Introduction:
The recent Ferrata della Falconera is located in a vertical wall above Varallo in the province of Vercelli. The via ferrata is challenging and athletic. Due to exposure, the presence of overhanging and athletic stretches should not be underestimated and should therefore be recommended for experienced hikers in good conditions. In this type of climb a quickdraw or lanyard is definitely recommended.
Starting location:
The starting point of the itinerary is Varallo, in the province of Vercelli. Arriving in the village, park in the large square near the "Casa Serena" rest home.
Directions for Google Maps available here.
Approach:
Once left the car in the parking, you cross the road towards a muletrack and a showcase which explains the route. You walk uphill for about 10 minutes until a crossroad in the woods which leads us to an easy aided path, then to a sign of the beginning of the Ferrata Falconera (20' from the parking)
It has recently been added a bench close the beginning for wearing the harness. Despite confortable, it happens sometimes that stones fall from the top therefore we reccomend to wear the helmet already on the way there.
Via Ferrata:
From the beginning you go a couple of meters horizontal to the right then up on a first leaned wall bending gradually to the right. Soon begin the abundant brackets which leads us above helping gain height and exposure giving quickly a taste of the route with a overhanging wall. We will come to a traverse to the right, intially horizontal then diagonal, the "Traverso della chiappa tremante". Once ended the traverse we come to a ledge. We walk on the ledge passing by the "Grota del Fico" leading us under a first vertical wall more chellenging. The wall walks vertically a slab towarda a rocky roof. Under the roof you will find wires on both our sides. We climb around the roof on the left side in a passage reminding of a dihedral. Very nice the view in the clear days on the 4000 mountains - here comes the name "Cengia dei 4000".
We now in growing exposure and come to a ledge - the Cengia della Campana - as the name suggests there is a metal bell. The ledge leads us to the right under a vertical wall where we face the two most challenging section of the route. We climb up the vertical wall coming under a rocky roof requiring us to proceed quickly so to avoid tiring our arms. The passage is short - 2 meters - however chellening and exposed. We come up this first roof then we proceed vertically following the brackets and soon we reach another similar roof to the previous one however with the peculiarity of flagging you towards the outside. We climb it in growing exposure and with a physical effort and then we are in the last part of this hard section. We reach a panoramic terrace where we can rest and enjoy the view. Both the overhanging passages can be demanding therefore we reccomend a lanyard to rest.
Let's go up a couple of walls easier than the previous ones, we begin a stepped ridge in some part rocky in other grassy, and then we reach the suspended bridge: "Ponte Via col Vento". As it happens in other routes in Pedimont, such as the Ferrata Detomasi in Cimalegna, the bridge is with 4 wires and rather stable, however the ropes around the bridge poses some difficulties in the progression. It is also possible to pass the bridge standing on one of the extenral wires. Once passed the bridge, we proceed in an easy but exposed horizontal traverse to the right and we are close to one of the last hard passages of the route. We climb up a vertical wall, facing some rocks then a couple of rocky jumps, coming then to the "Cresta del Traguardo" which, after few easy passages however well aided, leads us to the end of the route . We are the signature book Via Ferrata Falconera (2h from the start - 2h 20 'total).
Descent:
The most immediate descent path to Varallo is to take the 636C path in a north-eastern direction, then take the 636B in the direction of the Scarpia lake. Once at the lake, take path 636 downhill towards Varallo (40 'from the start - 3h total).
If you would like to eat something, you can use one of the 3 stone tables available along the descend in less than 10 minutes from the end of the ferrata.
Notes:
The Falconera is perfectly aided. It is physical rather than technically difficult. You climb vertically most of the time with a couple of hard passages. In July 2020, it has been lanuched è elevata lungo tutto il percorso. I fittoni sono numerati e questo può aiutare nella localizzazione in caso di incidente.
A inizio 2020 è stata inaugurata the night lightning of the route. This features is unique in Italy. At these two links (1 and 2) are available in Italia more info on how to enjoy it, days and times of openings. The lightning system is generally turned on Saturdays at the times indicated in the links above and close to certain festivities. Please note, front torch is needed in order to descent after the route.
In order to overcome the hard sections of this via ferrata, we reccomend you to read out article "How to temporarily take a pause in a Via Ferrata".
Opportunities:
The natural continuation of the Ferrata Falconera is the Via Ferrata Partusac, whose beginning is near the end of the ferrata along the return path. If you wanted to take another via ferrata in the area, you could opt for the Via Ferrata Picasass (1 hour drive towards Lake Maggiore) or the via ferrata in the Biella area: la Via Ferrata Balma, the Via Ferrata Nito Staich or the Aided path of the Infernone.
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mauro1960
19/09/2020 at 16:46La Falconera è una bella ferrata, confermo in pieno quello che è scritto nelle note sulla descrizione della Via. Difficile alle Gobbe di Cammello dove è richiesta un po’ di fatica alle braccia per via della contro pendenza, il cordino di servizio di sicurezza è necessario per tirare un po’ il fiato. Per il rientro a Varallo ho preferito il rientro a piedi sulla strada provinciale da Civiasco. Più sicuro e mono sdrucciolevole del sentiero nel 636a nel bosco.
