Via Ferrata Marangoni in Mori

Introduction:

The Ferrata Marangoni above the village of Mori is a via ferrata that technically does not present particular difficulties. The recent rebuilding of the ferrata has greatly improved the equipment and in some cases has completely removed the technical difficulties, however the type of rock particularly smooth and greasy requires some attention. The Ferrata is characterized by high exposure along large tracts of the route and is athletic in some sections due to some overhanging points. Ideal for mid-season and mild winters without snow. Attention in the summer given the exposure to the east, the morning is all in the sun and get really hot.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is the town of Mori in the province of Trento. The wall on which the road extends overlooks the town is already visible from the motorway. Once in the town, there is ample parking near the intersection between Via Marconi and Via della Terra Nera.

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

From the large parking lot we walk towards the center where we will turn to the right towards the impressive rocky bastion and the Sanctuary visible above the village. Following the indications in the village we will reach a paved path that climbs steeply in the direction of the sanctuary. We follow the obvious indications and arrive at the Sanctuary. From the Sactuary, many free climbing routes begins we follow the signs for the via ferrata (25 'from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata:

The start of the via ferrata is unusual. To the right of the slab there is a three-meter stretch to go up for free climbing without protection. The stretch would be very complicated to climb but a providential bracket placed at the top helps us to have enough grip to detach the feet and find the first grip that can be used on the right. From this first step, the type of rock can be seen. We are talking about a very compact but extremely smooth rock, greasy in which it is difficult to grip with both hands and feet. In addition, the countless passes from when the ferrata was inaugurated have completed the work.

Climbed these first three meters we cross slightly to the right and we begin a climb along a dihedral with a slightly overhanging passage but optimally assisted with wide bends (a situation that we will meet almost along the whole route). We leave the dihedral to the left and we go up an aided chimney. This chimney, which would certainly be very difficult, is quite easy with the brackets placed in difficult spots. We climb along a rocky ramp followed by some small rocks and we are on a wide airy where we momentarily detach the carabiners. On the left we will notice a wall of 8-10 meters on which we climb vertically with abundant pegs.

We leave the wall going up a couple of boulders and the cable takes us to the first very exposed point of the route: we face with an horizontal traverse a horizontal traverse in which we will have to carefully evaluate where to put our feet looking for the present holds. Some brackets will help us in the smoothest stretches . The traverse continues with a slight up and down in the central section. Before concluding the traverse we go up a ledge with some brackets and go up an edge. We proceed slightly to the left facing a narrow and long aided dihedral. We are now on a stretch of the via ferrata rather physical that leaves us no time to rest. In fact , coming out of the dihedral, we make a short traverse to the right and again on an aided corner. The climb, although not technically difficult, is quite demanding in this section without breaks. We leave the dihedral exploiting some natural grips present in its upper part. We continue to the left in an inclined stretch that is not difficult and then reach a traverse to the left. The traverse takes us to the most iconographic point of the via ferrata: a traverse overhang that makes us bypass a vertical airy edge above the starting point of the itinerary. This passage is exposed but not particularly difficult, given the presence of some excellent brackets. We complete the traverse slightly downhill until we reach a metal slab at the base of a dihedral. Like the previous ones, also this dihedral is well served by brackets and with the exception of exposure and possible tiredness it does not present particular difficulties. We leave the dihedral with a diagonal traverse with which we bypass a new edge and reach a a path where it is possible to take a breath by walking towards the second half of the via ferrata.

