Via Ferrata Lipella to the Tofana di Rozes

Introduction:

The Giovanni Lipella Ferrata is a long aided itinerary ascending to the Tofana di Rozes in the Ampezzo Dolomites. The via ferrata is characterized by medium technical difficulty passages with a couple of more difficult points. The length of the itinerary, the height difference and the high mountain environment increase the degree of difficulty. The road extends on the west wall of the Tofana di Rozes with a wonderful view of the Lagazuoi and the Fanes Group.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is the Dibona Hut (2083 m) which can be reached by an asphalt road that branches off from the road that connects Cortina d'Ampezzo to the Falzarego Pass. Going up from Cortina towards Passo Falzarego we follow the road to the right that leads to the Dibona Hut with directions. Avoid the saddle on the right along the road that leads to the Duca d'Aosta Hut. Directions for Google Maps available here.

It is also possible to undertake the hike from the Falzarego Pass but the approach will be longer and with a greater gap.

Approach:

From the Dibona Hut we continue in a westerly direction (left with respect to the hut) following the clear signs. We start on path 403 up to a junction where the 403 deviates to the right towards the Rifugio Giussani (return route). We continue straight towards theimpressive south wall of the Tofana di Rozes and we graft on the wide path 404 that runs along the south face of the Tofana di Rozes through sparse woods of mountain pines. We ignore a first junction for the Ferrata to the Grotta di Tofana and we stay on the 404 in an easterly direction following the signs for the Ferrata of the Galleries of the Castelletto and the Ferrata Lipella. The path bends to the right following the signs on some poles and we reach the start of the Ferrata to the Castelletto Gallery, preceded by a clearing where it is possible to put on the harness (2475 m - 1h 15 'from the Rifugio Dibona).

Via Ferrata:

The Ferrata at the Castelletto Gallery is the prelude to the real Ferrella Lipella at the Tofana di Rozes. It is an optional via ferrata in the ascent itinerary, however very recommended. If you wanted to avoid following the trail that goes to the right from Forcella Col dei Bos in the direction of Castelletto. You go up the first meters of rocks supported and aided in the direction of the metal slab where one set of brackets and a metal ladder deposit us on a terrace from which you enter the gallery dug during the Great War - signs still very evident along the way. We proceed to the left and there enter the gallery climbing up one flight of steps. We ignore the aided detour that goes down to the left and we continue uphill on the steps meeting a large hole (lookout) in the gallery on the left side. We continue in the gallery now without a staircase on a slippery surface at times alternating horizontal sections with aided climbing sections. The long dark section of the gallery ends near a bend where a slit opens on the left. The gallery then comes to a Exit in which it is possible to finish the route in the tunnel (left) and exit it or continue further into the tunnel for a couple of minutes by exiting onto a ledge to which an aided downhill section follows. This last section of the gallery is optional and perhaps superfluous within the long trip. The type of tunnel requires a frontal torch using the cable for progression.

Once out of the gallery (20 'from the start) one is a trail near the Forcella di Rozes. Let's continue on a hillside trail which cuts the west face of the Tofana di Rozes (2630 m). We pay attention to eventual snow residues even in late season and we reach downhill thestart of the Ferrata Giovanni Lipella (2520 m - 20 'from the end of the tunnel - 40' from the start - approx. 2h from the Rifugio Dibona).

Thestart of the Ferrata Lipella it's pretty simple. You go up one series of supported rocks to the left up to a panoramic terrace beyond which we face a more pronounced vertical leap but well-graded. We reach a dihedral with excellent grips on its left side and the cable that rises to the right. We finish the dihedral, the equipment stops momentarily and we are under a yellow-blackish wall. We reach an easy traverse to the left with large supports for the feet. Theexposed traverse at first horizontal continues diagonally towards contained difficulties. Attention during the crossing of the long traverse to the various rocks that sprout on which it is possible to slam (helmet as ever necessary). We end the traverse and begin a stretch of path that leads us to a more demanding traverse than the previous one. This traverse begins with a decisive leap and then rises diagonally to the left. However, there are many foot holds. The rock is good and sticky so that after the first challenging meters the traverse becomes more pleasant, increasing verticality and exposure but reducing technical difficulties. After the last few meters to the right we reach one ledge.

We travel a long ledge to the left losing slightly altitude. In large sections without difficulty the ledge is not protected while they are crossings of some exposed gullies. After covering the entire ledge we find ourselves under a characteristic passage. We climb a beautiful jagged wall. let's begin climbing some rocks then the development of the rope leads us to face the wall diagonally to the right. There rock is very sticky and it will be possible to proceed climbing without too much difficulty. We walk a short traverse to the right with which we arrive in a chimney. The chimney has a crack in which we will stay on the left side following the development of the cable and possibly looking for handholds on the right side in split. Although a little exposed, this passage is very pleasant to go up again. We cross a few meters to the right with the cable ascending to the left of a cave. A new traverse on the left is still of modest difficulty and the equipment ends again near a ledge.

