Review of the circular itinerary around the Sorapiss along the Ferrata Berti. A long and demanding itinerary but without extremely difficult or technical passages. Itinerary ideally to be divided in two days by staying at the hut. Ferrata Berti described in descent then route itinerary in a clockwise direction starting from San Vito di Cadore.
The Ferrata Berti extends on the western walls of Sorapiss. Its development leads us to bypass the entire Sorapiss with the result of having to be included in a long itinerary. It is generally covered in a ring that extends around the Sorapiss group and is combined with the Ferrata Vandelli and the Minazio Aided path. Of course, the loop itinerary can be undertaken from both the eastern and western side. This report considers the western slope as the starting point of the itinerary in order to stay overnight at Rifugio Vandelli and better divide the long trip.
The starting point of the itinerary is the Scotter Rifugio north of San Vito di Cadore. The ski lifts that connect San Vito with the hut are currently closed and a shuttle service is currently active from the Baita Sun Bar to the Stopper Rifugio. Directions to the Baita Sun Bar on Google Maps available here.
From Rifugio Scotter (1580 m) we will have to reach the Rifugio San Marco (1823 m). Follow the wide and touristy path 228 which in about 30 minutes of steep climb leads us to the hut. Alternatively you can leave your car in Chiapuzza and climb the 800 m difference in level with the CAI 225 in 2 hours of walking.
Reached the Rifugio San Marco, crossroads of the Sorapiss routes we follow the path 226 towards north walking first through meager pastures and mountain pines then on rock towards Forcella Grande. Before reaching Forcella Grande (2256 m - 2h from the Stopper Rifugio) we will notice on the left a junction for the Slataper Shelter with trail sign 246. This junction is essential to choose whether to go around in a clockwise direction (Ferrata Berti downhill, Ferrata Vandelli uphill) or counterclockwise (Ferrata Vandelli downhill, Ferrata Berti uphill). We present this report clockwise.
We continue keeping for long stretches along the hillside in a constant however not excessive ascent to the east along a valley. We go around a more marked rocky wall and we must go up now the last tear before coming to the Slataper Shelter (2600 m - 1h 30' from the junction near Forcella Grande - 3h 30' from the Rifugio Scotter).
In this sense, the Ferrata Berti starts at the Forcella del Bivacco (2670 m) and ends at the Forcella Sora la Cengia del Banco (2416 m). It will be traveled downhill and the first part of the itinerary is certainly the most challenging, exposed and varied. We ignore the junction that goes down path 241 to the Dogana Vecchia and we start the aided way.
Once around an edge, we immediately walk along an exposed downhill ledge that runs under the impressive south walls of the Croda di Marcora. We go down along the ledge that it has gravel background but it is not excessively narrow and cable to our right provides a secure handrail. We go around a recess in the ledge and we carry over an edge from which the most challenging section of the route begins. We will have descend about 150 meters in altitude until you reach a new ledge visible from our current point.
Before starting the vertiginous aided descent, we look up to the Tofane and the Lagazuoi that are right in front of our eyes. The descent begins with a wall where there are some metal brackets followed by some vertical leaps up to reach some exposed metal ladders. Some ladders go down leaning while others are decidedly vertical and connecting steps between the stairs they are at least exciting. We continue the descent with at least a couple of points of greater commitment and vertical wall although the well-held rock offers good support for the feet. We continue the descent e after the last few more confortable steps , however still exposed, we reach the ledge glimpsed about 150 meters higher.
Finish this demanding stretch of the route and we will now continue on large sections exposed ledges. We are now traveling without gaining or losing a significant share a long ledge that at times it narrows to become a crosspiece but never excessively difficult. Thus we go around the west faces of the Sorapis with a long succession of aided sections until the end of the equipment at the so-called Cengia del Banco. This long ledge, contrary to the previous ones, is not protected and, although never difficult, it is definitely exposed and requires a firm step. For long stretches we remain adjacent to the high walls of Sorapiss to then detach from the walls and walking uphill towards the Forcella Sora the Cengia del Banco (2416 m - 2h from the Forcella del Bivacco - 6h from the Scotter Rifugio) where the Ferrata Berti ends.
