Via Ferrata Piero Rossi (Marmol)

Introduction:

Review of Ferrata Piero Rossi to the Forcella Marmol in the Schiara Group. The via ferrata is on average difficult from a technical point of view and extends in a very interesting and challenging environment. Many combinations are possible with the other aided itineraries in the Schiara Group.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is the village of Case Bortot in the province of Belluno. From Belluno we follow the regional road of Col di Lana and shortly after at a roundabout we follow on the right for Bolzano Bellunese and for the Parco delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. We keep the road past Bolzano Bellunesi, then Gioz and still on the same road we now meet the signs for the Case Bortot Hut. We continue on the road until we reach the town of Case Bortot where we pass the hut and after a few meters we meet an open space where it is possible to park with the road that ends. Directions for Google Maps available here.

The Ferrata Piero Rossi is often referred to with the previous name of Ferrata Marmol. In this report we will use the two terms without distinction, although officially the correct name is now Ferrata Piero Rossi.

Approach:

The first goal of our approach from Case Bortot (695 m) is to reach Hut VII Alpini at the foot of the Schiara. Left the car in the parking, we cover the path with signpost 501 that will lead us to the shelter. The beginning is very pleasant on a wide path in the woods and clearly visible the Schiara and the Gusela del Vescovà on the left. We proceed along the path that descends to Ponte del Mariano (30 'from the parking lot) beyond which we meet a signposted junction: on the right rises the CAI 507 which reaches, among others, the Pelf peak. We remain on CAI 501 in the direction of the Hut. Now climb decisively into the woods and quickly gain altitude along the torrent Ardo. The climb takes place in large part in the sun and it is tiring although not difficult. We reach one series of hairpin bends where the valley opens. We go up this stretch and we are in the clearing where the VII Alpini Hut is located (1502 - 2h 45 'from the parking lot). The Rifugio VII Alpini is a crossroads of trails in the Schiara Group.

To reach the start of the Ferrata Piero Rossi we will have to follow the directions behind the hut ei CAI 503 trail sign that lead to the start of the Ferrata Zacchi. In fact, the Ferrata Piero Rossi shares with Zacchi the first hundred meters of an aided itinerary and then climbs up the south-eastern slope of the Schiara while Zacchia rises on the south-western side. We complete theapproach climbing decisively towards the suggestive south walls of the Schiara. Let's move on to the characteristic Porton and we are atstart of the Ferrata Zacchi (45 'from the hut - 3h 30' total).

Via Ferrata:

The first section of the Ferrata Marmol is in common with the Ferrata Zacchi. The start is immediately challenging and makes clear the kind of path ahead. We climb a couple of vertical meters and then undertake a traverse to the right. The rock is good and stepped and there are holds to reduce the effort in this first step. The rope goes around a flat section to enter inside one gully where we meet some ladders from ascend without difficulty. We leave this gorge going along a ledge to the left and a stretch of decidedly aerial horizontal traverse for finding us under a series of ladders in good exposure. We continue in the path entering into a groove to be traced alternating climbing sections with some brackets. The landscape becomes more and more impressive surrounded by the vertical walls of the Schiara and the Dolomiti Bellunesi. Equipment is now interrupted e we follow a stretch of connection on the path that leads us to crossroads between the Ferrata Piero Rossi and the Zacchi.

We hold the right and begin the real Ferrata Piero Rossi at the Forcella del Marmol. We travel a unprotected section of ledge which takes us to the southeastern slope of the Schiara bringing us a first gorge. The ledge now becomes aided to take us to a descent stretch of about 8 meters. We go down the stretch and walk along a ledge that around a gorge (often snow-covered early in the season) and ne exits on the opposite side where we start to climb up some leaps pleasantly climbable. Turning around we can see the ledge just traveled and the line of ascent of the Ferrata Zacchi on the opposite side. This section of the route extends under the looming walls of the Schiara alternating strokes of ledges with rocks and path. We enter into another "cove" that we go around with a ledge and, once exited, we begin again a stretch of climb on rocks. We meet a pair of ladders from go back and we continue in the ascension towards Forcella Marmol.

