Review of Ferrata Sperti in the Schiara Group. The ferrata climbs the West slope of the Schiara going up to Forcella Sperti and then connecting to the Gusela del Vescovà, the point where the Ferrata Zacchi ends. Challenging itinerary, long and very articulated with variety of passages. Wonderful views of the Schiara and all the main Belluno Dolomite groups to the north.
The starting point of the itinerary is the village of Case Bortot in the province of Belluno. From Belluno we follow the regional road of Col di Lana and shortly after at a roundabout we follow on the right to Bolzano Bellunese and to the Parco delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. We keep the road past Bolzano Bellunesi, then Gioz and still on the same road we now meet the signs for the Case Bortot Hut. We continue on the road until we reach the town of Case Bortot where we pass the hut and after a few meters we meet an open space where it is possible to park with the road that ends. Directions for Google Maps available here.
The first goal of our approach from Case Bortot (695 m) is to reach Hut VII Alpini at the foot of the Schiara. Left the car in the parking, we cover the path with signpost 501 that will lead us to the shelter. The beginning is very pleasant on a wide path in the woods and clearly visible the Schiara and the Gusela del Vescovà on the left. We proceed along the path that descends to Ponte del Mariano (30 'from the parking lot) beyond which we meet a signposted junction: on the right rises the CAI 507 which reaches, among others, the Pelf peak. We remain on CAI 501 in the direction of the Hut. Now climb decisively into the woods and quickly gain altitude along the torrent Ardo. The climb takes place in large part in the sun and it is tiring although not difficult. We reach one series of hairpin bends where the valley opens. We go up this stretch and we are in the clearing where the VII Alpini Hut is located (1502 - 2h 45 'from the parking lot). The Rifugio VII Alpini is a crossroads of trails in the Schiara Group.
From the hut we follow the signs for the Ferrata and the Sperti Shelter following the signpost 504. The trail climbs in northwest direction from the shelter going up diagonal on meadows and mountain pines towards the rocky walls where we meet thestart of the Ferrata Sperti (45 'from the VII Alpini Hut - 3h 30' total).
The ferrata part going up a short rocky leap and then to the left a groove not excessively difficult at the beginning of which we notice the beginning ferrata slab. We continue uphill reaching one vertical wall that we start from the right with a start on a traverse followed by a climb on a slightly accentuated chimney. We proceed uphill now without equipment on trail e then on the ledge that becomes aided when it shrinks. The via ferrata continues reaching one beautiful wall. Go up from the left initially on good rock with holds and then a couple of more difficult passages with reduced holds. Climb the wall we find ourselves in a crumbling gully that is aided. We go up the gully and we find ourselves in front of the Sperti Bivacco (2000 m).
Theenvironment around the shelter it's gorgeous with impressive and vertical walls that dominate it both in the direction of the Schiara and of the Balcon shovel. We continue the climb pointing towards the Sperti Saddle following the red signs present along the route. We cover a stretch of mixed path to easy aided sections up to an exposed ledge towards the right with which we go around an edge and we carry under the gully that will lead us uphill to Forcella Sperti. The gully is steep and set between the sharp walls. We begin to climb it on the right side with the rope running along the right shoulder of the canyon. Not without trouble we gain share and exposure reaching a pair of ladders with which there we move to the left side of the gorge. Paying attention not to move stones that would inevitably fall along the gully we move to its upper part remaining to the left of the gorge. We continue for the last few meters and reach Forcella Sperti (2250 m).
At the saddle we follow the red signs to the right and we will follow the connecting stretch between the Gusela del Vescovà and the Pala del Balcon. We continue in a ups and downs between exciting panoramas. We reach a aided groove that we go up without excessive problems and in the upper part is not aided but less steep. We continue on trail never excessively exposed alternating path sections with ledges until you reach a rather vertical couloir to be climbed with the rope on the right side. We continue along the ridge bypassing a rocky spur on exposed ledge reaching the Nason. We continue on path to the east with a aided section which leads us to a unaided groove to be traced. We continue and we are in final section of the Ferrata Sperti. A last aided stretch and we reach the Gusela del Vescovà near the Bivacco Dalla Bernardina (2320 m - 3h from the start - 6h 30 'total).
From the Bernardina shelter, the return can take place for two routes:
We are advised not to recommend the return to the downhill for the demanding Ferrata Zacchi.
From Rifugio VII Alpini you return to Case Bortot backwards for the approach path (2h - 13h total including the ascent to Schiara - 11h 30 'backwards for the Ferrata Sperti without climbing to Schiara).
As evident from the length of the itinerary, especially including the ascent to the Schiara, it is convenient to break the itinerary in two days by staying at the hut or in one of the shelters at high altitude. The upper part of the itinerary, between Forcella Sperti and the Bivacco della Bernardina, although not difficult, extends between gullies, ledges and exposed stretches of trail that can create some orientation difficulties in case of fog. The Ferrata Sperti is a very panoramic via ferrata that alternates a first vertical section with the most challenging part under Forcella Sperti and a second section that extends on the west ridge of the Schiara group. Although technically it is considered less difficult than the Ferrata Zacchi, and therefore preferred as a possible descent route, it is not to be underestimated the view of many air passages. The rock in the lower part is good and offers holds where the metal equipment is not present. The Ferrata and the Sperti Shelter are closed in the summer of 2019 with a sign in Case Bortot. If you intend to follow the itinerary, we recommend contacting the VII Alpini Hut and ask about the current state of the equipment.
La ferrata Sperti è un grandioso itinerario, isolato e da affrontare con la giusta consapevolezza. Fu inaugurato nel 1963 dietro il desiderio della vedova dell'alpinista bellunese Giangelo Sperti. La costruzione fu eseguita dal CAI di Belluno per facilitare l'accesso a moltissime vie di roccia in zona. Lungo la via si trova anche il bivacco con l'omonimo nome.
The Ferrata Sperti can be easily combined with a multi-day itinerary that includes in various ways the other Schiara ferratas: the Ferrata Zacchi, the Berti, the Piero Rossi and possibly the Aided path Guardiano ascending to the Pelf. If you wanted to follow other aided routes, you could proceed on the opposite side of the Schiara and reach the Civetta - with the Ferrata Tissi, Alleghesi, Costantini and Fiamme Gialle - or towards the Pale di San Martino - with the Ferrata Stella Alpina, Ursa, Bolver Lugli and Fiamme Gialle.