Introduction:
When you are about to reach Civago - the last outpost in the Reggio territory before reaching the Radici pass - you cannot miss a rocky peak that overlooks the town. The Penna of Civago (literally "Civago's Feather") is characterized by a sharp profile composed of several walls that rapidly rise to 1400 m. A difficult but short ferrata has recently been completed on this bold wall.
Start point:
The starting point is the village Case di Civago which can be reached in about 1 hour and 30 minutes from Reggio Emilia or Modena. Once in Case di Civago it is possible to park the car along the abundant parking lots in the dirt road from which several well-trodden paths lead to the Battisti, Segheria and Bargetana huts.
Directions for Google Maps available here.
Approach:
Park the car, continue on foot on the dirt road for 5 minutes always keeping the Penna of Civago on our right until you see a sign from which a steep track branches off. Follow the path with white trail signs that first climb steeply for a stony ground and then for steep paths. A exposed traverse leads us to the beginning of the equipment (30 'from the parking lot).
Via Ferrata:
The via ferrata is characterized by a vertical character immediately. The sandstone is sometimes not very climbable so pegs, handles and brackets are optimally arranged to facilitate progression. The ferrata initially extends on two dihedrals then pass an exposed edge and continue on a challenging chimney. Once the chimney is finished, cross a grassy path where you can stop and rest before the second and more demanding part of the via ferrata begins.
The second part of the via ferrata immediately begins with a vertical and slightly overhanging wall in which the metal equipment helps the progression, however, on a fairly high level of difficulty. Once this wall of about 10 meters is finished, you will find yourself on a small ledge where you can recover your strength before the key passage of the routean overhanging belly on an 8 meter wallAlthough optimally aided, this belly requires to be approached with caution and rapidity of movement to avoid finding oneself without more strength in the arms before having finished it. The advice is to study the arrangement of all the handles before facing the overhanging section.
Once the key passage is over, you find yourself in an exposed sandstone slab in which some brackets in which some brackets facilitate the ascent although it is difficult to avoid pulling the cable in at least a couple of points because of the peculiarity of the rock (smooth sandstone).
Once this slab is finished we are in the final stretch of the via ferrata with difficulties now contained. In 5 'we finish the climb of a small wall and the overcoming of an exposed but simple ledge. At this point the ferrata is finished and you can enjoy a beautiful view from above over Civago, over Lake Fontanaluccia and over Monte Giovarello (1h from the start - 1h 30 'total).
Descent:
Before starting the actual descent you have to continue 5 minutes uphill on a steep path that leads us onto a CAI path. You can return to Civago either by going to the right or to the left. However we suggest to continue to the left (CAI 631 A) towards the Cavallina. This path is less steep than CAI 607 and about the same time (40 ') takes us back to the parking lot. From CAI 631 A you descend until you reach the CAI 605 which will be taken to the left. If you need to stock up on water you can take the CAI 605 to the right for 5 'where there is a source. The path 605 is a comfortable mule track that ends in the dirt road where the car has been parked (2h 30 'total).
Notes:
This via ferrata is short however it is athletic and a couple of steps can put in serious difficulty the inexperienced or poorly trained hiker. A peculiarity is that the difficult stretches are gradually increasing after the start leaving, in fact, few opportunities to interrupt the ascent and retrace your steps. In the summer of 2018, 2 additional brackets were inserted in the key passage of the route which significantly reduced the difficulty of this passage.
Opportunities:
Although there are no other via ferratas reachable without using the car, the via ferrata Barranco del Dolo it is 4 km away from Case di Civago so it lends itself very well to be the natural continuation for the enthusiast hikera.
If you want to continue a more traditional trip you could continue on CAI 607 up to Monte Ravino and then go along the Alpe di Vallestrina and reach the Passone (2 h from the end of the ferrata). From the Passone you can turn left onto the CAI 615 towards Lama Lite (possibility of refreshment at the Battisti hut). From Lama Lite you can descend the valley towards Rifugio Segheria and then towards Case di Civago (4:30 h from the end of the Ferrata).
If you wish to return to the car, it is possible to do one of the following ferrates on the same day:
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Lorenzo Zoffoli
09/11/2020 at 08:49Percorsa inizio novembre, periodo ideale per temperatura in quanto la ferrata è esposta al sole sin dalla mattina.
Avvicinamento di 30/40 minuti ma molto ripido: da affrontare con calma per non finire le forze ancora prima di iniziare la ferrata.
