Review of the climb to Forcella Porton with the Ferrata del Velo. Itinerary with modest difficulties that climbs in a beautiful environment and returns with a ring tour via the short Ferrata della Vecia.
The starting point of the itinerary for the Ferrata del Velo following the itinerary we propose is Malga Civertaghe in the municipality of San Martino di Castrozza in the province of Trento. Malga Civertaghe can be reached after a stretch of forest road of about 3 km. From San Martino di Castrozza we take the state road towards the south and near the fourth bend we will notice a road that continues straight ahead. We take it and follow the partially aided road but in fair condition. We reach a junction of another road and we keep the right uphill until we reach the car park at Malga Civertaghe. Directions for Google Maps available here.
The Ferrata del Velo is often traveled downhill in an itinerary that includes the nearby Ferrata del Porton. If you wish to follow that itinerary, our report from the Portata Ferrata is exhaustive. In this itinerary we start from Malga Ciavertaghe and go up to the Madonna del Velo Hut, walk up the Ferrata del Velo uphill reaching Forcella Porton and descend with the Ferrata della Vecia to return to Malga Ciavertaghe.
From Malga Ciavertighe (1375 m) go up towards the clear walls of the Cima Val di Roda following the path in the woods with trail marker 713. The path climbs modestly, passes next to the ruins of the Malga Sopra Ronz and continues uphill. We come to a crossroads where our path 713 keeps the left uphill now steep while the path 724 continues southward halfway up. We keep the path 713 that now comes out of the wood and proceeds on stony ground. We reach a crossroads: on the right the path 713 continues towards the Rifugio Velo della Madonna while on the left the track that we will use to return towards the Ferrata della Vecia comes off. We remain on path 713 than with a path in constant ascent and some easy aided sections lead us to Madonna del Velo Hut (2358 m - 2h 15 'from the parking lot).
From the hut we follow the obvious ones and go up first on scree then on rock we reach the start of the Ferrata del Velo with San Martino di Castrozza behind us. Let's start with one diagonal ramp at the end of which we see straight to us the continue the Alta Via. We climb diagonally to the left then right again into a passage a little athletic to reach the first change of the way. Now let's climb vertically on one wall aided with metal switches and a slightly overhanging passage. We continue along a diagonal one leaning slab to which perhaps follows more adrenaline-filled passage than the route. After a slightly downhill section we begin a initially traversed horizontally then change into diagonal with good exposure.
We therefore reach a 3 meter jump aided with brackets followed by an aided vertical section. The difficulties of this passage rather exposed they are reduced to a minimum by the abundant presence of metal crevices and natural holds. After a gully we reach one edge that we go up first on its right side then left.
We are now entering into a new groove supported where in the upper part we meet new metal bracketa. Let's start now final section of the aided part of the route. Let's face one vertical partition wall followed by a first traverse. Gradually the traverse widens and we begin a stretch of aided path which rises diagonally until the end of the metal equipment.
We proceed with a section on path in modest climb until you come to a series of switchbacks and continue uphill until you reach the characteristic Porton saddle where the ascent route of the Ferrata del Velo ends (2460 m - 1h from the Madonna del Velo Hut - 3h 15 'total). Superb view from the Portcella del Porton with Sasso Maor and Cima Madonna to dominate the path just climbed.
Just before reaching the characteristic Forcella del Porton (2460 m) there is a small sign with clear indications both to take the Gusella Aided path (signpost 714) and to go down to Val della Vecia (signpost 739). We follow downhill along a valley initially on a stony bottom then gradually grassy the path until we reach theupper start of the Ferrata della Vecia. The short Ferrata della Vecia helps us to descend a vertical drop of about 50 meters mainly with one long series of metal bracketa. Came down the changes we follow the path to the right that joins path 713 along the approach path. At this point we walk back along the path followed by the approach and return to the parking lot (2h from Forcella Porton - 5h 15 'total).
The Ferrata del Velo is a medium difficulty via ferrata that does not have single, technically difficult passages. The road is perfectly aided and the most demanding passages are aided with abundant and ample metallic bracket that considerably reduces the difficulties of the route.
As mentioned in the report the Ferrata del Velo is often combined and traveled downhill after the Ferrata del Porton. It is possible, in a 2-day itinerary, to travel on the Aided path Gusella ascending to Forcella Stephen. For a shorter circular route it is possible to combine the Ferrata del Velo with the Ferrata della Vecia downhill.
In general, the area of the Pale di San Martino is an area full of very interesting itineraries, although, with one exception, quite long. The only exception is the Ferrata del Canalone, short itinerary and very challenging via ferrata. Among the other Via Ferratas that we point out are: the Ferrata Bolver Lugli, the Buzzatti, the Gabitta d'Ignoti, the Aided path del Cacciatore, the Ferrata dell'Orsa and the Ferrata Stella Alpina.
Approach: 2:15 h
Ferrata: 1:00 h
Itinerary: 5:15 h
Ferrata height difference: 200 m
Route difference: 1085 m
Max altitude: 2460 m
Length: 17.6 Km
Mountain Group: Dolomites of the Pale di San Martino