Introduction:
The Pietra di Bismantova is a unique rock formation that characterizes the lower part of the Reggio Apennines. The Pietra di Bismantova is a very popular destination in the provinces of Emilia by climbers for the more than 80 climbing routes (crags and multipitch). From 2017 a second easy via ferrata has been opened on the West wall.
Start point:
The starting point for the Ferrata Ovest or the Ultimo Sole is Piazzale Dante in Castelnuovo ne Monti in the province of Reggio Emilia. To reach Castelnuovo ne Monti generally take the SS 63 of Cerreto and, once in the village, follow the abundant indications for the Pietra di Bismantova. Plenty of parking opportunities, although often insufficient in the summer.
Directions for Google Maps available here.
Approach:
Leaving the car in the large square, go up the staircase, reach the Rifugio della Pietra, skirt it and follow the uphill path of the main path (CAI 697) to the summit slabau. They skirt impressive rocky walls in which it is easy to see climbers. In about 20 minutes from the car you come to a crossroads where a sign indicates the entrance to the ferrata on the left. In a few meters downhill you reach the start of theFerrata Ovest.
Via Ferrata:
The via ferrata is divided into 2 parts:
Descent:
Continue straight on the summit meadows, grafting onto the CAI 697 that goes down to the right towards Piazzale Dante (20 minutes from the end of the via ferrata).
A possible alternative is to go and see the final wall from the most famous Ferrata degli Alpini rising up the opposite wall (East). In this case, at the end of the ferrata continue to the left following the wide path that goes around the summit meadows. Once you reach the west wall, the final part of the ladder with which the via ferrata ends is clearly visible. Going around the wall to the left you will be able to clearly see the climb line of the ferrata (10 'from the end of the West Ferrata).
Notes:
Easy via ferrata, ideal for those who want to approach this type of aided itinerary. For people with good ferrata experience it is possible to follow this downhill ferrata, perhaps after having traveled the Ferrata degli Alpini on the more complex East face. During the return, it is advisable not to remove the helmet until the arrival at the Rifugio della Pietra since it is not uncommon to see stones falling.
Opportunities:
Ferratas that can be connected in the same itinerary:
Nearby via ferratas that can be reached by car on the same day:
The other Via Ferratas in the province of Reggio Emilia (Aided path of the Gendarme and Ferrata del Monte Alto) are included in long itineraries that are suitable for full-day trips.
You must be logged in to post a comment.
cellucceli
25/05/2020 at 17:05Ottimo itinerario per introdurre alla verticalità i principianti e le giovani generazioni (a otto anni mia figlia l’ha fatta senza particolari difficoltà), perché non è stancante e d’estate si può fare al fresco di prima mattina
guazer
27/08/2019 at 12:34Route very rewarding easy but with a bit of difficulty on the vertical dihedral, always very sticky…. Made on 08/26/2019 in the morning so totally in the shade recommended in this hot period. first section. Towards the end of the second section, some clipping can be "brigands" due to the short tarmac on the rock and the zig-zag path always vertical. of the local CAI.Only negative note the cable is sometimes passed inside the trunks of trees suitably drilled .... I would have preferred more eco-sustainable solutions but many '... .. attention to today the combined via ferrata (optional) on the opposite side (via ferrata of the alpini) is closed due to reclamation and wall consolidation, exactly the one above the hermitage. Do not cover it or in any case before entering open the trip, ask the CAI of Castelnovo Ne Monti.
Lorenzo Zoffoli
14/06/2019 at 22:23Very short and easy via ferrata. Suitable as a first via ferrata for anyone. Very convenient to do in a short time without spending a whole day. Stirrup all the way and well laid cable.
marcomelioli
28/05/2019 at 02:30Ferrata for beginners, short, simple, bracketed in the most difficult stretches and climbable in its entirety. Beautiful the initial slab to do all in adherence. Accessible both uphill and downhill, I recommend combining it with the Alpini ferrata, on the other side of the Stone.
VANNI CASARI
30/03/2019 at 21:38My first …
Simple via ferrata and excellent gym to get ready for the most demanding ferrata of the Alpini or more generally on the via ferrata.
jaks81
23/02/2019 at 22:15First ferrata after 10 years (10 years ago I had only done 2). Faced with some haste because the days are still short. I was afraid that the sun would go down and, not knowing the environment, I was determined and focused on reaching the goal.
The first section is practically a path, zero difficulty.
The second part is a "small gym" of verticality.
Back the following week and lived with another spirit, I concentrated more on the way of climbing (using much less cable) and on the landscapes practically ignored the previous time.
Physical commitment between the first and the second time practically halved.
Very short and simple via ferrata. As a neophyte I didn't have any problems.
Filippo Rosi
17/02/2019 at 08:32The West Ferrata is a simple and short via ferrata. I liked it because in the same trip I combined the nearby ferrata of the Alpini and this one.
Alessandro Iotti
19/08/2018 at 15:47I walked this recent ferrata once uphill and several times downhill after having traveled the Ferrata degli Alpini on the opposite side. The via ferrata is elementary although vertical. Ideal for starting to become familiar with verticality. Easy to go downhill and therefore easily combinable with each other along the way back. To identify the start, go to the west side of the stone until you reach the path that descends. Note a tree to which the last section of wire rope is connected.