Via Ferrata della Pietra Nera

Introduction:

The Ferrata di Pietra Nera goes up a unique mountain of ophiolitic rock in the Parma hills not far from Salsomaggiore Terme. The via ferrata is characterized by 3 distinct sections and each with peculiarities that characterize it.

Starting location:

The itinerary starts near the hamlet of Grotta, which can be reached in about 40 minutes from the Salsomaggiore Terme - Fidenza sull'A1 motorway exit. Reached Salsomaggiore Terme continue on the SP 359 in the direction of Bardi and take a saddle to the right that leads to the hamlet of Grotta. Cross the township and just before the detour to Case di Pietra Nera park the car in the pitches on the roadside. On the opposite side of the pitches you can see the signs of an un-numbered CAI path with a bar. There are no signs for the via ferrata.

Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

Park the car and take a path in the woods highlighted by white red signs. The ferrata can be reached after bypassing some rocky prominence (10 ').

Via Ferrata:

The via ferrata consists of 3 sections:

1. The first part initially climbs to a non-trivial dihedral and then continues on a slab with limited difficulties. Continue on a smooth horizontal traverse in which it is necessary to continue in adherence and pass an edge. Going around the corner you face the most difficult section of the first section, that is a traverse in which the chain is low and it is necessary to move easily and get out of it quickly. After this stretch the first part ended (15 'from the start - 25' from the parking lot).
2. The second section is completely different from the first. First of all, it is not a via ferrata but a path in which a series of rocky leaps climb free. The difficulties are increasing and, although never exaggerated, they must be approached with prudence and ability. Immediately we face some rocks (1st degree), then we pass a spur (II) and finally we climb a dihedral (III). In all these sections there are bolts for insurance (10 '- 35' from the parking lot).
3. The third section summarizes the characteristics of a via ferrata. You go around an edge to then climb an easy diagonal ramp. At this point we can climb a rock blade by choosing the path to the left (easy) or to the right (difficult). The easy path climbs up the blade with the help of some metal brackets and in a few minutes leads us without any particular difficulty to the summit. The difficult path faces the rock blade without the aid of artificial supports and requires good climbing technique from the moment the chain tends to pull you out. Go up the blade and go around an edge and rejoin the easy path to finish the short ferrata (5 '- 40' from the parking lot).

Descent:

Once at Monte Pietra Nera (677 m), you can descend in two directions:

1. to the right along the small ridge that leads us on the provincial road and from there again to the right descending towards the car (15 '- 1h from the parking lot);
2. on the left following the CAI path towards the saddle between Monte Pietra Nera and Monte Canate, then taking a mule track to the right reaching the car (15 ').

Notes:

This singular ferrata despite not having high difficulties and being particularly short it should not be underestimated. There are 3 technical steps in which if you want to progress without the help of the chain you need good climbing technique. In addition, there are a couple of unaided passages where free climbing is required.

Opportunities:

This short ferrata has the characteristic of being at low altitude (677 m) and practically practicable all year round.

The ferrata is located relatively close (40 ') at the exit of Salsomaggiore Terme - Fidenza on the A1 so it could be considered a stop and not the destination of a trip. The nearest aided routes are via ferrata Mazzocchi and Adolfo Ferrari on the border between Piacenza and Genoa, the Via Ferrata Deanna Orlandini and the ferratas in the Reggio Apennines (Ferrata alla Pietra di Bismantova, Via Ferrata del Monte Penna and Barranco del Dolo).