After having covered the easy connecting path aided in certain points in the exposed we find ourselves under a long chimney. The chimney would be very demanding but the brackets placed first on the right side then on the left side greatly reduce the difficulties. We start diagonally to the right until we reach a small terrace and then continue along the left side of the chimney vertically uphill We leave the chimney on a panoramic roof where we walk a airy but not difficult to cross an edge. We go around the edge helped by a couple of brackets and we continue along a ledge. At the end of the ledge , climb up a vertical slab where we then turn left downhill on some large boulders until we reach the nth corner beyond which there is a exposed but not difficult side. The traverse soon becomes a rocky ledge and then rises a few meters and continues to the left with moderate difficulty. We are near a box where there is the book of signatures next to a long vertical wall that in the upper part takes the form of a a dihedral and then later out on the slab. The ascent in this section is not difficult but it is exposed and it may be tiring . We cross slightly to the right and face the upper part of the wall with an overhanging section in which to proceed quickly to get out of it without excessively tiring the arms already stressed by the climb now at its final stage. We leave this long and exposed wall crossing slightly to the left, we climb up some easier rocks and we are under the last wall of the route. This is slightly overhanging and it is advisable to gather the last energies well before going along it, given the fatigue that could be present. At the end of the road the path climbs up on wooden steps towards the left until the end of the equipment and the Ferrata Marangoni.

Descent:

From the end of the equipment we go up the path meeting a bench ideal for a break and look at the town from above. To return we continue along the path to a first saddle where we keep the right uphill. Later we will keep to the left ignoring on the right the signs for Nomesimo and taking the descent to Mori. The path is steep but without particular difficulties and brings us near a crossroads encountered on the approach path near the Sanctuary. At the sanctuary there are benches and picnic areas. From the sanctuary backwards through the path traveled to the car park (40 'from the end of the via ferrata - 2h 45' total).

Notes:

The Ferrata Marangoni has changed radically compared to the initial itinerary created in the mid-70s. The via ferrata is now of medium difficulty with almost no possibility of climbing. However, it must be said that the type of rock made the climb very arduous and physical with little possibility of climbing, and the new equipment makes the progression more pleasant and less daring. However, the high exposure and adrenaline that accompanies us along the route remains of the original idea of the via ferrata. It remains a via ferrata that should not be underestimated for exposure and fatigue in some sections.

A note on safety. We advise you to wear a helmet and harness already at the sanctuary so as to avoid a lot of start because a stretch of ferrata (the most exposed) passes right over our heads and if material falls it could have serious consequences.

Storia:

Come accennato la ferrata Mori risale agli anni 70, precisamente venne inaugurata nel 1976 e fu per l'epoca una via rivoluzionaria. Fino a quel momento, le vie ferrate erano di stampo classico salendo pareti rocciose e cercandone le debolezze con l'obiettivo di raggiungere la cima di un monte. Moltissimi sono gli itinerari dolomitici già presenti negli anni 70. La Ferrata Marangoni fu la prima ferrata "estema", almeno per l'epoca. La via risaliva una bastionata rocciosa che non conduceva a nessuna vetta, non se ne seguiva necessariamente la direttrice meno impegnativa, anzi, si strizzava l'occhio alle difficoltà della parete. Erano gli anni in cui a fianco dell'alpinismo prendeva piede l'arrampicata sportiva e, a suo modo, la Ferrata di Mori rispecchia quel cambiamento in atto modificando la prospettiva con cui veniva costruita una via ferrata. In breve, gli itinerari attrezzati sportivi si moltiplicarono anche nelle immediate vicinanze di Mori, ad esempio la Pisetta and the Rio Secco risalgono a quel periodo.

Opportunities:

The Ferrata Marangoni in Mori is a classic ferrata that for approach, duration and difficulty can be combined with another aided itinerary in its vicinity. The area of the top Lake Garda it is rich in via ferratas and among the possible alternatives there are in ascending order of technical difficulty Via Ferrata Colodri and Aided Path of Cavre that can be matched together, the Ferrata Sallagoni, the Via Ferrata Gerardo Sega or going up in difficulty you could even go through the very difficult Via Ferrata Pisetta in Sarche. Moving to the north we will be able to follow the Ferrata to the Rio Ruzza waterfall or the Ferrata Artpinistica in Preore. Continuing north in Val d'Adige you can meet in Aldeno il Aided path de le Stel. In Val d'Adige it is also possible to walk along the Via Ferrata Rio Secco near Cadino.

If you are looking for an accomodation close to this route, we recommendAppartamento Via Ferratain the historical center of Mori. Apartment of 103 sqm, 5 beds and 1 cot. Follow this link for more info and Federico's contact details.