Ferrata Bovero

Introduction:

The Ferrata Ettore Bovero at Col Rosà is a short but demanding via ferrata, aerial and varied in its passages. The itinerary requires good physical preparation and absence of vertigo being very vertical. Some passages of the first degree not protected in the second section of the via ferrata. Magnificent panorama from the summit.

Starting location:

The starting point is the parking lot at the entrance of the Campsite Olympia in the town of Fiames north of Cortina d'Ampezzo. Reached Fiames we follow the indications that will make us cross the bridge over the Boite Torrent. After the bridge we turn to the right and soon we are at the campsite where we park externally. Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

From the parking lot at the campsite we follow the broad forest with signpost 417 rising to the north. We continue on the path noting to our left the Col Rosà that stands impressive. We reach Pian de Ra Spines (1301 m - 25 'from parking) where we take to the left the path 408 which climbs steadily into the woods. The climb is constant and steep until it meets Passo Posporcora (1711 m - 1h 15 'from the parking lot).

We ignore the junction for the 409 which branches off to the left and we continue on the 408 until we meet the deviation indicated on the right for the 447 following the signs for the Col Rosà and the Ferrata Bovero. We reach the start of the ferrata after a steep climb on rocky steps, ledges and rocks (1950 m - 1h 45 'total). We dress the harness on a small terrace before climbing these last ridges that lead us to the beginning of the equipment a few minutes after the metal slab.

Via Ferrata:

The via ferrata starts near a dihedral with scarce holds. The climb is immediately quite challenging and in the upper part of this first section we must wedge ourselves into one narrow gully. We pass it on the right side and we are on a small terrace. We cover a stretch of path without a rope. We are now under one rather gradated inclined slab that we go back up easily. We are on a new terrace from which a vertical wall starts at a new dihedral. As the previous it is rather smooth and has no holds on the right side while on the left it offers some greater opportunities for support near a crack. We continue uphill with strong exposure in a characteristic passage. The cable runs inside a rather narrow crack. We stop on a small terrace on the right side and we will have to go in search of holds to get up a couple of meters and reach the first valid footholds. The cable runs on the right side of the chimney. Let's go through this challenging section vertical on terraced rock. We find ourselves facing another dihedral with rope on the right side. There are some good holds on the left side and with a couple of athletic passages, in split we climb up the dihedral, probably the most difficult passage of the route. We reach a panoramic pulpit at the end of the dihedral before moving to the right on an exposed edge.

Let's start by facing the edge diagonally to the right and then in a straight line with a strong exposure we go up about ten meters. The cable now bends to the right of the corner passing diagonally inside a crack that we will climb not without anxiety, looking for grips both on the right and on the left of the crack. This step is technical and aerial. Pass the diagonal slit in the cable proceed vertically going up a jagged but very vertical wall always near a crack in the rock. We climb near a bulge of the rock that we bypass on its left side before a exposed sideways to the left that bypasses an edge. From the edge we climb vertically in strong exposure first to the left up to a balcony then to the right on one wall more attached but always vertical. We meet under a roof that we go back to with a challenging passage looking for handholds in yet another crack before going out on the upper rocks. We now climb diagonally to the left in a less demanding passage than the last with which the first section of the via ferrata ends and with it some equipment.

We now face a section of connecting path climbing some rocks between rocks and pines in the direction of the last section of the via ferrata. Follow the path and climb some small rocks (1st degree) until you meet the metal cable under a rocky roof that momentarily resumes to rise a more pronounced leap. We continue on the path among the pines in the direction of obvious summit cross straight to us. We climb the path until we meet a series of on the left of a dark chimney large metal brackets. The we climb assuring ourselves of them and we continue on the path for about ten meters meeting again one series of brackets with which we climb the left of a dihedral. We continue on a stretch of path without protections with which we climb a few rather gradual rocky jumps with which we enter a small gully. Always on the left side we meet some brackets that help us to climb the most pronounced leaps reaching after some rocks (1st degree) the exit of the groove on summit slabau of the Col Rosa ("Pink Peak") (2166 m - 1h from the start - 2h 45 'total) with magnificent 360 degree view on surrounding dolomite groups.

Descent:

From the summit of Col Rosà you start to descend into northbound following the signs of the CAI 447. We go down on the evident path reaching a detrital gully that we go down in part to then cut to half shore in the direction of a singular and evident rocky tower reached which we go down steeply in the wood. The descent is steep and leads us to the valley where we graft onto the broad forest (CAI 417 - 1300 m - 1h 30 'from the summit). Keep to the right and return to the car park (30 'from the junction on CAI 417 - 2h from the summit - 5h total).

Notes:

The Ferrata Bovero is an intense and exposed via ferrata. The short duration (1h) should not be misleading as it is an almost vertical climb with some interesting passages between dihedrals, chimneys and traverses that must not be taken lightly. The layout of the first section is vertical and soon becomes exposed. The rock alternates very well climbing sections with points where it is rather smooth and offers few stable holds. The equipment is not in excellent condition. The riveting is rather reduced with sometimes excessive distances between the nails with the result of a possible very high fall factor. A couple of points the rope is loose and for such a vertical ferrata can create some more difficulties. Beware of returning to a couple of exposed points. Itinerary without intermediate support points or water sources.

Opportunities:

The Ferrata Bovero extends on the western side of the Valle del Boite. At the height of Fiames on the opposite slope rises the Ferrata Strobel at Punta Fiames in Punta Fiames. Always on the Pomagagnon salt la Ferrata della Terza Cengia where, however, the recommended route starts from Cortina d'Ampezzo. Continuing north on State Road 51 towards Dobbiaco we meet the Ferrata Giovanni and Barbara Dalaiti at the Fanes Falls. Descending towards Cortina d'Ampezzo we meet the demanding one Ferrata Sci Club 18 to Monte Faloria.