Ferrata Marguerettaz

Introduction:

The Ferrata Marguerettaz is the classic ferrata ideal for a neophyte to try out a via ferrata route. Technically it presents no difficulty, it goes up a protected environment, with no environmental adversity after a simple approach.

Starting location:

The starting point is near the town of Morgex in the province of Aosta. From Morgex take the SR39 which coming from Aosta goes up to the left after having crossed the Dora Baltea in the direction of Arpy. On the SR39 at the ninth hairpin there is an open space where you can park. In this case you will climb 200 m uphill on foot. Alternative is to continue after the bend about 200 m with the car and see if in the two spaces (one on the right and one on the left of the road) there is parking - limited space.

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

From the parking lot along the road you will notice a dirt road that goes into the woods on the right side. It is not possible to enter by car (no transit sign). Follow the signs for the "Hans Marguerettaz" climbing wall. Follow the uphill dirt road with yellow-black marks. Along the dirt road we will reach a crossroads where we keep to the right in a slight slope reaching a stream that we cross over a bridge of trunks. You will soon reach the first cliffs, continue to the right and begin to climb along the wood, bypassing the rocky prominence. Continue past the climbing area dedicated to children and go up a few bends again until the start of the metal equipment (30 'from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata:

The easy via ferrata starts going up a vertical wall aided with brackets that makes a short detour to the left up to a red staircase with protection. Go up the ladder and pass some simple jumps to the left. An easy vertical wall is attached which places us on a ledge sloping to the right which effectively divides the short ferrata into two. After crossing the whole ledge you reach a dihedral with equipment that you go up in a short time and then you end the ferrata after a short stretch of aided path (20 'from the start - 50' total).

Descent:

Our suggestion is to follow the easy via ferrata backwards gaining experience in climbing in an easy and environmentally free context. Alternatively, go around the rocky spur on your left and go up the red along a path through the trees. We then descend from the climbing routes and then backwards along the path approaching the car (calculate approximately 30 '- 1h 30' total)

Notes:

This is an ideal via ferrata for those who engage in this type of trip for the first time. There are no technical difficulties or excessive exposure.

Opportunities:

Not far from Morgex going up the valley, you can reach the interesting trip that leads to the Ferrata del Bicentenario at Mont Chetif. If you have children and want to continue on a path of approaching via ferrata, two interesting alternatives can be found in the Grassoney valley Ferrata Harry Potter and the Ferrata of the Children.