We cover a new ledge towards the left that is more exposed and slender than the previous one. We cover the long ledge bypassing some indentations and alternating aided sections and unprotected sections where the ledge widens. The ledge ends in a stretch where the cable bends sharply vertically in a stretch of rather bleached wall with some brackets. In this section we alternate short sections of connection with always well graded stretches of wall and exposed with which we gain share again. This stretch of the route pleasant for climbing and the medium difficulty proceeds until it leads us to a signposted junction near the Tre Dita (2700 m - 1h 30 'from the start of the Ferrata Lipella - 3h 30' from the Rifugio Dibona). At this junction following the directions for Giussani and Cantore (abandoned hut) the climb to the Tofana di Rozes ends and the hut is reached in 30 '. This route can obviously also be used as an escape route in the event of weather deterioration.

We will hold the right with directions "Cima" along a new long section at times aided that leads us to the second section of the route. The metallic equipment starts again vertically going up some vertical leaps of modest difficulty. We reach a horizontal traverse to the right that ends with the metal cable that rises vertically into a series of vertical but climbing passages. We continue the climb with moderate slope and climb on rocks. After a point of horizontal rest in which it is possible to observe the stupendous panorama of the stretch just traveled we go up one of the most challenging passages of the road, albeit short. A vertical leap that compared to the previous ones offers few grips and will serve to pull on the cable to climb up it. Now let's go through one new ledge that becomes at times very exposed and narrow.

We are at the last section of the aided road. Before embarking, you can turn around to observe therocky amphitheater just ascended. This section in a couple of steps is difficult for the lack of holds and the much smoother rock compared to the rest of the via ferrata. Reassembled these two jumps we cross a last ledge - less long than the previous ones to the right and we join the normal way (3030 m - 1h 15 'from the junction of the Tre Dita - 2h 45' from the start of the Lipella - 3h 30 'from the start della Ferrata to the Galleria del Castelletto) which rises from the below Rifugio Giussani. We follow the normal route that following one via very logical along the ridge although tiring it leads us to climb up to summit cross of the Tofana di Rozes (3225 m - 30 'from the end of the via ferrata - 4h from the start of the Ferrata to the Galleria del Castelletto - 5h 15' from the Rifugio Dibona).

Descent:

From the peak we descend to the last stretch of the normal route just traveled and from the junction with the ferrata we keep the right following the blue signs descending to the Giussani Hut (2580 m - 1h 15 'from the summit 6h 30' total). From Rifugio Giussani we follow the path 403 that after a steeper start it becomes a pleasant tourist trail set between the Tofana di Mezzo and the Tofana di Rozes. We walk downhill to the junction encountered on the way out, where we take the right to reach the Rifugio Dibona (1h from Rifugio Giussani - 8h total).

Notes:

The Castelletto Gallery starts at an altitude of 2480 m and ends at 2612 m after about 500 m of helical development. The tunnel is completely dark in large tracts and the cable, although only acting as a handrail, is useful because of the wet and slippery surface at times. The torch (preferably front) is a must.

Attention in the various ledges to move debris because in several places the ledges pass parallel one under the other with some hundreds of meters of difference in height between one and the other.

Storia:

La via ferrata che sale alla Tofana di Rozes è intitolata alla memoria della Medaglia d'Oro al Valor Militare Giovanni Lipella. Lipella nacque a Riva del Garda, all'epoca in territorio austriaco. Era un patriota e si arruolò giovanissimo nell'esercito italiano. Morì in combattimento nel Giugno del 1918 nei pressi del Monte Grappa. Nel marzo 1919 ricevette la Medaglia d'oro al valor militare alla memoria.

Dopo la sua morte, fu trovato nel cassetto della sua scrivania (lavorava a Brescia presso la Banca Commerciale Italiana) un foglio sul quale aveva scritto: "Se mi dovesse accadere di non ritornare più, il mio testamento è questo: Viva l'Italia. 8 giugno 1917.

La ferrata è stata costruita nel 1967 dalle Guide di Cortina e dalla locale sezione del CAI.

Opportunities:

The Ferrata at the Tofana di Rozes is a very long itinerary that will hardly leave time and energy to be combined in the day with other via ferrata, except for the Ferrata to the Castelletto Gallery (the first section of the report) and the Ferrata to the Grotta della Tofana . For highly trained hikers, you could possibly return from the Val di Travenanzes using the Ferrata alla Scala del Menighel. If you stay in the area of Passo Falzarego for several days you could walk along the Via Ferrata Alpina at the Col dei Bos, the Ferrata Tomaselli or the Path of the Kaiserjager al Lagazuoi. From the Rifugio Dibona you could take the Ferrata Olivieri in Punta Anna and eventually the Via Ferrata Aglio to Tofana di Mezzo the Tofana di Mezzo or the easiest Aided path Astaldi. On the opposite side of the Falzarego Pass you could go along the Via Ferrata Averau or the Ferrata to the Ra Gusela,