Review of the short and athletics Ferrata alla Parete dei Falchi (literally "Ferrata to the Wall of the Hawks"). A short and overall varied itinerary that requires good training and strength of arms. Attention to the rather exposed return and on unstable ground.
Allora stato attuale - Autunno 2020 - ci sono due problematiche presenti:
The starting point of the itinerary is the Power Plant located between the town of Soverzene and Pian di Vedoia in the province of Belluno. From Pian di Vedoia we will have to cross the bridge over the Piave and, as soon as we cross the bridge, look for parking near the plant. Directions for Google Maps available here.
As soon as you cross the bridge over the Piave the road curves to the left. Near that bend there is the possibility of going straight on and immediately after a dirt road with no traffic signs off to the right in the direction of the Piave. We take the small road that heads south. We continue alongside the climbing walls and the Piave until you reach a metal walkway beyond which we will notice one distinct rocky rib where a few meters from the ground you can see the attachment of metal equipment (15 'from the parking lot)
Attention: in 2017 there was a landslide along the approach path and the approach is now more problematic although the landslide can be bypassed. We await updates on the situation in 2018 of the approach path.
The Ferrata alla Parete dei Falchi is a short, intense, athletic and difficult via ferrata. The start is the first test of the itinerary. The cable starts 4 meters from the ground and you will have to climb a section of grade III free to reach the point in which to put yourself in safety. Once you reach the cable, climb vertically on a wall about twenty meters where, at the expense of change present, we encounter the first difficulties for the slope of the route. Gained the term of the changes the way continues vertical and aerial up rather poor rock of holds and therefore difficult to climb. In addition, the vegetation that sometimes covers the rock further complicates the estate.
We go around an edge and face now a stretch on grass with the cable that helps us on slippery ground. We climb and approach a rocky roof on a stretch without protection but without difficulty. We go around the rocky roof to the left on a diagonal traverse and then bend to the right on some leaps of mixed grass and rock. We reach a small balcony useful for taking a breath before the probably more difficult passage of the route. Let's go up one rocky spur with a traverse ascending to the right, sometimes overhanging where good strength and agility will be needed to proceed. Some metal pegs help us to find holds for feet in an otherwise very smooth wall it's difficult. Thelast stretch is on slab and is definitely athletic and needs good strength to be overcome. At the end of this demanding stretch of about fifteen meters the ferrata ends (30 'from the start - 45' from the parking lot).
Follow the recent orange signs that descend steeply towards the power plant. The path is very steep and the foliage makes some stretches slippery. Towards the end of the descent we must walk along an exposed and narrow ledge with friable soil in addition to a rather slippery sloping rock. The passage is aided with a lanyard (battered). It is possible and advised to follow the arrow before this passage, which bypasses the exposed section on the left. After this stretch we arrive along the approach path and then to the car (30 'from the summit - 1h 15' total).
The equipment is in fair condition, however the general safety of the route is questionable. In some points the distance between the nails is of many meters provoking, in case of fall, a factor of high fall with potentially serious consequences for who climbs. Maximum caution therefore.
In general, the via ferrata is short and athletic, although not technically prohibitive. It is climbed in many places making ample use of the arms and therefore can be considered, given the brevity, an excellent training for challenging but long ferratas.
The Ferrata alla Parete dei Falchi can be considered an excellent way to go along the way back or approaching other routes in the area. In fact, the short approach and return make it easy to combine with a longer day trip. Going up along the valley we meet in succession the Ferrata at the Val Gallina Rock Gym, the Via Ferrata of Memory at Vajont, the Ferrata alla Sora el Sass. Going up towards the Cadore you are spoiled for choice where we point out some itineraries including the Costacurta Aided path, the Ferrata at the Antelao, the Aided path Da Prà. Moving on the Pordenone side of the Friulian Prealps we meet theAlta Via dei Rondoi.