• Leonardo Bona
    17/09/2020 at 10:57

    Ferrata divertente con alcuni punti non banali. Possibilità di evitare la parte finale, più complicata della parte precedente, deviando per il rifugio Giussani. La cima della Tofana di Rozes è raggiungibile eventualmente anche attraverso la via normale (non ferrata), la stessa che si percorre scendendo dalla cima verso il Giussani.
    È un itinerario lungo e impegnativo quindi è indispensabile prendersi l’intera giornata.

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  • dappaster
    07/08/2020 at 16:14

    Ascesa compiuta il 30/07/2020 con buone condizioni meteo.
    Condizioni della ferrata in generale buone, ho trovato diversi punti bagnati per la presenza di piccole cascate, piccolissime sorgive o a causa delle intemperie (fino al giorno precedente aveva piovuto).

    Il mio punto di vista sulla difficoltà:
    Ho trovato la prima parte della ferrata (fino al bivio Giussani – Cima) abbastanza facile dal punto di vista tecnico. A mio parere una persona che si senta a suo agio in questo tipo di ambiente, con un minimo di preparazione atletica, può percorrerla molto agevolmente. Sono presenti alcuni tratti dove la roccia è un po’ scivolosa per via dell’usura e della presenza di acqua. Ci sono pochi passaggi verticali ed in generale la salita è poco impegnativa.
    Fino a qui non è richiesto un grosso impegno fisico.
    La seconda parte della ferrata presenta difficoltà tecniche ed un dispendio di energie più elevati. Ci sono diversi passaggi verticali ed anche qui ho trovato tratti con roccia scivolosa, in particolare sui punti di passaggio verticale obbligatori.
    Usciti alla targa posta alla fine della ferrata (poco sopra i 3000mt) la fatica si fa sentire.
    Se si decide di salire da questo punto fino alla cima della Tofana di Rozes, il percorso procede su una sorta di ghiaione/ pietraia friabile ed abbastanza inclinato, con la possibilità di dover attraversare anche nel periodo estivo brevi tratti innevati o ghiacciati.

    La discesa dalla cima fino al Rifugio Giussani non presenta particolari difficoltà tecniche, la traccia del sentiero non è sempre evidente ma è facilmente intuibile. È richiesto un buon controllo delle gambe per la presenza di ghiaione, rocce smosse o scivolose e qualche piccolo salto di roccia.

    Paesaggisticamente il percorso è sensazionale e merita abbondantemente la fatica che richiede. Consiglio di documentarsi sulla storia del gruppo delle Tofane durante la prima guerra mondiale prima di compiere l’ascesa, in particolare per quanto riguarda la Tofana di Rozes e la galleria del Castelletto.

    Reputo realistiche le tempistiche indicate se riferite ad una persona con moderata esperienza di vie ferrate e una buona preparazione fisica.

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  • Maurizio Bonomo
    30/06/2020 at 16:56

    30/06/2020 Ferrata fatta l’anno scorso lunga ma con dei panorami sulla Val Travenanzes e dalla cima stupendi , da mettere in lista assieme alla Olivieri Punta Anna , le Tofane non deludono …

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  • Andrea Lupini
    13/08/2019 at 10:25

    Magnificent trip!

    Up to the 3 fingers I find myself aligned with what is written in the report, making a small controversy: at about half of the ferrata we arrive at a point where the continuation of the itinerary is not well indicated and we continue towards a very exposed ledge, without cable. and that leads to a blind alley: extremely dangerous!

    Arrived at 3 fingers, we decided to climb to the top: here the difficulty of the via ferrata described in the report is absolutely reductive. All in vertical, all exposed and a couple of passages absolutely without grips on which to climb only with arms (without considering that after 6 hours of trip the lucidity begins to fail).

    At the end of the ferrata we literally dragged ourselves to the top, exhausted by the difficulty of the trip that really takes away a lot of energy. The satisfaction for having reached the summit cross is priceless.

    Challenging and really bad descent.

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  • zedred
    05/08/2019 at 17:42

    Traveled on the day 20/07/2019 starting from the Dibona quite late…. Approach not particularly exhausting even if not very short. Overall ferrata without technical passages, widely climbable without the use of cable. Majestic and SPECTACULAR environment throughout the journey, possibility to reach the satisfying peak of the Tofana di Rozes with a 360 ° panorama.
    As the report says, the greatest difficulty is given by the length of the entire route, to be kept in mind above all because if we want the most "technical" part of the via ferrata is concentrated in the last stretch that leads to the fore. Once you have completed the aided sections and have reached the summit pyramid, if you still have energy and time permits, take the last stretch to the top (30 / 45min).
    The return to Giussani I found a little uncomfortable because of the lack of a precise track and for the presence of some residual snowfields on which not to lower the guard. The return path from Giussani to Dibona is easy.
    My personal consideration is that the via ferrata itself is practicable for everyone with a minimum of knowledge of the behavior to keep, if you have a good workout it is feasible (with a fair amount of energy) during the day, if instead you are at your first via ferrata or you don't feel particularly fit to stay at the Dibona and leave early in the morning; the via ferrata can also be done with the help of a cable and it never seemed particularly exposed ... if you find yourself in difficulty, consider that at 3/4 of the ferrata there is the possibility to go out and reach the Giussani without going through the most difficult section of the Lipella to the fore. (Not having, however, traveled this detour I could not say how long the sentirero that takes you to the hut).

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  • mirkomarcolini
    15/07/2019 at 12:21

    made the 13/07/2019 beautiful in every part ... the initial gallery, all the via ferrata and the breathtaking scenery. Complex but pleasantly climbable with no particular problems. The most tiring parts are certainly the stretch from the end of the via ferrata to the summit and the descent to Giussani. Possibility of presence of snow tongues

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  • marcomelioli
    28/05/2019 at 02:06

    Extraordinary, exciting throughout its duration. Approach not short and to the mainsail of the sun, very long via ferrata in a beautiful, climbing, never too difficult context. The initial gallery is striking. It may be wet in some places due to thawing. I recommend starting early in the morning, otherwise you could find dozens and dozens of people along the way (we stayed at the Dibona to be ready at dawn). Bring plenty of water and sunscreen. After the via ferrata, if you want to reach the top of the tofana, you might need crampons. The descent is steep, very long and with some snowfields to cross. In my opinion it is one of the most beautiful trips in the entire Dolomite panorama!

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  • tommy.76
    24/04/2019 at 12:47

    Long long but in a breathtaking setting…. Tireless for the length but without complicated steps… for those who go to the area I recommend an overnight stay at the Giussani hut in a magnificent position and with the possibility of joining other via ferratas in the area… from the end of the via ferrata to the summit it's still a bit of a walk but the view pays off

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  • Alessandro Iotti
    19/08/2018 at 20:39

    Magnificent trip for landscape and passages. One of the most beautiful I've ever done. The via ferrata is never too difficult and only a couple of steps require more effort otherwise the difficulty level is medium. Long itinerary for difference in height and duration. Rather difficult to return to normal, not marked very well and wet with some slippery passages to be reckoned with.

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