Ferrata Mazzocchi

Introduction:

The Ferrata Mazzocchi is part of a scenic rewarding itinerary in an area on the border between the provinces of Piacenza and Genoa in the Monte Nero area. The via ferrata is of limited difficulty with the exception of a more demanding passage.

Starting location:

The starting point of the trip is the Zavallo Pass in the province of Piacenza. The pass can be reached both from Piacenza and Chiavari (A12).

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

To reach the start of the Ferrata Mazzocchi it is necessary to follow the path that from the Passo dello Zovallo (1405 m) leads us to the Bivacco Sacchi (1600 m). We take the 001 path in the direction of the Black Lake. It is important to ignore all the various deviations that lead from the main path to other directions (eg: Lago Nero Rifugio) up to the glacial basin (1541 m -50 '). Walk along the northern shore and leave the 001 path to Sella Costazza and we will take the 011 path towards Fontana Gelata. On reaching this clearing (fountain just above the path) we take path 007 towards Bivacco Sacchi. Cross the small stream and climb up steeply until you reach the basin of the Dente delle Ali where the Sacchi Shelter is present (7 beds in self-management). Following the directions, you reach the Ferrata (5 'from the Shelter - 1h 45' from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata:

The via ferrata begins with a diagonal stretch to the left with limited difficulties. At the end of the ramp, after a slightly steeper stretch, we reach a traverse expanse aided with both cable and chain. After the traverse we reach an edge that, once crossed, leads to the first ladder of the route. This ladder is made up of pegs and chain (pay attention to stability uphill). At the end of the staircase, continue on a ledge to reach a rocky prominence that we can go around to the left or climb on a slightly overhanging wall with the aid of some brackets.

At the end of this pulpit we arrive at a wide ledge where there is an escape route on the left (indicated with an arrow). Alternatively, continue on a sloping slab that is poor in grips to get around an exposed edge where the cable is needed and adherence with the boots (key passage). We reach a chimney where we can choose two options:

1. to the right we go up the chimney until we reach a staircase, or
2. to the left we go up the wall of the dark chimney and then we follow a traverse exposure without handholds which tends to throw us out until we reach the ladder and insert ourselves with the easy variant.

The staircase is completed and a small terrace is reached. Continuing on a ledge we reach the last long staircase. At the end of the ladder we face the last jump of about 3 meters that leaves us on the slabau of the Groppo delle Ali (1689 m - 1h from the start - 2h 45 'from the parking lot) to enjoy the view towards Monte Nero, Monte Bue and the Ragola.

Descent:

From the top there are some descent options:

• return to the Bivacci Sacchi via the normal route (red and white trail markers) and retrace the itinerary of the outward journey (1h 30 '- 4h 15' total), or
• head in the direction of Monte Bue (1771 m) following a sustained climb inside the wood first and then a mule track. From the top we join the 001 path that leads us to Sella Costazza. We take the 003 path that leads us to Monte Nero (1752 m - 1h from the ferrata term - 3h 45 'from the parking lot) after following an interesting ridge and climbing up a steep aided gully. After the summit, go down the north-east ridge ignoring the various detours until reaching the 001 path not far from the Zavallo pass (4h 45 'from the parking lot).

Notes:

The Ferrata Mazzocchi is an interesting via ferrata, not particularly long and of moderate difficulty. It can be an excellent choice during mid-seasons both for a rewarding trip and for a trainer in view of via ferrata in alpine areas.

A feature related to the local landscape are the pines pines that accompany us along the ascent route on the northern slope.

Storia:

La Ferrata Mazzocchi è stata installata nel 1979 ed è intitolata a un socio della sezione CAI Piacenza, molto attivo sia nell’associazione che come alpinista, deceduto il 25 maggio 1975 alle Pale di San Martino mentre rientrava dopo aver salito la via del Velo.

Opportunities:

The Mazzocchi Ferrata is linked in a loop itinerary with the Via Ferrata Adolfo Ferrari. The itinerary lengthens (6h) but amply repays the hiker, given the long approach to the car it seems a logical solution.