che sia la "Super-Ferrata" del Friuli. Come avviene per la famosa Ferrata Costantini alla Moiazza, non è la difficoltà tecnica a farle meritare questo nome bensì la lunghezza e la continuità dell'itinerario. La via infatti è, se intrapresa in giornata, decisamente lunga e impegnativa dal punto di vista fisico e psicologico, pur senza mai diventare estrema per le difficoltà tecniche.
La ferrata fu realizzata tra gli anni 1991-1992 e la costruzione è stata effettuata ad opera di un gruppo di alpinisti locali, i ‘Cinquanta del Clap’.
The Ferrata dei Cinquanta of the Clap takes place in a wonderful area of the Carnic Alps. Continuing north as well as south we find other interesting routes.
To the north we meet the Ferrata Simone, the Ferrata al Chiadenis, the Sartor, the Ferrata at Coglians and the Via Ferrata Senza Confini. Continuing south we meet the Aided path Olivato, the Via Ferrata Cassiopea and the Ferrata Adventure Climb Varmost and the recent Via Ferrata la Farina del Diavolo a Villa Santina.