The Ferrata Giulio Segata at Monte Dos d'Abramo above Trento. The via ferrata, although short, is definitely challenging, technical and aerial, which in just over thirty minutes will put us to the test. Characteristic of this short ferrata is the ascent in two natural holes carved by water inside the Dos d'Abramo. It will be very satisfying to continue the itinerary by climbing all 3 of the Bondone peaks.
The starting point of the itinerary is near the town of Viote del Bondone. Both rather winding roads can be reached from Trento or Rovereto. We have two options on where to leave the car.
In both cases there are paths with a similar approach towards the via ferrata.
In the case of parking with itinerary 1 go up near Malga Fragari, we ignore the CAI 607 path that goes straight for about twenty minutes until you find an indication that to the left leads us towards the tour of the 3 peaks of the Bondone. We continue uphill until we reach the CAI 636 which goes uphill from the left. We take it and continue uphill to the right.
The CAI Trail 636 is the path that we take with itinerary 2. In this case, after leaving the car, we follow the directions for the tour of the 3 peaks of the Bondone and we go up to the CAI 636 ignoring the CAI 9 that goes down at the crossroads. We continue uphill to where the path indicated in point 1 joins.
We continue uphill on 636 towards Cima Verde (2102 m - 1h 30 'from the parking lot) on whose grassy summit we meet CAI 630 downhill to the left for the Aided Sparaval Path. We keep the CAI 636 which to the right continues in the direction of Dosso d'Abramo. From this stretch we see Dosso d'Abramo straight to us in the south-west direction. We continue on a ridge path in a beautiful environment with a natural watershed of colors with green towards the west and red towards the east. Continuing along the easy path we will arrive just below the Dosso d'Abramo in a junction of paths: on the right the 636 continues in the direction of Monte Cornetto going around the Dosso d'Abramo towards the west, straight up the 638A which leads us along an aided path to the top of the Dos d'Abramo on a steep canal, to the left follow the 638 "Sentiero Corazza". Taken to the left on 638, after a few meters we reach an unmarked crossroads where 638 continues downhill and we continue straight in the direction of the east wall of Dos d'Abramo reaching below the east wall where we will see the red sign of the beginning of the ferrata (2h from the parking lot).
The beginning of the via ferrata coincides with its most iconic point. Go up through a natural hole in the rock. As you can imagine the hole is vertical and you have to look for every single natural grip to climb it reducing the traction on the rope. In particular we will notice some holds right side of the hole. The rock is very smooth in this section and, although possible, climbing becomes difficult. At the upper point of the hole we go out on the right and cross to the left on a strong exposure on rock again very smooth. We climb a short vertical pass and we are on a rocky terrace from which the second section of the via ferrata starts.
The stretch we take now is vertical and extends on smooth rock with few holds which is often difficult to climb. This stretch is very vertical and exposed but there are a couple of small balconies where you can stop. The upper part of this wall makes us pass through a crack inside the rock in a single non-trivial passage but in which a metal bracket helps us as a handle for the hand. We end this first section of the ferrata in a ledge towards the right (15 'from the start). Continuing the ledge we go out on an escape route that leads us to the top of the Dos d'Abramo going up from the CAI 638A.
If, on the other hand, we continue the vertical part of the via ferrata on a fairly smooth wall in which the sufficiently detached taps that will be useful both for hands and feet will be providential. We continue uphill also taking advantage of a couple of additional pegs and climb inside a chimney that leads us to a small terrace and then into a cavity. This cave is often wet and from the bottom it has a decidedly bold development. The first few meters are fundamental and the pegs on both the right and left sides must be used wisely. The climb inside the cavity takes the form of a narrow chimney in which to proceed in a split trying to alternate pegs and cracks in the rock. We leave the chimney with a couple of steps in which to move easily and continue on a diagonal stretch to the right beyond which ends the difficult Ferrata Segata al Dos d'Abramo (30 'from the start - 2h 30' total).
At the end of the Ferrata Segata we basically have two options:
For this ferrata, climbing shoes can be decidedly useful given the particularly smooth and smooth type of rock.
The Ferrata Giulio Segata al Bondone is a short, decidedly technical and exposed ferrata. The itinerary, if it leads us to reach all the 3 peaks of the Bondone, is long and with a good gap, which could discourage us from starting a second itinerary on the same day. If at the end of the via ferrata we return directly to the parking lot, we could combine a second short itinerary, such as the exposure Via Ferrata Marangoni in Mori or going up the Adige Valley Via Ferrata Rio Secco or the Ferrata del Burrone Giovanelli. Moving instead towards Andalo you can go along the Via Ferrata Aquile. Moving instead to Val di Sarche towards Garda, we will be able to walk along the Via Ferrata Pisetta, the Via Ferrata Che Guevara, the Casteldrena ferrata, the Ferrata Signora delle Acque and the Via Ferrata Preore.
Approach: 2:00 h
Ferrata: 0:30 h
Itinerary: 3:30 h
Via Ferrata gap: 80 m
Route difference: 564 m
Max altitude: 2133 m
Length: 11 Km