Review of the airy Ferrata della Memoria (literally "The Ferrata of Memory") al Vajont. The ferrata is recent, excellently aided, full of metallic brackets and demanding passages. The via ferrata rises vertically on the Vajont Gorge, the scene of a tragedy in the 60s that has indelibly marked the area. Very aerial via ferrata which requires good training due to the high number of vertical passages.
The starting point of the itinerary is located along the road that connects Longarone (Belluno) with Erto (Pordenone). Coming from the south along State Road 51, as soon as you arrive in Longarone we follow to the right the indications ascending to Erto. We cross the Piave, we follow the road that initially continues northwards and begins a series of switchbacks. At the sixth bend we will notice a small road that goes down to the right. We follow it and park after a couple of minutes in a large open space. Directions for Google Maps available here.
The approach is well marked with abundant signs that show us the way. We leave the showcase in the parking lot following the sign on the right. We follow the path in the woods up to get to a first gallery. It is advisable to wear the helmet and the via ferrata kit and it is necessary to have a torch with you. We travel the tunnel of about 100 meters and we go out into a ledge to the left. We cover it and reach a second, shorter (approx. 40 m) tunnel at the end of which the Ferrata della Memoria of the Vajont Dam (15' from the parking lot) officially begins.
The ferrata begins with a ledge to the left. The cable acts as a handrail e the ledge on bottom mixed earth and rock it is initially wide and easy. We continue along the ledge going around a corner and then reaching a new one side of the gorge and the space for the feet is getting thinner. We pass next to another gallery beyond which the space for the feet ceases and we must face a traverse airy on solid metal pegs. Finish the traverse e resumes the ledge, now definitely wide with trees to our right. Finish the ledge again and go around an edge with a new sideways always on brackets over which a short section of ledge and we reach one robust metallic ladder of a about ten meters where the actual via ferrata begins.
We leave the ladder and bend to the right on strong exposure. Let's start now difficulty of the route. Let us take advantage of some present and present changes we climb on a smooth wall looking for the few grips present until you reach a small balcony. The cable continues to the right up a short traverse before starting again decided vertically. The wall is rather smooth and also in this situation change first, brackets e handles then present they help the progression, otherwise very difficult. The rock is smooth and this first part of the ferrata is athletic and difficult to climb. We continue vertically with some vertical tears and narrow terraces where it is possible to stop before leaving and finally reach a larger terrace where it is possible to breathe before continuing on.
We walk a series of rocks and connecting sections without difficulty reaching a dihedral of about ten meters. The cable rises to the left running on a smooth wall with a total lack of supports, except for an artificial bracket. This is probably the most demanding step on the route and, although short (4 meters), it requires strength due to the almost non-existent possibility of climbing. After the difficult stretch, we meet more support on the right side where there are some natural grips and brackets that help to go up the second part of this demanding section of the route. We leave the dihedral and meet a new ledge to the left. The ledge is short and after a while the cable starts again vertically on a wall, however, easier than the previous ones. We climb without too much difficulty alternating rocks and leaps in this pleasant part of the route. However, pay attention to the unstable ground, especially when wet. We reach a very smooth slab where there is one long series of metal bracketa. We go up the wall and reach one ledge to the left. The ledge, initially wide then narrower, ends near a traverse.
We start with the diagonal traverse which is followed by a very exposed vertical section that leads us to a new earthy ledge. We continue to the left along the ledge. We reach one new rather long vertical wall that we go up again with the usual abundant presence of handles and brackets. This thirty-meter wall has a dirty bottom and prudence uphill to avoid losing grip. We continue in the climb reaching a traverse in strong exposure. We continue uphill again bending to the right near a groove in the rock. Now let's use the more indented rock as well as many handles along the line of ascent. We climb up to reach a new traverse aerial where we use some foot brackets before finishing it on a mixed rock-soil section. We conclude this section of the route with a new section of about twenty vertical meters with handles in abundance and good grips.
Let's face the sixth and last section of the route. We climb a long series of rocks and leaps more supported where it is largely possible to proceed by climbing and using less traction cable. We bend to the left, we face a diagonal traverse and resume at climb facing a succession of rocky leaps of medium-low difficulty. Let's now go on a lgrease and broad ledge to the right reaching the second ladder with which we ascend an otherwise extremely difficult rocky roof. Let's finish the ladder and we go back to the last meters with which the airy Ferrata della Memoria al Vajont ends (2h from the start - 2h 15 'from the parking lot).
