Ferrata Picasass

Introduction:

The Ferrata del Picasass is a recent ferrata, excellently aided on excellent rock (granite). The via ferrata is exposed during the ascent with a challenging passage - an overhanging horizontal traverse to get around an edge airy - and in the final stretch it allows you to pass over a long and very exciting bridge of monkeys.

Starting location:

The starting point is Baveno in the province of Verbania. Once in the village, follow La Tranquilla Campsite. Behind the campsite is via alle Cave, from where the trip will start. Look for a parking lot in via alle Cave or via Sesena.

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

From the parking lot with the car you will look for it along via alle Cave you will notice a paved road uphill. There are some white-red signs and a sign indicating the Ferrata. Go up the road, initially paved, then unpaved. Cross the highway and continue on the road until you reach a saddle, where you will take the right following the sign for the Ferrata dei Picasass. Continue uphill until you reach the start of the via ferrata (45' from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata:

The via ferrata begins with a beautiful vertical wall in which you continue thanks to the brackets and the excellent rock (granite) where it is possible to proceed well in adherence. Once the first wall is finished turn left for an easy traverse and climb up vertical on a wall full of holds. Make a traverse to the left and attach a new vertical wall with abundant brackets. Then a ledge to the right and another vertical wall. We then reach the key passage of the via ferrata. An overhanging traverse overhang that goes around an edge. The transition is not extremely difficult, but it requires good strength in the arms and the exposure when around the edge is present. The transition is short - 3 carabiner changes- and adrenaline. Taking advantage of a rock at the bottom you can avoid pulling too much on the cable while going around the edge. Completed the passage we go up a boulder and face a vertical wall with a short overhanging stretch, not particularly difficult. Once past this small roof we face a long wall with brackets that goes up an aerial wall but not difficult. Then cross to the right to go up another wall. Now the slope decreases and the successive walls are more supported allowing to climb the last rocks in adherence before the suspension bridge. The long bridge of the 3-string monkeys is very exciting and if one prefers not to do so it is circumventable by path. At the end of the bridge, go up a wall that is lying down, easily climbing and you reach the summit cross, ending the via ferrata (1h 30' from the start - 2h 15' total).

Descent:

From the end of the via ferrata, follow the well-marked path M3 that brings us back to the crossroads left on the approach. From there backwards for the approach path to the car (45' from the end of the via ferrata - 3h total).

Notes:

The Ferrata is recent and pleasant. Vertical, exposed, never too difficult and with an excellent rock. The key passage is a beautiful overhanging traverse that - albeit short - puts the hiker to the test. The bridge is long and adrenaline but overall stable.

Opportunities:

The Ferrata dei Picasass is a beautiful itinerary around Lake Maggiore. The landscape component is very interesting and certainly worth doing in the mid-seasons - given the low height.

If you wanted to set up another ferrata on the same day, you should aim for the Varallo ferratas - la Ferrata Falconera and the Ferrata del Partusac - or by lengthening a little you could point to Ferrata of Gabi Simplon shortly after the Simplon Pass in Swiss territory. If you have the time to devote an additional day to the area of high Piedmont you could point to Ferrata del Lago or at Ferrata of the Macugnaga Guides.