Introduction:
The Ferrata at the Madonnina del Coren is a pleasant ferrata that goes up the Corna Camoscera in an itinerary of medium difficulty without particular exposure. The route has a couple of slightly more difficult passages - a chimney and a cave - which overall make the route pleasant even for the more experienced Ferratists. To be avoided after heavy rains to avoid greatly increasing the difficulty associated with wet rock.
Starting location:
The starting point of the itinerary is the hamlet of Cavaglia in the municipality of Brembilla in the province of Bergamo. Once in Brembilla, go up to the right along a winding mountain road that ends at Cavaglia. At the end of the road we will have to find a roadside parking area.
Directions for Google Maps available here.
Approach:
From the village go up a ramp towards the center of the village where we will immediately meet a marked path. We continue inside the wood on the CAI 596 up to a saddle: on the right we continue towards the Rifugio dei Lupi di Brembilla while on the left we take our path. Proceed inside the forest while we see the Corna Camoscera our destination. We continue in steep ascent in the direction of the ferrata and the crag to a junction where the normal route is signposted to the right and the aided via ferrata to the left. We continue to the left for the last 10 minutes of steep path to the start of the Via Ferrata della Madonnina del Coren (40 'from the parking lot). irto sentiero fino all'attacco della via Ferrata della Madonnina del Coren (40' dal parcheggio).
Via Ferrata:
The Ferrata of the Madonnina del Coren begins with a series of rocky steps to the right and subsequently with a short stretch of aided path until it enters a rocky gully. An easy step in split and out of the gully to then face a short vertical wall in which some brackets help us in the progression. We go up a slippery ramp and we arrive in front of a short leap that we cross to the left and we enter inside a second gully that is exceeded standing on the left side and then proceed briefly in split, more supported than the previous one. Once out of the gully, a short wall and we are off the gully and take a long climb up a flight of steps without significant difficulties. After a few minutes of easy climb we reach a rocky rib of about 20 meters that can be climb upd in pleasant climbing. Once we reach the top of this stretch, we go down on its opposite side and climb up a second very tight vertical section.
After this vertical section we continue uphill between rocks and sections of aided path until the temporary end of the equipment. We follow the path reaching the entrance of a cave. We enter inside the cave with the chain that gradually rises to the inside along the right wall. We will notice at the top a stuck boulder and that is where we will have to go through the climb. In front of us there are two brackets in the first movements which, it could be worth doing, looking at the entrance of the big one taking advantage of a comfortable natural hold on the left side of the cave. Once we have climbed the first meters we proceed diagonally towards a stone and go over it as we see the end of the cave. We climb the second part of the cave diagonally going over a second stone
At the exit of the cave we meet the key passage of the route. You must go up a gully with big boulders inside. The gully initially rather large becomes narrower in the upper partThe lower part of the gully is easier for tall people who will more easily be able to climb up the boulders and position themselves on the right side for the second section of the chimney. Pay attention to one of the first carabiner passages where the chain is a bit loose. Climb up the first part of the gully with the help of a pair of brackets we reach the second narrowest part..
We are now at the last pass bypassed by an escape route. Climb up a 10-12 meter vertical wall with good holds both on the right and the left of the chain. Once ended the wall we are in sight of the summit cross and therefore we end this pleasant via ferrata with beatiful view on the near Grigne and Resegone (1h from the start - 1h 40 'from the parking lot).
Descent:
Do not remove the harness at the end of the via ferrata since some sections aided downhillwill be downclimbed. Once at the summit, continue in the opposite direction to where the ferrata took us. We go down some small jumps and then we enter the wood where, going down, we will meet first a section in disarampicata on some rocks often humid then they go down two metallic staircases. We continue along the path along the wood, following many hairpin bends, passing alongside climbing routes until we reach the crossroads encountered on approach. From that stretch, follow the path taken in the outward journey back to the car (1h from the end of the via ferrata - 2h 45 'total).
Notes:
The Ferrata of the Madonnina del Coren is to be avoided on days of unstable weather or subsequent to heavy rains due to the type of bottom and the rock that will be wet, considerably increasing the difficulties, otherwise moderate, of the climb.
Of the passages present, the chimney and the grotto deserve a mention. The first is certainly the more technical passage of the route and requires more attention. It is not an extremely physical passage but if you want to climb without forcing you must look carefully for the grips not always very close where good agility and hip opening helps. The cave is certainly the most exciting passage of the route and requires good concentration (and possibly also a frontal torch). It may be useful to climb it with the front facing the entrance to the cave.
Opportunities:
If this ferrata is finished, you want to do another good strike, an excellent possibility is to combine it with the Via Ferrata Maurizio to Alben, preferably along first the Mauritian and then the Madonnina of the Coren seen that the Maurizio is longer.
Alternatively you could combine a trip to the more challenging Ferrata to the Monte Ocone (attention to the length of the ferrata) or with some via ferratas of the Lecco area.
