Via Ferrata Corno del Bene

Introduction:

The recent Ferrata Corno del Bene is a short but intense, athletic and exposed ferrata. The ferrata climbs up a rocky edge along a very logical line with increasing exposure. New and excellently arranged equipment make the climb very interesting but it is not recommended for neophyte and inexperienced people. Very beautiful view from the top.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is the inhabited area of Zone near the eastern shore of the Lake Iseo, Brescia. Once in Marone with the road that connects Brescia at Valcamonica, exit towards Zone. In areas just entering the village we will notice Corso Europa on the right. We walk for a short while then to the right we will see Via Monte Guglielmo. We take it to an intersection. On the right, go up via Monte Guglielmo (an indication for the Bosco degli Gnomi is also visible). Proceed along the narrow road to a parking lot before a bridge where the paved road ends.

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

From the parking lot we start the tour following the little road now no longer paved uphill. This section of the cart is also the CAI 227 we follow uphill to a saddle in the road. Straight ahead keeping to the right the CAI 230 comes off, instead we will carry out on the left following the 227 towards the Monte Guglielmo and the Corno del Bene. We will reach a junction where the ferrata is marked or if we wish we could continue to a hut with a fountain (Palamrusso di Basso). We keep for the ferrata and we continue along the meadows up to a crossroads: straight on we will continue uphill on the Corno del Bene, we keep the right towards the rocky coast. At the next junction, we ignore the path that goes down towards Casentiga to the right and towards the path previously traveled and we turn decidedly to the left towards the wood. In short we are starting the Ferrata Corno del Bene (2h from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata:

The via ferrata starts with a horizontal traverse that is not difficult to the right. In short, the metal cable turns vertically and begins to rise vertically. In these first meters the rock offers excellent grips for the feet even if these grips are generally a bit dirty with soil, reducing its hold. The cable bends slightly to the right where we encounter a first overhanging section where some wisely placed metal brackets help us to go up the passage. Climb up this small ledge we cross initially horizontally to the left then diagonally for a short distance with the help of some brackets and we resume a decidedly vertical climb. In this section there are fewer holds that in the initial stretch and in some passages the wire rope - optimally stretched - will come to our aid together with some metal handles. We walk a short and narrow rocky ledge to the right and then we go up a wall vertically with a small terrace in the middle where it is possible to breathe. After the small terrace, the wall continues vertically with handles on the right and left of the vertical sliding cable. It bends slightly to the left and continues along this exposed wall helped also by some brackets that help us where the rock is particularly poor in grips. This is a very adrenaline-filled, physical and aerial feature of the route.

Climb up the wall we face a initially horizontal dihedral then diagonal with the help of some brackets for the feet. We come under a dihedral of just under ten meters which, in spite of the it presents, is not particularly difficult. The rope slides to the right on the wall and we will find many grips for hands and feet on the right side (beware of some very grassy stretches that could give little stability). We leave the dihedral and we climb 2 meters obliquely to the right. climb a couple of vertical meters using a rock behind us in split and then traverse two meters to the left before embarking on a new vertical wall. This wall culminates above with a slight protrusion where it will be necessary to pull on the cable to be able to climb over it with the legs. Once past the ledge, climb up with the rope that zigzags for a few more meters of rocks. We go up a small wall of 4 meters with a few supports and then we go along a rocky ramp to the right towards a chimney. The fracture in which the chimney extends is well-graded and the main difficulties are in the first steps beyond which one proceeds in splitting using excellent artificial grips and good natural grips. The second part of the chimney bends to the left with a smooth slab on the right which will force us to proceed to the left where there will be no grips, it will be necessary to use the rope to go up. Leaving the chimney in strong exposure, we cross a traverse to the right to then gain verticality again, continuing to the right first and then to the left diagonally. We are under another vertical wall with many brackets up to the upper part where a rocky ledge requires more physical effort as it will tend to pull you out slightly.

We leave this physical stretch and walk to the right a traverse that would be inconvenient for people of short stature because it takes place near a short roof. We are in the final phase of the ferrata. We go up a fairly narrow wall on a corner until we reach the upper part of the route composed of some easier rocks. At this point we have practically climb upd the entire Corno del Bene and we are on the upper part of the edge. We walk a short stretch of soil, a horizontal traverse to the right, we climb up the last rocks and we are on the ridge where the equipment ends and with them the Ferrata at Corno del Bene (50 'from the start - about 3h from the parking lot).

Descent:

From the end of the via ferrata we will have to descend northwards along first a track in the meadows then along a path that joins the CAI path 227. At this point we will be able to evaluate whether to go to the right towards Monte Guglielmo (45' from the summit with the Almici hut halfway ) or if you return to the parking area for the outward journey (1h 15' from the summit - 4h 15' total).

Notes:

The equipment is new and in excellent condition, an important detail for a climb so vertical and in some places difficult. The via ferrata is short, exposed and intense. There is a good variety of passages: walls, chimneys, dihedrals, traverses, ledges and short overhanging sections with brackets in the right places to support the progression.

In 2018 the wall of the nearby Corna delle Capre, aided in many ways similar to the Corno del Bene, was opened. The itinerary is vertical, exposed, well aided. If you wanted to go both ways, we suggest following the report from ferrata to the Corna delle Capre, go up that route first, going down on the north side and then reach the Corno del Bene and take that ferrata.

Opportunities:

The Ferrata Corno del Bene is challenging and presents a 2 hour approach. If you wanted to combine this trip with other aided routes in the Brescia area, you could opt for the shorter but more demanding via ferratas in the Lake Idro area: the Via Ferrata Fregio and Ferrata delle Ginestre the Via Ferrata Crench or the easiest Aided path Sasse. If you opt to stay close to Lake Iseo there are very beautiful but a little long itineraries and therefore it might be worth staying overnight in the area. For example, you could choose the Aided path Trentapassi, the Aided path Benedetti or the easiest Aided path of the Waterfalls.