La Ferrata Laurenzi is a wonderful ridge itinerary that extends in one of the wild corners of the Catinaccio group between Molignon di Dentro and Molignon di Fuori. The itinerary requires a long approach and return and is often inserted into a longer itinerary that may include other aided paths.
As with many routes in the area of the Catinaccio there are multiple starting points for the itinerary. Furthermore, the Laurenzi Ferrata can be easily traveled in both directions. In this report we propose the Ferrata Laurenzi traveled in the direction of Rifugio Antermoia - Rifugio Tires and for the departure of the itinerary we propose Mazzin in Val di Fassa in the province of Trento.
To reach the Val di Fassa you can exit at Ora or a Bolzano North and follow the directions to reach the Val di Fassa. Once in the valley you reach Mazzin on the state road, turn left into Strada de Chiavacia. You reach a narrowing of the road with no traffic at 100 meters. There are few parking lots on the side of the road which, if available, are ideal. Otherwise you have to go back to the village and look for parking in the area. Directions for Google Maps available here.
The proposal to start from Mazzin is due to the approach. You can reach the Rifugio Antermoia from many directions. However, from Mazzin you can follow the less difficult and tiring path in view of the continuation of the trip along the Ferrata Laurenzi.
From the car park near the bottleneck we continue along the uphill cart road that coincides with the CAI path 580. We will reach a saddle to the left for the Paola Trail - more difficult and wild - which we ignore. We continue on the path 580 in constant ascent along the Val de Udai. We will reach a crossroads of the CAI 580 with the CAI 577, we keep to the left remaining on the 580 which soon intersects with the 578. At this point again we keep the left on the 578 that rises steeply between hairpin bends in a suggestive environment surrounded by the Sas de Dona right and the Mantel on the left. We reach the Pass de Dona (2516 m) and from here slightly downhill you reach the Hut of Antermoia (2496 m - 3h 30h from the parking lot).
From the ('Rifugio') Hut we continue in a westerly direction on path 584 which passes to the right of the beautiful Lago d'Antermoia. We continue in false ground beyond the glacial lake, paying attention to the track that after about 5 minutes from the end of the lake comes off in a northerly direction to the right towards gravelly gully. This junction is not signposted but identified gully it must be go back completely keeping the left branch until you meet on the right the distinctive red sign with whom he has start of the Laurenzi Ferrata (30 'from Rifugio Antermoia -4h total)
We immediately climb a fairly poor wall of holds and vertical. Proceed where possible to climb but the rock does not help us in this stretch - something that will change the rest of the way. We go up initially with some zigzags and subsequently on a most supported stretch in which you can more easily get up. Now we begin a stretch of exposed rocks but not particularly difficult and we reach a stretch of path that cuts across the mountain. Turning around we see the Antermoia hut and the homonymous lake in the distance.
We now go up a series of rocky leaps that - before the recent renovation of the route - were unprotected and a little insidious. Now they are aided and definitely less problematic. We climb them and soon reach the top of the Molignon di Dentro where a cairn in stone of indicates the summit (2852 m - 45 'from the start - total 4h 45') with a magnificent view to the right of the Sassopiatto.
The most aerial section of the route now begins. We will now walk along a stretch of ridge path on a slippery surface where it will be necessary to pay great attention. After a first descent we will have to go back a short jump and then continue downhill going down into a landslide gully until you reach the book of signatures. We now go up towards a saddle (2730 m) beyond which there is a aided vertical section decidedly exposed. The stretch offers discreet holds to proceed with climbing. We complete this climb and resume the stretch on the ridge remaining generally a couple of meters beside the wire. We continue on a strong exposure until we meet an edge where we go up another vertical wall. We leave this adrenaline rush and behind us we can see the stretch of ridge just traveled from the Molignon di Dentro. Let's now go on aided ridge path which proceeds in strong exposure between rocky traverses and steps of medium difficulty. After the most exposed stretch of the ridge we find ourselves in front of a steep uphill stretch of path that leads us to the Molignon di Fuori (2779 m - 1h 30 'from the Molignon di Dentro) which allows us to enjoy an excellent view on the Catinaccio of Antermoia, on the Sassopiatto and on ridge of the Denti di Terrarossa (where the Ferrata Maximilian) and on the various surrounding mountain ranges of the Trentino South Tyrol.
We now go down in a north west direction following the track and the cairn until you reach le equipment that allow us without particular technical difficulties to descend the last rocks up to end of the via ferrata, also marked with a red sign near the Passo di Molignon (30 'from Molignon di Dentro - 3h from the Rifugio Antermoia - 7h 30' total). We now walk along an easy path that soon leads us to one signpost with directions to the right to reach the Rifugio Alpe di Tires or on the left for Rifugio Passo Principe.
At this point it is a good idea to break the tour by staying in one of the nearby huts: Rifugio Alpe di Tires, Rifugio Bergamo or Rifugio al Passo Principe. From this last (1h from the end of the Ferrata Laurenzi) - reachable via path 3A first and then 11 - you can take the via ferrata ascending to Catinaccio of Antermoia. Climb up this ferrata we can go down on the opposite side and go back to the Lake of Antermoia and then to the Rifugio Antermoia (2h 30 'from the Rifugio at Passo Principe - 11h total).
From the Rifugio d'Antermoia you can return along the approach path (14h total) with a 2-day itinerary.
The Ferrata Laurenzi was optimally renovated in 2017 following a period of closure. Before the renewal it was an itinerary that - in the central section - was more similar to a mountaineering itinerary than a via ferrata. After the recent restructuring and maintenance, the route has become a via ferrata in all respects with a lower level of difficulty than the previous version. The ferrata has a strong exposure, has no escape routes and extends in a wild stretch of the Catinaccio group. The itinerary requires a long approach and a long return from all the starting points and therefore requires good physical preparation and careful planning.
Given the long approach and return required to reach the Ferrata Laurenzi, this itinerary is definitely recommended within a multi-day itinerary within the Catinaccio group. Starting from Mazzin, one of the possible combinations is the Maximilian Ferrata above the Tires Hut. If you wanted to cover a longer loop, you could go down the Vajolet Valley and follow the Via Ferrata to Passo Santner or the Via Ferrata Bepo de Medil possibly combined with Aided path of the Scalette downhill. In general the Catinaccio area offers countless ideas for aided trips.
Approach: 3:30 h
Ferrata: 3:00 h
Itinerary: 14:00 h
Via Ferrata gap: 250 m
Route difference: 1452 m
Max altitude: 2852 m
Length: 25 Km