For descent we follow the track with signpost No. 380 up to a crossroads:
The Ferrata della Memoria is a recent itinerary dedicated to tragedy that hit the countries underlying the dam in 1963. The equipment is recent and in excellent condition. A singular feature are some slabs present along the path they indicate altitude and gps coordinates in case of alert of rescue. Along the way we will find ourselves walking along ledges that inevitably run parallel to traits just traveled. It is important not to move stones and debris that could fall on the following hikers.
The ferrata generally polarizes opinions. Many hikers find it excessively physical with many difficult passages where it is necessary to pull excessively on the cable or do not touch the rock using the abundant pegs and handles present. Opposite opinion is an adrenaline-fueled, exposed, athletic track that requires strength and training. Both opinions can be shared at least in part. It is an itinerary that recalls some recent via ferratas (ex: Sci Club 18) for verticality and required commitment. Definitely an intense itinerary that must be followed if you are in good shape and have no problems with strong exposure. The difficulties decrease considerably in the second half of the itinerary.
The Ferrata della Memoria al Vajont extends in an area rich in other aided routes. Near Longarone we meet 2 short ferratas included in the itinerary with approach and short return: the Ferrata to the Falchi Wall and the Ferrata della Val Gallina.
From Longarone you can head towards the Civetta meeting in increasing order the difficulty Via Ferrata Sora el Sass, the Ferrata degli Alleghesi, the Tissi and the Costantini alla Moiazza.
Going down towards the valley on the east side of the valley we meet the Schiara group with 4 via ferratas: the Sperti, the Berti, the Mormol and the Zacchi. All rather challenging itineraries included within very long and tiring treks.
Moving towards Agordo, you can reach the starting point of the challenging route ascending to the Agner with the Ferrata Stella Alpina.
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93.deluxe
01/11/2020 at 15:52Fatta ieri 31-10; preciso che si è trattato della mia prima ferrata ‘di un certo livello’; avvicinamento attraverso 2 gallerie nelle quali è essenziale avere un frontalino e stare attenti a dove mettere i piedi per la gran presenza di acqua. La ferrata l’ho trovata abbastanza tecnica, ben attrezzata, senza particolari difficoltà, tranne che in un paio di passaggio all’inizio e a metà salita; in diversi punti inoltre bisogna affidarsi anche alla forza di braccia, motivo per il quale, pur non essendo molto lunga rispetto ad altre, la consiglierei soprattutto a persone mediamente allenate. Noi con calma ci abbiamo impiegato 1h20′. Consiglio se possibile di parcheggiare una seconda macchina a Casso per il rientro.
Luca Massignani
11/10/2020 at 11:24Bella ferrata in un luogo ricco di spunti storici. Ieri l’ho fatta per la terza volta e me la sono proprio goduta…adesso che sono più preparato. La prima volta è stata tutta una tirata di cavo e mi sono venute le vesciche alle mani. Ieri invece il pomeriggio abbiamo fatto anche qualche tiro alla falesia di Erto. Morale: la ferrata della Memoria è molto impegnativa se fatta da persone non allenate ed è difficile che queste si divertano in un percorso così verticale ed esposto, specie la prima parte.
Viceversa per chi ha una certa esperienza, il percorso è godibile e non proibitivo.
valentino rossetti
11/09/2020 at 12:32Fatta il 11/09/20
Il primo che dice che non ha fatto fatica a salire, merita la fustigazione.
È una ferrata non molto impegnativa dal punto di vista tecnico. La via è nuova e ben attrezzata, con poca varietà. Quello che la rende meravigliosa e:
è per la stragrande maggioranza arrampicabile
È sempre strapiombante
È panoramicamente fantastica.
Non è adatta a chi ha poca forza e poca resistenza, in tutta la salita avrò trovato un solo posto dove riposare. Ferrata che si da interamente a braccia.
Unico lato negativo: il rientro. L’opzione più corta dopo lo sgancio, è da direzione diga. Da lì 15 minuti di asfalto per raggiungere L’ auto.