We now climb on a stretch of ferrata rather vertical up to a momentary interruption of the equipment with a connecting path. This restful stretch is the prelude to the more vertical section of the route. Let's start now at to go up a trait made by slabs and partition walls where for difficulty stands out a chimney with the cable that salt zigzagando on both sides e it must be climbed in split. We continue in ascent following the signs red and white which lead us more to the right on horizontal lines before and uphill diagonals then. Let's go up another vertical stretch on good rock and the equipment stops again near a path which leads us to the Bocco Shelter Zago (2266 m - 2h 30 'from the start).

From the shelter we continue and soon we meet a vertical wall to climb followed by a new one stretch of path to the left. We face a new uphill stretch and the look now opens on the northern side and, in good weather, the view opens up onto the Dolomite groups of Cadore. In short we meet the saddle where on the left we climb to the Schiara for the east ridge. We continue up to get off the last aided stretch towards Forcella Marmol (2262 m - 3h from the start) where our itinerary ends.

Descent:

From the Forcella del Marmol we have some options to return to Case Bortot:

• go up to Pelf (1h 30 'from Forcella Marmol) with the exposure Aided path Guardiano (read report here), descend with thedemanding normal route and return to Case Bortot (11h 30 'total), or
• go up for the east ridge to the Schiara (1h 30 '), get off at Gusela del Vescovà (1h) with the difficult one Ferrata Berti (read report here) and then return to Rifugio VII Alpini (3h 30 ') with the Via Ferrata Sperti (read report here) and then return to Case Bortot (2 from Hut VII Alpini - 8h from the end of the Ferrata Marmol - 14h 30 'total).
• back to the same route (4h 30 'from Forcella Marmol - 11h total).

The timing of the report is based on the latter option, the quickest.

Notes:

The Ferrata Piero Rossi is very often included in a demanding itinerary that combines three ferrata to the Schiara: you reach the Gusela del Vescovà with the Ferrata Zacchi or with the Ferrata Sperti, climb to the Schiara with the Ferrata Berti and return to the Rifugio VII Alpini with the Ferrata Piero Rossi which is the easiest downhill for a circular route that includes the climb to the Schiara. However, we have preferred to describe this review as a separate itinerary ascending to the Forcella Marmol. Given the times of the itinerary it is strongly advised to combine the via ferrata with a two or more days itinerary on the Schiara by staying in the Hut or in one of the various shelters at high altitude that we meet along the routes in this group. The Ferrol del Marmol is of medium difficulty although it is necessary to pay attention to the snow conditions in some of the gorges that could make the route more complex.

Storia:

La Ferrata che scende dalla Forcella Marmol è dedicata all'alpinista e scrittore Piero Rossi. Nato nel 1930 fu un grandissimo conoscitore di Dolomiti Bellunesi e si battè fortemente nella sua vita per istituire il Parco Nazionale delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. Fu l'autore del volume dedicato allo Schiara della collana Guida dei Monti d'Italia.

La ferrata fu inaugurata nel 1967 di fatto ridisegnando la discesa da forcella Marmol evitando la vecchia discesa per la Gola del Canalone, soggetta a frequenti scariche di sassi.

Opportunities:

The Ferrata Piero Rossi is inserted in a Dolomite Group very rich in aided itineraries that can be easily matched. If you want to stay in the Belluno area, you can head east and take the interesting route Via Ferrata Costacurta at Teverone or go up a little to the north and meet 3 climbing routes with short approach and return: the Via Ferrata of Memory at Vajont, the Ferrata to the Rock Gym VII Alpine Regiment and the Ferrata to the Falchi Wall. Going further towards the Civetta Group we find other interesting via ferratas: the easy one Via Ferrata Sora el Sass and the long ferratas at the Civetta - la Tissi, the Costantini and theAlleghesi.