The Ferrata delle Crete Rosse is a short ferrata that allows us to climb from the Italian side to the Aip Crete. The proposed itinerary descends from the Austrian side along a second itinerary of medium difficulty. Rather long but very satisfying and never difficult trip.
The starting point of the Ferrata delle Crete Rosse route to Crete of Aip is the Cason di Lanza Pass (1552 m) in the province of Udine. The pass can be reached both from Paularo and Pontebba with an approximately equal distance in both directions. The conditions of the asphalt road are generally better going up from Pontebba. Pontebba is easily reachable with the A23 from the homonymous exit. Once in the village we must follow to Studena Bassa and continue on the road that runs along the valley for about 13 km up to the pass. Ample parking space with the possibility of both board and lodging. Directions for Google Maps available here.
Aip's Crete (Trogkofel in German) is a mountain in the Carnic Alps which is located on the Italian-Austrian border. It generally climbs in 3 ways: the normal way from the Italian side, from the Ferrata Uiberlacher on the Austrian side and the Ferrata delle red Crete on the Italian side. In this report we consider going up the Ferrata delle Crete Rosse and getting off the Uiberlacher Ferrata on the Austrian side.
To reach the start of the Ferrata delle Crete Rosse we will have to reach the south-eastern slope of the Crete of Aip. From the parking lot at Passo Cason di Lanza (1552 m) we begin climbing the forest behind the large dairy. Climbing along the forest we will notice the signpost 439 which comes off to the right near a hairpin bend. Let's start now to rise more decisively towards the Casera di Val Dolce we reach in about 30 minutes. Clearly visible Creta di Aip straight ahead of us. We return to the previously abandoned forest where we remain until a signposted junction (1750 m - approx 1h from the parking lot). We follow the path which now rises decided in the direction of the eastern and southern wall of Aip Crete. Turning around we will notice on the opposite side of the valley la massive silhouette of the Zermula. We continue eastwards on path 403 at the foot of the steep walls until you reach a signposted junction where holding the left uphill we reach theobvious start of the Ferrata delle Crete Rosse with one metal slab placed a few meters above the start of the equipment (1961 m - 2h 30 'from the parking lot).
The rope attachment is a couple of meters from the rope. We reach the rope without problems and we begin to climb a few vertical meters full of natural grips. We continue on some rocks without difficulty and we reach a small terrace on mixed grass pebbles. We continue on the way reaching a gully with the cable on the right full of good holds. The part in the middle of the chimney it narrows is, keeping the right, we go out from the narrowest part and we continue in the upper part of the chimney. This step is very climbable. In this section we will notice the rock with a reddish color that gives rise to the name of the route.
Coming out of the chimney we go up a vertical wall and we reach a new one initially quite narrow chimney. Excellent grips on the left side of the crack while the cable runs to the right. We leave the crack with the cable that continues to the left taking us to the base of well-grabbed rocks. Let's go up one vertical wall with some brackets and with a short inclined ramp we carry on a small balcony where we meet the book of signatures. Let us share verticals in good exposure along a groove that deposits us at end of metal equipment (2095 m - 30 'from the start).
We follow the track and find ourselves on thesummit slabau. The path unravels between rocks and meadows along a slope to the right. The view opens on the Austrian part of the valley and on thearrival of the cable car. We reach some rocks and follow the path that, passing the state line, leads us to the high part of the mountain. We meet a crossroads where to the right we descend via the Uiberlachersteig Ferrata which we will use on return. We continue towards the obvious summit cross. After a few meters we reach the metal cross of the Crete of Aip and the summit book (2279 m - 30 'from the end of the equipment - 1h from the start - 3h 30' from the parking lot).
From the summit let's go back to the crossroads met uphill with Austrian signs with directions for the Ferrata Uiberlacker (5 '). We will keep the left and we will begin the descent initially on the path, then with some passages of rocks we reach the first equipment. The first descent we face is a easy chimney and then, after a ledge and some rocks we reach one series of ladders. We go down along a gully and then we reach the lower part of the ferrata that ends with alast, short lineup (45 'from the summit). We follow the path on the hillside, a little exposed until we reach a saddle in the Austrian territory. Keep to the right and cross the border. In short, we graft onto path 403 which we will keep to the right reaching the junction of the outward journey (30 'from the end of the equipment).
Back to the approach path we reach the car park (1h 45 'from the junction on path 403 for the Ferrata Crete Rosse - 3h from the summit - 6h total).
The Ferrata delle Crete Rosse is a medium difficulty via ferrata, pleasant as it is very climbing on good rock, full of holds. The ascent always presents contained difficulties and rises taking advantage of the natural weaknesses of the mountain (chimneys, gully and rocks). The hike is rather long but not excessively difficult and allows you to follow a second interesting path downhill on the Austrian side.
La Ferrata delle Crete Rosse alla Creta di Aip è stata costruita dal CAI Pontebba e fu inaugurata nel 1980 e ristrutturata significativamente nel 2001 sostituendo le catene con cavi metallici.
From the Cason di Lanza Pass you can take two other interesting aided routes: the Ferrata of the Monte Zermula and the Ferrata at the Zuc della Guardia, both medium difficulty routes. The Carnic Alps offer other interesting opportunities both to the east (Via Ferrata Contin and Ferrata Torre Clampil near the Passo di Pramollo) and to the west (Via Ferrata Senza Confini, Steinbergerweg and Cuestalta near the Passo di Monte Croce Carnico).