Via Ferrata Picasass

Introduction:

The Ferrata del Picasass is a recent ferrata, excellently aided on excellent rock (granite). The via ferrata is exposed during the ascent with a challenging passage - an overhanging horizontal traverse to get around an edge airy - and in the final stretch it allows you to pass over a long and very exciting bridge of monkeys.

Starting location:

The starting point is Baveno in the province of Verbania. Once in the village, follow La Tranquilla Campsite. Behind the campsite is via alle Cave, from where the trip will start. Look for a parking lot in via alle Cave or via Sesena.

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

From the parking lot with the car you will look for it along via alle Cave you will notice a paved road uphill. There are some white-red signs and a sign indicating the Ferrata. Go up the road, initially paved, then unpaved. Cross the highway and continue on the road until you reach a crossroad, where you will take the right following the sign for the Ferrata dei Picasass. Continue uphill until you reach start of the ferrata (45 'from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata:

The ferrata begins begins with a beautiful vertical wall in which you continue thanks to the brackets and the excellent rock (granite) where it is possible to proceed well in adherence. Once the first wall is finished turn left for easy traverse then climb vertically on wall full of holds. Make a traverse to the left and climb a new vertical wall with many brackets. Gone up wall, you proceed on a ledge to the right then another a vertical wall. We then reach the key passage of the via ferrata. An exposed overhanging traverse that goes around an edge. The transition is not extremely difficult, but it requires good strength in the arms and the exposure, while tackling the traverse, is present. The transition is short - 3 carabiner changes- however exciting. Taking advantage of a rock at the bottom you can avoid pulling too much on the cable while going around the edge. Completed the passage we go up a boulder and face a vertical wall with a short overhanging stretch, not particularly difficult. Once past this small roof we face a long wall with brackets that goes up an aerial wall but not difficult. Then cross to the right to go up another wall. Now the slope decreases and the successive walls are more supported allowing to climb the last rocks in adherence the last rocks prior to descent towards the suspended bridge. The long bridge with 3 wires is very exciting and if one prefers not to do so it is circumventable by path. At the end of the bridge, go up a leaned wall, easy to climb and you reach to summit cross ending the via ferrata with great view on the Lake Maggiore (1h 30' from the start - 2h 15' total).

Descent:

From the end of the via ferrata, follow the well-marked path M3 that brings us back to the crossroads left on the approach. From there backwards for the approach path to the car (45' from the end of the via ferrata - 3h total).

Notes:

The Ferrata is recent and pleasant. Vertical, exposed, never too difficult and with an excellent rock. The key passage is a beautiful overhanging traverse that - albeit short - puts the hiker to the test. The bridge is long and adrenaline but overall stable.

Opportunities:

La Ferrata dei Picasass è un bell'itinerario attorno al Lago Maggiore. La componente paesaggistica è molto interessante e sicuramente val la pena farla nelle mezze stagioni - vista la bassa altezza. Per gli appassionati che vogliono provare una ferrata estremamente difficile, la Ferrata Miccia parte pochi metri oltre la Ferrata Picasass. La via si sviluppa di fatt osulla stessa parete ma con difficoltà nettamente superiori.

If you wanted to set up another ferrata on the same day, you should aim for the Varallo ferratas - la Via Ferrata Falconera and the Via Ferrata Partusac - or by lengthening a little you could point to Ferrata of Gabi Simplon shortly after the Simplon Pass in Swiss territory. If you have the time to devote an additional day to the area of high Piedmont you could point to Ferrata del Lago or at Via Ferrata of Macugnaga Guides.