Ferrata Kajserjager

Introduction:

The Ferrata Kajserjager at Col Ombert extends in a wonderful environment and is a pleasant and climbing ferrata. It is generally reached from Val San Nicolò, although it is also possible to reach it from Val Contrin. The itinerary is long and the ferrata relatively short.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is Baita Ciampiè in Val San Nicolò, a secondary valley of the Val di Fassa. The valley can be reached from Pozza di Fassa following the signs to the south. Ignore the signs for Val Monzoni and continue along the narrow paved road until you reach a large parking lot on the right. In low season it is possible to continue to Baita Ciampiè while in high season it is necessary to park in the large paying car park - available on both sides of the stream.

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

From the car park we go up the paved road in the valley until we reach Baita Ciampiè (20 ') where the is clearly visible summit of Col Ombert. From Baita Ciampiè we remain on the dirt road that coincides with the CAI 608 in direction of Passo San Nicolò. We will come to a signposted junction (1960 m - 30 'from the parking lot) where we will hold the left and begin a trail with constant slope leads us first to Pociace (2260 m - 1h from the parking lot), then to Cima Pre de Contrin (2365 - 1h 15 'from the parking lot) where we meet the CAI 613. We will keep the right in a path that leads us to the San Nicolò Pass on the hillside on the Val de Contrin. Straight to us we already see the destination of our itinerary: first the Hut at Passo San Nicolò (2340 m - 1h 30 'from the parking lot) and then the Col Ombert. Reached the Hut take the path that, following the clear indications, leads us in about twenty minutes to a cave dating back to the WWI where one commemorative slab shows us the date of creation of the original path. It is possible to put the harness in the cave to be able to then start the Ferrata Kajserjager at the Col Ombert (2h from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata:

The Ferrata starts with a difficult chimney. The passage is difficult but rich in holds and this will help us to get back up if we have the patience to look for the grips, present, for the boots. We walk a short traverse to the left and then arrive at the key passage of the route. There's a overhanging section where a belly will need to be climbed. The passage can be solved with a good climbing technique or with a dry passage of arms. We are now on a quieter stretch of the route and it is possible to watch the panorama towards the Passo di San Nicolò. Let's go up some rocks following the wire rope on one side and the old equipment on the other. We reach a rocky spur where we stay on the left side and we continue uphill on fairly climbing sections until we reach a long ramp without difficulty with aancient staircase halfway through.

At the end of the ramp the climb increases the slope and with a sure zig zag Yes gains share until you reach aexposed ledge with old equipment on the outside of the ledge. At the end of the ledge we have to go up one vertical wall and a little athletic in which the less prepared for climbing will have to pull on the rope. You reach a third demanding pass with a slight overhang in which one can assess whether to climb it on the right or left side. The right is preferable. We are in final section of the via ferrata. We climb a last series of easy rocky jumps and we are at the unprotected path that leads us to the place in a few minutes summit cross (1h from the start - 3h total) with a wonderful panorama that surrounds us: Cima Uomo, the Marmolada, the Val San Nicolò.

Descent:

From the summit (2670 m) you return to the opposite side to the climb. Follow the trail that goes down the steep path - be careful if wet. We go down on the east wall going down a gully with steep hairpin bends until we reach CAI 609. Here you have two options for the return:

1. keep to the left and continue to descend until you reach a track on the left that we follow, bypassing the northwest wall of Col Ombert. The track takes us to a stretch where on the scree slope we reach the CAI 608 that rises from the Contrin Valley. At this point we regain the lost height to return to the Passo San Nicolò Hut (2,340 m - 1h 15 'from the summit), not without some difficulty, where we continue for a few meters along the path followed by the approach until we meet a wide mule track. goes down to the valley in the direction of the Baita delle Cascate. We go down this path reaching the Baita (2011 m - 30 'from Rifugio Passo San Nicolò - 1h 45' from the summit). From the hut, follow the wide dirt road in a westerly direction until you reach the junction of the approach. From that downhill section along the cart track to the parking lot (30 'from the waterfall hut - 2h 15' from the summit - 5h 15 'total).
2. From the crossroads, keep to the right towards Pas Paschè. This option allows us to lose less height, however in 2017 a landslide was signed which makes this deviation more problematic. If you decide to follow it from Pas Paschè (2500 m) follow the CAI 609 which on constant descent leads us to the Baita delle Cascate (1h 15 'from the summit). From the Baita delle Cascate, as for option 1, return to the car park (4h 45 'total).

Notes:

The Kajserjager Ferrata at the Col Ombert is a really nice ferrata. The itinerary is beautifully landscaped. You are in the presence of Cima Uomo, Ombretta, Marmolada and further away from the Sell Groupto and of the other dolomitic groups that surround the Val di Fassa. The via ferrata is difficult in 3/4 passages requiring a good athletic preparation but is generally climbing and pleasant in progression. The long approach and the long re-entry make it less traveled than other adjacent roads and this is certainly a positive factor when we find ourselves in one of the most touristic areas of the Dolomites.

A note to watch out for. The bottom is quite dirty and it is easy to move stones that inevitably, given the line of ascent, we risk falling against who is going up. It is necessary to pay close attention to this aspect.

Opportunities:

The Kajserjager via ferrata extends in an area rich in aided itineraries. Val San Nicolò alone presents the difficult Ferrata dei Magnifici 4, the Ferrata Gadotti and allows you to take both the Ferrata Bepi Zac that the via ferrata Bruno Federspiel. If you decide to proceed in the direction of Val Contrin you could opt for the long itinerary that includes the Ferrata Ombretta or go up the Ferrata of the Financiers at the Colac.

Moving instead to the Catinaccio you can walk some magnificent via ferratas too in a majestic context. Among the various, we point out the Ferrata Santner, the Ferrata to the Catinaccio of Antermoia, the Ferrata Masarè and the Ferrata Roda di Vael.