Gabriele Vecco
25/07/2020 at 14:11Se vi piacciono le ferrate verticali , avete trovato quella che fa per voi , quasi sempre con massima esposizione , divertente, molto panoramica, attrezzata con abbondanza di staffe.
E’ classificata come difficile, ma se avete una buona forma fisica e forza nelle braccia non avrete sicuramente nessun problema
Michel Moalli
26/06/2020 at 17:05Premesso che non sono solito fare ferrate, (questa è stata la terza) di per se non è una brutta ferrata, mi è dispiaciuto fosse in molti tratti sovra attrezzata, tratti che sarebbero stati facilmente arrampicabili con giusto qualche aiuto erano invece scale a pioli, per altro spesso i pioli erano a mio parere messi nella posizione “sbagliata”, se la parete ti porta a sbandierare il piolo andrebbe messo in modo da controbilanciare per non costringermi a un movimento inutilmente brutto e scomodo (dove possibile ho preferito utilizzare i piedi sulla roccia). Per il resto la ferrata è in una zona molto comoda, panoramica ed esposta, fisicamente e tecnicamente non molto impegnativa, immagino sia piuttosto suggestiva di notte.
paolinselva
23/06/2020 at 10:39Di certo non è una ferrata per principianti; scoprire che non ce la fai quando sei sotto le “gobbe di cammello” può diventare un tantino imbarazzante.
Molto bella la salita con un panorama sempre visibile. È decisamente ben attrezzata e sicura. Presenta alcune occasioni per riposarsi ma è consigliabile una longe per poterlo fare nei punti più difficili.
Ci sono almeno tre punti in cui è necessario avere abbastanza forza nelle braccia da rimanere aggrappati con una mano mentre si spostano i moschettoni (oppure una longe, appunto).
Io ho 63 anni e non ho un allenamento specifico, ma mi considero in buona forma fisica e con buone capacità atletiche.
In queste condizioni l’ho trovata impegnativa e divertente, al punto che la parte negativa è stata solo quella del rientro, che con le articolazioni da ultrasessantenne è stato lungo, noioso e faticoso per le ginocchia.
L’esposizione va da ovest a sud-ovest, quindi la prima parte è in ombra tutta la mattina e la seconda è quasi sempre al sole, dalla tarda mattinata in poi.
Luca Zucchi
30/05/2020 at 22:15Indispensabile un rinvio per riposarsi e fare dei cambi in sicurezza.
Richiede impegno fisico e mentale soprattutto.
dario.graziano
08/08/2019 at 07:37Exciting for the show! There are 3 overhanging sections where you do a little work. A quickdraw in case of tiredness is essential
Roberto Librio
04/06/2019 at 12:53Ferrata made on 04/27/2019
The via ferrata seemed to me less difficult than I expected, however it is very vertical, panoramic and athletic but not technical, essentially a series of brackets, with many overhangs (negative slopes).
Before the end a small Tibetan bridge.
It is necessary to have strength on your arms and overcome the most difficult stretches without lingering too much, so as not to get tired and risk being stuck. Useful a lanyard to rest in the most difficult or simply to take pictures comfortably.
Massimo Loriato
29/04/2019 at 11:13Convenient parking Casa Serena, short and via ferrata approach that starts immediately very vertical.
The verticality remains for most of the ferrata, alternating with ledges, traverses, humps, suspension bridge, making the whole quite varied.
The verticality is compensated by an almost excellent tooling, sometimes I would say even almost excessive, which makes it necessary to climb only in very few points; funny the slabs that describe the various traits, as well as "embellishments" and "characteristic objects" that are found along the points of the route:
- Traverse of the trembling butt
- Fig tree grotto
- Ledge of the 4000
- The humps of the thrill
- Ledge of the bell
- Bridge away with the wind
- The finish line
Fun and great panoramic views of Valsesia and the guaranteed group of Rosa.
The only additional note is that, having covered it two days after heavy rains, we found two fairly slippery stretches and subjected to a discreet dripping during the ascent (Grotta del Fico area until reaching the Gobbe del shiver, vertical zone before Cengia della Campana) .
Giovanna Zoia
20/04/2019 at 12:41Surely you need to be trained and accustomed to overhanging passages, but otherwise it is feasible without any particular problems.
Brackets and cables accompany the entire via ferrata making it not very climbable.
The view and the various rest points are very beautiful.
Edward Miazza
25/03/2019 at 12:39Very vertical and exposed via ferrata, not suitable for everyone, but still well aided and with some points for breaks. Beautiful view of the pink mountain.
zed9
13/03/2019 at 01:39D/D+ Difficile ; Bella, impegnativa, esposta , ma ben protetta ; passaggi strapiombanti ( gobbe del cammello ) , traversi aerei ( chiappa tremante), un ponte; è da fare in condizioni fisiche ottimali ; 5 ore per giro completo abbinato alla ferrata Partusacc , con passo tranquillo , soste e foto .
Filippo Rosi
13/02/2019 at 15:07Athletic, vertical and exposed. I liked it alot. Let's say a great workout for other routes. Combined with the nearby Partusac
Alessandro Iotti
19/08/2018 at 20:22Falconera is an athletic ferrata. Little or nothing climbing has in its 3 or 4 overhanging sections its main characteristic as well as in its constant exposure. You need good arm strength to climb at least a couple of overhanging sections. A quickdraw or sling may be useful to get married. Combined with the nearby Partusac.