Before embarking on the long return it is impossible not to look up and see before our eyes i Cadini di Misurina and just beyond the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. The descent will have as a goal of the day the Vandelli Rifugio (1928 m) where you will stay overnight. The descent starts steep and a pass of climbing (I + / II degree in free climbing unprotected) requires more attention. Let us now descend towards the great detrital valley and following the track of the path 215 we reach the magnificent Lake of Sorapiss and then over the Rifugio Vandelli (1h 30' from the saddle - 7h 30' from the Scotter Rifugio).
The following day we resume the long ring return going up to the start of the Ferrata Vandelli (45' from Rifugio Vandelli) and via ferrata (read report here) we reach to Comici Shelter (2000 m - 2h from the start - 10h 15' total).
From the Comici Shelter to return to Forcella Grande, we will travel along the Equazio Aided path. We start losing slightly altitude going down in the Busa del Banco that we go up following the indications for the path 243 that rises to Saddle Basa del Banco with a series of hairpin bends. The path we are going to take is not particularly difficult and offers a magnificent view of the neighbor Antelao that stands out above our heads. Let's start walking the first of a long series of exposed ledges. In the few narrow sections the ledge is aided with a handrail cable. The ledge runs under the eastern walls of Sorapiss with pines and pines to serve as a side dish. The path is very pleasant and after the efforts accumulated in the previous day and for the Ferrata Vandelli, it's very satisfying and enjoyable. We continue on the path until we come to a crossroads where on the right we can climb with the 247 to the Shelter Slapater, a route recommended for those wishing to walk the ring during the day so as not to lose altitude. We continue downhill to a subsequent crossroads where we take the 226 towards Forcella Grande. The panorama opens now it is possible to see the route taken the day before towards the Slapater shelter. We pass to the right of Torre dei Sabbioni prelude to Forcella Grande that we reach in the last uphill stretch of this challenging itinerary. We now return to the Rifugio San Marco and then to the Scotter backwards on the approach path traveled the previous day.
The proposed itinerary presents the Ferrata Berti traveled downhill. Surely by going down the path, the feeling of strong exposure will be accentuated and mainly for this reason we have raised the difficulty of the route from "Moderately difficult" to "Difficult". Moreover it must be considered that shortly after the Forcella Sora the Cengia del Banco we encounter an unprotected stretch of I / II degree that, although not particularly exposed, requires good footing and technique.
As indicated in the report, this itinerary is the combination of 3 aided itineraries around the Sorapiss: the Ferrata Berti, the Ferrata Vandelli and the Minazio Aided path. This long itinerary is very satisfying in itself. If you wanted to combine with other itineraries, the area is certainly very rich. You could opt to continue towards the nearby Antelao for the demanding trip to the Ferrata del Ghiacciaio as in the opposite direction there is the Monte Faloria with the vertical Ferrata Sci Club 18 reachable from Cortina d'Ampezzo.
Continuing in the direction of Cadore we meet two challenging aided paths: the Da Prà and Trail of the Alpini Jau Tana. Going down towards the valley along the road that leads to the south we meet in a rapid succession the Ferrata della Memoria at the Vajont Dam, the Ferrata della Val Gallina and the Ferrata della Parete dei Falchi. In the direction of Passo Falzarego, we can instead take the Ferrata Tomaselli, the recent one Ferrata Fusetti at Sass de Stria, the Ferrata to the Col dei Bos and the Ferrata to the Averau.
Approach: 4:00 h
Ferrata: 2:00 h
Itinerary: 9:30 h
Via Ferrata gap: 254 m
Route difference: 1090 m
Max altitude: 2670 m
Length: 30 Km
Mountain Group: Ampezzo Dolomites