Ferrata Julia

Introduction:

Review of the Ferrata Julia to Monte Canin. Itinerary starting from the top station of the cable car ascending to the Canin from Sella Nevea. A long itinerary approaching the Canin glacier. Possibility of a long ring route passing through Slovenian territory.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is the top station of the cable car that from Sella Nevea (Udine) goes up to Rifugio Gilberti Soravito. To reach the valley station of the cable car you must reach Sella Nevea. To reach Sella Nevea you must reach the town of Chiusaforte, located 20 minutes from the Carnia Tolmezzo exit in the A23. Once in Chiusaforte follow the signs for Sella Nevea towards the east. We pass the bridge and drive 20 km to the village. At a hairpin bend we meet the sign of welcome to Sella Nevea. A few tens of meters further on the right there is a road that leads us to the ski lifts. Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

Reached the Rifugio Gilberti Soravito (1850 m) by cable car or from Sella Nevea with trail marker 635 (2h - 750 m height difference) we take the path 632 to the right of the hut. Before we set off we can already observe the left of the ridge the Sella Prevala from which one of the two return options presented will fall. A little above Sella Prevala there is the mountain station of the second section of the cable car. The characteristic is already visible in the same direction Monte Forato.

After the first saddle where the 636 comes off to the left, we keep to the right we set off uphill towards the Sella Bila Pec where the is present ruin of a old military barracks. We follow the indications present until you reach a new junction (45 'from the top station of the cable car): straight ahead the CAI 632 for Sella Grubia and the Bivacco Marussich from which to take the Ferrata Grasselli, instead we keep the left following the various red signs in the direction of the Canin Glacier. We continue on the path that extends on one wide path along the hillside until reach the glacier after climbing a morainic hump with some holes along the path to watch out for. The state of the glacier changes significantly from year to year. Although crampons are not always necessary in the initial section, the slope increases as you approach the start and it is strongly recommended to have it with you. We are on our way in the central part.

To reach the start of the Julia Ferrata you cannot count on good signs near the glacier. We will have to orient ourselves trying to climb the snow-covered canal centrally by identifying the high saddle from which, following the logical line of ascent, we reach the ropes. Once up the snow-covered gully, we will have to pay attention:

• on the left some red signs lead to the aided via delle Cenge which we propose as a difficult return option,
• we keep to the right identifying the wire ropes from which starts the Julia Ferrata (2350 m - 1h 45 'from the top station of the cable car).

Via Ferrata:

Paying attention to thestart of the Julia Ferrata that, depending on the state of the glacier, sometimes it must be reached by passing over a crevasse near the wall, climbing up diagonal on a smooth wall from the action of ice. After the first meters on chain, we move to the right. This first section of ferrata will not be easily climbable due to the smooth rock and therefore a certain strength of arms may be necessary also taking advantage of some pegs inserted in the wall. We continue climbing always vertical and with an increasing exposure but the rock is now more appigliato and offers greater possibilities to be climbing. This first part of the ferrata was not present in the original route which, with the glacier in its original state, rose 30 meters higher.

We move with a connecting stretch to the right on land now less difficult to see the slab of the Via Julia. We now climb initially on rocks then, moving to the left, we find ourselves in a very pleasant groove to climb where it is recommended to proceed in split. We continue in vertical on rocks and easy leaps reaching one vertical wall with new and large metal brackets. We climb the wall and find ourselves in a new groove that we ascend without any particular problems.

Attention in this section of the route at debris bottom which, if moved, would inevitably fall below where other hikers might be. The route continues with some easy vertical sections, leaps and a couple of traverses up to a rise last gully and reach the ridge where the aided part of the Ferrata Julia ends with the glacier 200 meters below us (2530 m - 45 'from the start).

We are now on the ridge where the runs border between Italy and Slovenia and from which on the left the normal route ascends. We now hold the right and following the red signs we reach with medium difficulty path the summit of the Canin with the a wooden cross currently broken (2587 m - 15 'from the end of the ferrata - 1h from the start - 2h 45' from the top station of the cable car).

Descent:

From the summit of the Canin is clearly visible below us ridge that separates the state border. To return to the cable car, retrace your steps to the junction with the arrival of the via ferrata. At this point we will have 3 return options:

1. the most demanding option, which requires experience and no problems with the airy, is the return to the Sentiero delle Cenge. From the crossroads continue along the ridge following the red signs up to meet a sign with a trace not immediately visible that descends to the left. This path is advisable to follow it uphill as there are only a few stretches of it aided and winds through narrow and exposed ledges that take us back to the glacier left before the start of the via ferrata. The key step of the descent requires crossing in split a short exposed gully. The connecting sections between the various ledges are composed of rocks on which it is necessary to unclamp. The signs of the path are not perfect when walking downhill and requires a minimum of interpretation on how to be followed. Returning to the glacier (1h 45 'from the summit) you return to the cable car for the approach path (1h 15' from the end of the trail of ledges - 3h from the summit - about 6h total).
2. The longest option in terms of kilometers traveled but less demanding is the return to the ridge that connects Monte Canin with Sella Prevala. The path runs just below the ridge in Slovenian territory. We ignore the various crossroads that descend into Slovenian territory and stay on trail which runs along the hillside until it reaches the Monte Forato. This unique mountain has a "window"on the Italian side. It is possible to reach the forum with a short detour. Continue along the hillside reaching the top station of the Slovenian cable car. We continue north to reach Sella Prevala (2067 m - 2h 30 'from the Canin summit - about 5h total.) Now keeping the left with signpost 636 we descend through the glacial valley that leads us to the valley station of the cable car (1h 15 'from Sella Prevala - about 6h 30' total).
3. Back to the Julia Ferrata and the approach path.

Notes:

The trip to the Canin with the Ferrata Julia is a very rewarding itinerary. The places we meet along the ascent and the descent are magnificent passing from the dolomite landscapes of the Slovenian side to glacier stretches and moraine depressions. The via ferrata is of medium difficulty and, apart from the first section, it is well climbable and without significant technical difficulties. Separate speech for the return from the Path of the Ledges which requires a firm step and the ability to disassemble passages of I and II grade on display. Less difficult though longer the return from the Slovenian side.

Opportunities:

The Ferrata Julia is easily combined with the climb to the Canin from Ferrata Grasselli that climbs the slope of the mountain from the side of the peak of Carnizza on the west side. In this it is preferable to walk down the Julia via ferrata with respect to the Ferrata Grasselli. From Sella Nevea, you can climb the opposite side of the valley towards Jof Montasio or Jof Fuart going up some interesting aided routes: the Ferrata Amalia, the Ferrata Anita Goitan, the Aided path Leva and Aided path Ceria Merlone. Continuing instead towards the border with Slovenia to the north we encounter two difficult Mangart via ferratas: the Ferrata della Vita and the Ferrata delle Balze del Mangart. From the Val Dogna side you can go up to Monte Cavallo with the long hike that includes the Ferrata Norina.