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ryuky94
31/10/2020 at 10:30La ferrata è chiusa dal 29/10/2020, con tanto di rimozione degli ancoraggi
Brahim Ounasser
19/09/2020 at 17:00La ferrata è stupenda. si parte proprio dalla frazione di cavaglia e si passa tra le casette imboccando un sentiero che ci porterà ai piedi della ferrata.
Prima di partire consultate la tabella informativa con la mappa che vi dirà quale sentiero prendere; per le falesie a destra, mentre invece se vi interessa la ferrata proseguite a sinistra. non è troppo impegnativa e le zone difficoltose o verticali sono veramente poche. ci sono addirittura certe zone con le scalette in’acciaio incastonate nella roccia, quindi potete capire bene che la difficoltà è media.
Veramente stupenda. consiglio di andarci durante una giornata di sole, o quantomeno con il cielo libero dalle nuvole per godere di una bella vista una volta arrivati alla croce in cima.
Vincenzo
16/09/2020 at 08:23Ferrata rifatta a nuovo. Non difficile. Prestare attenzione dentro la grotta per la roccia un po’ scivolosa.
diegorotamartir
10/09/2020 at 14:28Ferrata fatta in data 08.09.2020
Escursione molto piacevole, ferrata facile (da poco rimessa a nuovo) ma divertente con paesaggio bello lungo tutto il percorso.
La ferrata non è nè impegnativa nè particolarmente tecnica ma richiede un minimo di preparazione fisica. La grotta è sicuramente la chicca della via.
Consigliata per chi vuole fare un giro in ferrata non troppo lungo e senza troppe difficoltà.
Marco Sangalli
02/08/2020 at 17:09Ferrata piacevole, non difficile e con molti divertenti. Avvicinamento veloce ma ripido. Diversi tratti in arrampicata verticale, che diventano più interessanti se fatti senza usare la catena. La grotta è molto suggestiva. In discesa incontrerete un paio di scalette, quindi non togliete l’imbrago.
Diego
01/07/2020 at 15:26Ferrata non difficile, fatta con mia figlia di 10 anni, se non nella parte della grotta perchè bagnata e molto scivolosa. Ci sono dei punti con degli appigli un po alti per persone di altezza media ma comunque tutti fattibili e in sicurezza. Nell’ultima parte, prima di arrivare alla croce, c’è da una paretina da arrampicare in verticale di circa 10 metri…..molto carina, con molti appigli e aggirabile, per chi non se la sentisse di farla, tramite sentiero.
Nella fase di discesa con disarrampicata non ci sono particolari problemi tranne la roccia sempre un po umida e quindi scivolosa, ma il tratto è breve.
Nel complesso la ferrata risulta essere di approccio abbastanza fisico (per chi come noi era un po fuori allenamento) per via delle trazioni con braccia, ma nel complesso divertente. Adatta anche a chi è alle prime armi, abbiamo incontrato diverse persone per le quali era la prima ferrata.
Roberto Denaro
03/06/2020 at 22:26Molto carina, il passaggio (breve) in grotta vale la ferrata. Arrivati in vetta attenti alle zecche, io e la mia compagna ne abbiamo prese una a testa.
ire.zardini
28/08/2019 at 20:18The via ferrata in the complex is quite simple, so I suggest you try to use the cables as little as possible and have fun looking for natural rock grips, so I found a couple of walls challenging. The cave is very scenic, makes this via ferrata special. Overall it is a satisfying via ferrata. Approach and return to a typical mountain path.
Grigis Paolo
20/08/2019 at 14:10Ferrata very funny and elementary. Suitable for practicing a little before embarking on more complex paths. The itinerary as a whole is short and can be concluded in the morning without forced march. Recommended.
danielatablo
17/08/2019 at 22:05The via ferrata requires good concentration and physical effort especially for those who are beginners.
the approach, although well marked, is quite challenging.
Little exposed and with two really suggestive points, the cave and the chimney, make it a very beautiful via ferrata also for the panorama.
I point out a dangerous point on the return path just after the junction between the path and the ferrata where the path is narrow and the ground is soft.
Overall ferrata "tough" but satisfying.
canamtb
15/07/2019 at 22:41Completely renewed ferrata with a beautiful brand new metal cable, safely everywhere and this is a very important thing. As far as difficulty is concerned, it is a decidedly affordable course that in some places requires some physical effort, especially if you do not have a good climbing technique. The airy is really limited therefore in my opinion it is a perfect via ferrata to gradually pass from easy to moderately difficult. Beautiful passage in the cave, makes the via ferrata very characteristic and different from the usual.
david.bianchi64
13/01/2019 at 11:30Overall, ferrata is not difficult, never exposed, and with some interesting features, such as the passage to a cave. After the cave you climb by pulling on the cable and a little further ahead there is a difficult passage in the chimney which is difficult. I climbed to the right on the advice of those before me. Approach not short and with a discreet gap.