Consiglio: arrivare con due auto e percorrere la strada da erto a Longarone, parcheggiare un auto alla diga e poi scendere lungo i tornanti fino all’attacco
P.s per chi percorre la via per la prima volta
Qyando entrare nella grotta, non uscite alla prima uscita a destra. Li c!3 un cavo che non porta a nulla.
Dovete percorrere tutta la grotta fino a raggiungere la fine e trovare il primo segnale a rombo del 118
buccimirko3
04/09/2020 at 11:14ferrata bellissima e suggestiva, con una vista mozzafiato, in alcuni punti un po fisica, ben attrezzata, da NON fare nelle ore calde perche tutta al sole,si percorre in un’unica direzione, finita la ferrata in 1h e 20min circa, si ritorna al parcheggio dell attacco tramite un sentiero che ovvia alle strade
Vincenzo
11/08/2020 at 20:27Bella ferrata, verticale, esposta ma non troppo difficile. La prima parte è la più impegnativa.
Libero Forestale
11/08/2020 at 07:17Ferrata molto esposta e suggestiva. Da fare al mattino presto o fine pomeriggio per il caldo i quanto la quota massimo è di 800m. Segnaletica lungo il percorso con attrezzatura in ottimo stato. (2015 la sua realizzazione). Ferrata tecnica e come già detto esposta. Molto utile da fare per capire le proprie capacità fisiche. Corta nella sua durata. Andata e ritorno in 1’20”.
EC83
03/10/2019 at 16:32Ferrata difficile ma di moderna realizzazione con cavi tesi e in ottimo stato. Breve ma piacevole. Aumenta l’interesse la vicina diga. Suggestiva l’esposizione sulla valle.
eu.miotto
22/09/2019 at 00:49Beautiful via ferrata not to be underestimated, if you don't climb well with a bit of technique it can be tiring because you risk using your arms to pull on the cable, but with a little climbing technique you can go very well in fluidity.
Beautiful exposure and held very well as maintenance of cables and brackets.
mariomossone43
13/08/2019 at 15:57Traveled on 8/8/19.
Ferrata that all fans of this kind of activity should take. Indeed, the interesting technical and landscape aspects are joined by that of memory and reflection on the tragedy that on 9/10/1963 caused the death of about 2000 people and that upset the whole of Italy. Longarone was almost completely destroyed while Erto and Casso were also killed and injured.
For this reason, at the end of the via ferrata, I would like to continue towards the town of Casso, which still retains the memory of those terrible days in the homes and its few residents. From the country it is also possible to more easily realize what happened that damned evening.
For the descent you retrace the Troi de Sant'Antoni trail (393) and, if you do not want to go through the dam, continue on the path 395a until the deviation, on the left, for Codissago which, in short, enters the SR 251.
From here there are two possibilities:
1- descend along the SR and, at the second bend, take the short road leading to the parking lot;
2- go up the road for about 700 m to the traffic light and, with a steep path on the right, go down directly to the parking lot.
zedred
05/08/2019 at 17:50Made last year;
The via ferrata is not particularly long but demanding, especially for a beginner or for those who are not particularly strong.
If the cable is not used, the difficulty, especially on some walls, is quite high, the holds are there but it requires a good climbing technique, if done using the cable it is feasible but by eye requires a good physical effort.
Fun exposure, a place full of historical significance, absolutely to be avoided during the hottest hours ... ..less insolation and unusual liquid loss: DD
Lorenzo Vianello
17/07/2019 at 20:11Made last year.
Given the context and the type of rock, I would not recommend it to beginners.
The difficulty is relative, it didn't seem so difficult to me as so many said.
Excellent for training for those who want to improve
Alessandro Iotti
14/07/2019 at 21:02The ferrata in the first half is physical and not very climbable. A couple of steps are hard and need strength. From the middle onwards it becomes very climbable, pleasant. Exposed but never extreme. The context in which it takes place is particular and suggestive in some respects.
crsdavide
01/07/2019 at 09:54It was my second via ferrata and I liked it a lot. There are short overhanging sections. Because of the summer heat, I would recommend taking it during the cool hours of the day.
tommy.76
24/04/2019 at 11:21Nice and vertical via ferrata in the gorge ... not too long and feasible even in mid-seasons
Bansu
23/04/2019 at 10:44Long and technical via ferrata, very exposed and with some passages to be reckoned with. New and well-tensioned cables, excellent experience for those who want to try their hand at something quite challenging.