Ferrata Olivieri

Introduction:

The Ferrata Olivieri is a beautiful and demanding via ferrata ascending to Punta Anna in the Tofane area. Hike to the Pomedes Hut from which undertake the climb on excellent rock. Exposed itinerary with very interesting passages that will turn out to be very climbable and rewarding.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is the Baita Pie di Tofana above Cortina d'Ampezzo. The hut is the starting point of the chairlift ascending to the Rifugio Duca d'Aosta and then to the Rifugio Pomedes from which to take the Ferrata to Punta Anna. This departure is ideal if you follow these routes:

• go along the Ferrata Olivieri alone and go down to the valley with Aided path Olivieri or with the cable car that descends from the Ra Vales hut (2470 m) to the valley.
• The Ferrata Olivieri is combined with the Ferrata Aglio with Tofana di Mezzo and return to the valley with the cable car that starts from the Rifugio Cima Tofana (3190 m)

Directions for Google Maps available here.

If you want to end the Ferrata Olivieri before the Dos di Tofana descending to Rifugio Giussani. In this case it is advisable to take the itinerary from the Dibona Hut. Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

From the Baita Pie Tofana (1675 m) we will have to reach the Rifugio Pomedes (2303 m). The most comfortable solution is to get on the chair lift. Alternatively you can climb the Sentiero 405 to the Rifugio Duca d'Aosta (2098 m) and then to the large cart track to Rifugio Pomedes (2h). Already during the approach we see straight to us thesharp peak of Punta Anna stand out above our heads.

If you opt for the path from the Dibona Hut you reach the Pomedes Hut with the path 421 (45 ').

From Rifugio Pomedes we follow the directions present behind the arrival station of the chair lift. The indications lead us to a steep path which quickly gains share initially climbing on the meadows then on scree. We climb in the direction of one saddle where is the beginning slab of the Ferrata Olivieri (2440 m - 30 'from the Rifugio Pomedes).

Via Ferrata:

Already from the start we feel the kind of via ferrata that we are going to face. Vertical rock, few brackets and other support equipment, but on the other hand good rock. We climb a first wall of about twenty meters well-appropriated and climbing that bends slightly to the right in the upper part. We finish this wall and then bend towards initially with a slightly downward stretch then with a traverse with good grips for the feet and then climbing some rocks to the right. We continue along a convenient ledge to the left. We go around an edge and climb a vertical jump that places us on a small terrace with a wonderful view of the Tofana di Rozes and his impressive southern wall. We climb decided on rocks without difficulty and well climbable reaching a saddle. The equipment stops and we are on a comfortable path with which we cross the saddle and straight ahead the magnificent bulk of the Tofana di Mezzo.

We now start a exposed edge. Good rock makes it climbing and offers good grips for hands and feet. In the first part of the corner we remain on the right side of the ridge edge of the edge earning rapidly altitude. We climb the edge meeting a couple of not particularly wide points where it is possible to stop until you reach a wider balcony where we have a wonderful view of the Averau and the Nuvolau. Let's start by going up one slightly overhanging 4-meter wall with just a few handles where you will need to use the cable. We are in the final section of the long edge. We are now in strong exposure on a rather sharp stretch of the ridge that bends slightly to the left going up towards theobvious pulpit above our head. We cross to the left into a non-trivial passage to then begin to climb a wall where the rope proceeds to zig Zag looking for weak sides of the wall to climb more easily. We proceed going up always in strong exposure but counting on well-grained rock with medium difficulty passages.

We now reach a groove where we cross to the left without particular difficulties. We go up first diagonally on some rocks then along a well-indented wall climbing a rather challenging vertical wall. We go around a corner and momentarily ends the cable on a lookout point. We are now over 2700 m altitude and below we see Cortina d'Ampezzo. We begin a stretch of path at high altitude where only some passages are aided. We face an up and down and we reach a saddle from which it is possible to go down a path aided to reach the left Giussani Rifugio (visible - see return option 3 below). We keep to the right and continue following the red trail signs in the direction of Dos de Tofana where the road ends. We continue on the aided path reaching a saddle where we meet a smooth vertical slab to climb in adherence. We climb a short but challenging dihedral that will be cramped in one passage. We are in the final stretch of the route: we start a ledge that starts horizontally and then goes up steeper (some brackets present) until it returns to the horizontal and leaves us at Dos de Tofana (2850 m - 1h 30 'from the start - 2h from Rifugio Pomedes) where ends the Ferrata Olivieri.

Descent:

We will have 3 options for the return:

1. From the Dos de Tofana we follow the path that descends towards the Ra Vales Hut. The first section is steep but then it descends into a valley that reaches a crossroads (2580 m) where keeping the right we take the Aided path Olivieri that takes us back to Rifugio Pomedes (2h 15 'from the end of the Ferrata Olivieri - 4h 30' from the Hut) Pomedes).
2. We continue to the left of the zigzag junction, starting the path that, via the Ferrata Aglio, will lead us to the Tofana di Mezzo and then to the top station of the cable car (3h from the end of the Ferrata Olivieri - 5h 30 'total). With the cable car it will be possible to return to the valley going down to the second intermediate station at Col Druscè. We go down and via path 413 we reach the parking lot (10 ').
3. From the junction for Rifugio Giussani before the last stretch of the Ferrata Olivieri we descend along a path that is sometimes aided ed exposed but not difficult reaching the Rifugio Giussani (1h - 3h from Rifugio Pomedes). Through the frequented path 403 we return to the Rifugio Dibona where it is preferable to leave the car in case you opt for this return.

Notes:

The Ferrata Olivieri is an exposed ferrata, intense with medium difficulty. Some passages are more challenging and, added to the high mountain environment, make it a difficult but not prohibitive itinerary. The rock we meet on the way up is very good, jagged and well-climbed. The rope is thick and generally well stretched as it is very helpful in the progression.

Opportunities:

As indicated in the report, the via ferrata is often combined with the Ferrata Aglio to the Tofana di Mezzo or to the Olivieri Aided path to return to the Pomedes Hut from which it is possible to follow the Ferrate Ra Bujela and Ra Pegna in the immediate vicinity. If you opt for the return itinerary 3 you can go down from the Rifugio Giussani to the Ferrata Scala of the Menighel which will allow us to complete a return itinerary bypassing the Tofana di Rozes. Another option with the return for itinerary 3 is to travel on Aided path Astaldi which bypasses the base of the south face of Punta Anna. For longer itineraries it is possible to combine the Ferrata Aglio with the Ferrata Formenton taking into consideration, however, the overall length and height of the itinerary. In the direction of Passo Falzarego, we can instead take the Ferrata Tomaselli, the recent one Ferrata Fusetti at Sass de Stria, the Ferrata to the Col dei Bos and the Ferrata to the Averau.