Ferrata di per se non difficile, arrampicabile e non esposta per cui molto divertente. Sono sempre presenti dei punti di sosta dove riposare e riprendere le energia. Come da tutti citato il punto chiave è nell’ultimo tratto in un diedro con esposizione negativa. Riprendere le energie prima di affrontarlo, studiarlo accuratamente ed eseguirlo tutto di un fiato perchè lo sforzo fisico sulle braccia è notevole: questo passaggio potrebbe risultare ostico.
In ogni punto di sosta notevole la vista su civago e su tutta la valle del dolo.
Rientro in 40/50min di camminata in discesa.
paolo-3889
23/09/2020 at 04:18Inizio settembre, ferrata molto bella forse quella vicino del Dolo è più bella ed un po più impegnativa fatto salvo il punto finale.
ATTENZIONE nell’avvicinamento si dice di partire a 5 minuti dal parcheggio, invece il sentiero con un gran cartello ma un po imboscato, parte già dal parcheggio, pochi metri dopo la posizione su Google Map. Altrimenti rischiate di salire dalla discesa.
Ferrata bella e neanche troppo difficile, fatto salvo il citato punto in cui vi troverete un aggancio/sgancio di moschettone sbilanciati molto indietro, operazione mai agevole, soprattutto per persone pesanti o con zaini pesanti.
C’è di bello che i punti impegnativi sono tutti piuttosto brevi, e c’è posto e tempo per prepararsi o ricuperare.
Michele
13/01/2020 at 08:23Percorsa sabato 11/01/2020.
Ha un passaggio un pochino più fisico ma è attrezzato bene con il cavo e con i pioli per salire.
Percorsa in questo periodo ha un fascino particolare perchè i boschi circostanti sono privi di foglie lasciano vedere tutto il panorama.
Negli ultimi passaggi si sposta verso destra per ammirare tutta la valle del Dolo con Civago Fontanaluccia e il lago.
Consiglio di affrontare l’avvicinamento con calma perchè molto ripido.
mirko_cova
23/09/2019 at 09:31Very beautiful via ferrata with beautiful passages and interesting progressions. Some points need a little more physique. Towards the end there is an overhanging wall where the change of the carabiners is not very comfortable. The view over the Dolo valley during the ascent is rewarding.
The approach path is steep so measure out the energy.
assowt
25/08/2019 at 23:00The approach, a steep path mostly on a stony ground has almost put me in crisis. I don't find the ferrata itself particularly satisfying, the last overhanging wall has drained my last energy. The exit in the middle of a wood can be regenerating in the summer but it takes away the satisfaction of a peak and a panorama that can be worth the effort.
Francesco Galli
17/07/2019 at 19:04Ferrara beautiful in a
Gioele Carboni
21/06/2019 at 19:02Very "technical" via ferrata. The sandstone is excellent and although smooth it still offers a good "grip" to the boots. It must be tackled by not pulling on arms but on the contrary looking for all the holds and supports that sandstone climbing (although it is a ferrata) requires, especially when crossing slabs. Beautiful the initial dihedral and the "key" passage that I faced starting immediately from the right towards the edge ignoring in fact the two brackets on the left. As always 10 and praise to the builders.
If you want to continue the hike, at the crossroads with the two downhill paths, continue straight (Cai white and red signs) up to Monte Ravino (1882 m asl approx. 1h 15 ′) from where you can enjoy a panorama that it covers almost all of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines.
cammo75
03/06/2019 at 11:33Traveled date 11.05.2019 Assuming that my experience is at the beginning, I find this via ferrata generally on average difficult if not in a point (practically at the end of the route) that requires physical effort to pass a short vertical exposed passage where it is necessary to study well the footholds available and this makes it not easy; however beautiful and satisfying.
From the point of view of the trip, apart from some foreshortenings on the underlying town of Civago it is not particularly panoramic, even when you reach the end of the ferrata you find yourself inside the wood where there are many possibilities for beautiful trips to reach panoramic points of the Appennino Reggiano, but with several hours of travel.
tommy.76
24/04/2019 at 13:10Ferrata not simple and alternating between walls and stretches of walk… .the beginning seems easy but the last wall is overhanging and with a key passage in negative is not easy even if clamped… beautiful the forest on top
Alessandro Iotti
19/08/2018 at 15:41The approach is quite tiring going up a steep stony ground. The two-thirds ferrata is of medium difficulty with not too demanding passages. The last part changes gear and has two overhanging sections of which the second is selective. Once the overhang is finished, climb up a very exposed vertical smooth slab where it will be impossible to climb and proceed in traction. Compared to the first time I did it, 3 brackets were added to the challenging overhang that allow the feet to rest and therefore significantly reduce the difficulty. My side, a pity since reducing the difficulty also reduces the palatability of the route.