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Review of the ferrata that, near Iglesias, rises the gorge of the Gutturu Xeu. Medium difficulty itinerary with equipment in a good state of maintenance. Rather exposed ferrata with adrenaline downhill rope.
The starting point of the itinerary is Iglesias in Sardinia. Once in Iglesias, go along Via Cavalier San Filippo until the end and then turn left onto Via Falcone, then turn right at the first route onto a narrow but paved road. Follow it for 1.5 km until you see a dirt road on the right that goes up. Follow it for a few hundred meters until you reach the beginning of the path marked by a bar.
Directions for Google Maps available here.
From the parking lot we will follow a mule track that leads to the ancient iron mine. Follow the wide path that in about 20 minutes takes us near the mountain massif on which it extends. To the left of a small cave you can see the metal equipment of the via ferrata (20 'from the parking lot).
At this point we can evaluate whether to take the left or right variant. The routes are technically similar. The one on the right attacks slightly higher and you will have to climb a few meters free without protection. Both routes end with a descent of about 30-40 meters to be carried out on a double rope (having a descender brake, lanyards and double ropes).
Left via ferrata:
The left Ferrata attacks near a cave that served as a mining gallery. We pay attention to follow the stone little man who leads us on a ledge from which the via ferrata begins.
We start with a series of stepped steps to the right without difficulty and then continue more vertically between rock and Mediterranean vegetation. We move to the left in the direction of a reddish gully which we ascend vertically into beautiful climbing. We continue on an id trail equipped with easy jumps up to a vertical wall near a corner. We stand on the left side of the wall and go up vertical using the many changes present. Without substantial difficulties we finish the wall we move to the right, rounding a corner and in short reaching the end of the via ferrata.
The descent can take place backwards for the via ferrata or by abseiling, which will lead us to the base of the road near the attack of the next via ferrata.
Right via ferrata:
As mentioned in the paragraph on the approach, the right via ferrata sees the equipment start a few meters higher than the path. A couple of trees can be used to reassemble these few meters and without excessive technical difficulties the metal cable is reached. We start on easy equipped jumps moving to the left up to a vertical wall where the cambres present help the progression. We continue vertically gaining meters up to a comfortable terrace. The route resumes on very rich rock of holds and stepped up to a new vertical wall again equipped with abundant cambres. We climb vertically on the plate, moving gradually to the right. The way is in this section decidedly exposed but not difficult. Then we reach an earthy ledge.
We follow the downhill equipped ledge to the right. We follow the cable and some change until we reach a traverse downhill with good support for the feet. We go around an exposed edge and, following the descents, we reach a exposed traverse to the right where we walk on the void. The traverse is airy but not difficult thanks to the many changes. We finish the traverse of about thirty meters reaching an earthy ledge where we meet the book of signatures.
We continue on the equipped path among the Mediterranean vegetation going up on plaques resting up to reach a dihedral where we will stay on the left side going up using the cambre present. Although this step is not difficult, it is more athletic with the spacing rather spaced and the cable slightly overhanging. Once the first part of this wall is finished, the difficulties are lowered and we continue on the low wall of thirty meters following the many cambra present reaching the end of the via ferrata.
The descent, as in the case of the previous via ferrata, can take place backwards or through dropped into a double rope.
After completing the descents in repell, go back along the path of the outward until you reach the car.
Two ropes of at least 40 m are required to be able to abseil from the end of the via ferrata. Therefore also carry a brake and self-locking cord for this maneuver. Sometimes it is possible to use a zipline that the local group of enthusiasts has installed.
From Iglesias marrying towards the coast we can go along the magnificent trip ascending to Pan di Zucchero. Moving northwards, Sardinia offers many interesting aided routes: the recent one Ferrata Regina, the Ferrata del Giorrè, the Ferrata of Badde Pentumas, the Via Ferrata degli Angeli on the island of Tavolara and further north the Ferrata del Cabirol.
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piccozzaintesta
02/05/2022 at 12:48Quando si dice la fortuna. Arrivati al ‘parcheggio’ (slargo per 3-4 macchine) abbiamo trovato 3 locali che andavano a fare la ferrata di sinistra e che MOLTO gentilmente ci hanno fatto da guida. Senza di loro già trovare l’attacco della ferrata sinistra non sarebbe stato facile. Terminata la ferrata breve e abbastanza facile c’è una prima calata sulla destra (basta 1 corda da 60m). Terminata questa calata fossimo stati soli sarebbe stato davvero problematico trovare la 2a calata. Terminata la prima scendere tenendosi sulla destra. L’anello di calata è parecchio esposto e pertanto è complicato attrezzare la doppia. Anche in questo caso basta 1 sola corda da 60m. Una volta finita la calata si scende sino ad arrivare nella valle dove parte la ferrata destra. Personalmente mi sento di consigliare come alternativa una volta finita la ferrata di sinistra di scendere da dove si è saliti perché la possibilità di trovarsi bloccati tra la 1a e la 2a calata sono alte. Per quanto riguarda la ferrata di destra per raggiungere l’attacco usare un albero accanto. Terminata una prima parte NON salire ma scendere sulla destra (faccia a monte) su altri tratti attrezzati sino a raggiungere una cengia attrezzata. Terminata la cengia consiglio di salire l’ultimo tratto di ferrata verticale e gradinato e scendere poi sulla sinistra seguendo omini e bolli di vernice sino a tornare a valle. In alternativa si tralascia l’ultimo pezzo verticale di ferrata e facendosi sicura si attraversa per alcuni metri sino alla calata di circa 40m quindi in questo caso necessarie 2 corde da 50-60m.
Corriasfotografia
11/06/2019 at 02:19As always, we start by bringing the group together for breakfast
…
We head towards the resort ... Harness, helmet and all the necessary ...
The heat was felt a lot ... but we are in June ... more than normal!
From the paved road where we parked, there is a 30 minute walk to the start of the first ferrata ...
The via ferratas are pretty simple ... but the landscape is wonderful once you get on ...
Actually not comparable to the ferrata and lowered to Pan di Zucchero, but I had a lot of fun especially with the Calata in double rope .. about 35 meters high ... and has an empty area in the middle ..
Nice ... maybe some rudimentary little ferrata treats ... but nothing to worry about if you stay safe and focused on where and what we're doing!
Ivan Pegorari
26/04/2019 at 18:59Particular ferrata, good fallback if you are in the area, especially if a sugar loaf is not accessible due to rough seas ... You don't go there on purpose ... Too discontinuous and a circle drawing not really understandable. Technically it is NOT aided to standard, with cables and safety systems that are not approved, like all the ferratas, although beautiful, of Sardinia.
Francesco Ballocco
05/01/2019 at 08:22The signed data probably refers to the only route on the left side of the valley, considering the part in the right orogr. The times and the development must have more than doubled. They serve from 4 to 5 hours for the entire route which, in addition to the via ferrata routes, also includes 4 abseiling (22, 35, 12, 35 or 12 Mt).