Via Ferrata Buzzati at Cimerlo

Introduction:

Review of the challenging trip to Cimerlo going up the Ferrata Buzzati. Historical itinerary in the Pale di San Martino with a second demanding and exposed section. Climb in a wonderful environment, full of pinnacles and Dolomite landscapes. Descent including an aided path.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary for the Ferrata Dino Buzzati al Cimerlo is located in Val Canali in the town of Prati Fosne. To reach Val Canali we will have to take State Road 347 of Passo Duran which connects the eastern slope of the Dolomites of the Pale di San Martino with the western side. Coming from Fiera di Primero (Trento) we follow for about 5 Km towards Agordo up to a wide hairpin bend with clear indications for Val Canali. We follow the road going up the Val Canali, we walk all the way up to follow a wide hairpin bend to the left and we continue on the now narrow and sometimes dirt road until we reach the Hotel Casera. Near the hotel we will see an intersection of roads and keep the right uphill to the parking lot. Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

The parking lot (1319 m) is located in Fosne in a beautiful area with green meadows and mountain huts. In the background in a northerly direction we see the soaring up top of Cimerlo. We start going up the dirt road heading north with a few bends starting to gradually gain altitude. There signage along the way is very present and we must follow the 747 trail markers which direct us in constant ascent into the woods towards the southern reaches of Cimerlo. We leave the forest and we start the climb along a gully on a stony ground that rises steep and decisive. Not without effort, we gain the end of the first steep canyon so to start a second gully which leads us to the start of the ferrata (2120 m - 2h from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata:

The Ferrata Buzzati begins going up a fairly lean wall diagonally full of natural foothills at the end of which we meet a first aided vertical jump with abundant metallic brackets. This leap up the cable fold to the right inside a gully which has new metal fittings at the top. We continue going up a short chimney on the left side and then the climb becomes easier along it some ledges, at times exposed, and sections of aided path on rocks inside a gully.

Continuing on the easy stretch of the via ferrata on aided path and rocks there we move to the next section, certainly more demanding than the previous one. Looking at the conformation of the section we can see a recent change in the route:

• on the left one narrow carving in the rock where the via ferrata used to climb up a demanding chimney. This climb was very narrow, tiny and climbed through some ladders and with passages where to dose strength and agility. In 2016 the metal cables were still present inside this section of the route despite presenting sign of the years.
• on the right, outside, climb a long vertical slab that forms a dihedral with the wall. The road now passes on the right side outside the chimney going up the dihedral exposure. This section of the route is new and the equipment in perfect condition.

The report describes the new current route, or standing outside the chimney going up the dihedral.

We reach the dihedral after having climbed a stretch of aided path that goes up one ramp and then to the right a gully. Present some brackets on the left side of the groove to climb a few more pronounced rocky leaps. Passing the section where you enter the slot-chimney we bypass the rock blade and we find ourselves under the key passage of the route. A long and exposed dihedral with a steep overhang in the middle. We begin the climb initially supported then vertical on the left side of the dihedral. About halfway we will have to proceed with caution and move to the right side of the dihedral in strong exposure. We then go up one long series of changes with cable that runs over a crack in the rock. After about ten meters on the right side of the dihedral there we return to the left side going up the rock blade aided with the brackets in strong exposure. We leave the chimney and soon end the equipment on the summit meadows (1h 15 'from the start).

We are now on the summit meadows del Cimerlo. Following the trail we go up in a zig zag pattern up to the eastern shoulder of the Cimerlo (2480 m - 20 'from the end of the equipment - about 1h 40' from the start - about 3h 40 'total). For the climb to the Cimerlo to the left consider 15 minutes.

Descent:

From the eastern shoulder of Cimerlo we begin a stretch of steep aided descent. We go down immediately some steep rocks which leads to a groove. From the top where we are on the right side of the gully we move to the left side to complete the descent using a stuck boulder to move from one side to the other. We continue the descent on the gully on a rather landslide background but always aided. Let's go down a couple more aided vertical jumps and some rocks and now we are on a path that runs some under the ridge which connects Cima Stanga with Cimerlo. Then we reach a crossroads (30 'from the end of the equipment):

• to the right the Aided path del Cacciatore ("of the Hunter") descends (2h) and subsequently along an easy path to the parking lot (1h - ca 7h 30 'total),
• straight you reach the Rifugio Velo della Madonna downhill (30 ') and then go along the Aided Path Depaoli (3h - about 8h total).

The report considers the descent to the hunter's fastest aided path (read report here). From the junction we follow to the right in descent with signpost 742. The Hunter's Aided path includes some stretches aided of average difficulty level and leads us to eastern base of Sass Maor. We will reach a crossroads: we keep to the right taking the path 719 which mainly on a slight slope and between slight ups and downs leads us back to the parking lot.

Notes:

The Ferrata Buzzati can be divided into two large sections: the first section is to be considered medium-easy, the second with the long and dihedral airy is to be considered medium-difficult and exposed. The equipment has been recently renovated and is in excellent condition. The itinerary is long, with long, steep and sometimes difficult approach and return so don't underestimate it. The area is marvellous and less touristy than other more-known routes in the Pale di San Martino. Finally, pay attention to the non-trivial downhill section under the Cimerlo.

Storia:

La Ferrata Dino Buzzati è stata attrezzata nel 1977 dalla guida alpina Gabriele Franceschini a ricordare il famoso scrittore e giornalista Dino Buzzati, scomparso nel 1973, e grande appassionato di montagna e alpinismo. Celebri sono le cronache di Buzzati delle imprese alpinistiche dell'epoca. Per gli appassionati di lettura, molti sono i libri consigliati di Buzzati, definito a più riprese il "Kafka italiano". Tra le sue molte opere spiccano "Il deserto dei tartari", "Il segreto del bosco vecchio" e "Barnado delle montagne".

Opportunities:

As indicated in this report, this via ferrata is often combined with the aided Hunter's Downhill Trail. If instead you want to reach the Rifugio Velo della Madonna you can take other routes in the area. For example it is possible to go up to the Portcella with the Via Ferrata of Velo and continue on Aided path Gusella or go down the area Porton Ferrata up to Rifugio Pradidali. Then proceeding in the direction of the Pedrotti Hut you can reach the Via Ferrata Gabitta d'Ignoti at Cima Vezzana. If inserted in multi-day itineraries it can also be combined with Via Ferrata Bolver Lugli, to the Ferrata delle Fiamme Gialle or at Via Ferrata del Canalone.