Introduction:
The Ferrata al Pizzo del Becco is a short ferrata that does not present significant technical difficulties. However, it is part of a long and quite challenging itinerary that before and after the aided part has some exposed rocks to be done free where you will need a firm foot.
Starting location:
The starting point of the itinerary is the Laghi Gemelli Hut. This hut can only be reached on foot from both Val Brembana and Val Seriana. The shortest route is from the Mezzeno huts near Roncobello in Val Brembana, Bergamo. Once in Roncobello we continue along the first paved road then unpaved to where it ends at the huts. We park and we are ready to set off.
Directions for Google Maps available here.
Approach:
From the Baite di Mezzeno the Sentiero 215 takes you uphill which almost immediately enters a wood. Once out of the woods proceed on the highland pastures to a saddle in which we will keep the right towards the Rifugio Laghi Gemelli. The trail is now steep until it reaches the Passo di Mezzeno (2140 m) beyond which the path becomes flatter. We continue for half an hour along the path until we reach the ('Rifugio') Hut (2h from the parking lot).
Once at the hut we will pass the dam on the lake taking us to the other side of the lake. We continue on a dirt road up to Lago Colombo and again we cross it on a dam. We continue on the path until we meet a red sign that tells us to keep the left. We approach the walls of the Pizzo del Becco first following the obvious trail then the red and white signs both on the path and on rocks until we reach the chain with which the ferrata begins (1h 15 'from the hut - 3h 15' total).
Via Ferrata:
The ferrata crosses a difference in level of less than 100 m and in fact has only two vertical points.
The beginning is in the inside of a dihedral quite climbable to then overcome a prominence and then bend to the left on some rocks. Go up the rocks we are on a terrace where you can turn around and enjoy a beautiful view of Lake Colombo. We climb a second vertical wall with excellent grips for the hands and feet up to a final crack with which we exit the wall. Now the chain bends to the right. At this point the difficulties are over and we go up this fairly leaned wall with the cable that helps us to balance without difficulty until we reach the end of the equipment and then the short via ferrata (20 'from the start - about 3h 40' total) .
At this point we continue on the uphill track on easy but exposed rocks to the Forcella del Valico where we could go down the normal route on the right. Continuing we have to go along the ridge that requires going up some boulders and covering a last aided stretch before reaching the summit cross (20 'from the end of the via ferrata - 4h total).
Descent:
From the Cross you have to go down to the Forcella del Valico where we can estimate to go down the via ferrata traveled to the first leg (be careful to move stones for those who go up or down below us - 40 'from the summit) or if you follow the signs that continue in the direction of the Passo di Sardegnana up to reach in both cases the Colombo Lake (1h 15 'from the summit).
At this point we go back along the approach path to the parking lot (1h 30 'from Lago Colombo - about 6h 15' total).
Notes:
The area in which the route extends is marvellous. It is a very beautiful stretch of the Orobie and, although at a distance not exaggerated by support points, it gives the impression of being wild and isolated. The presence of many high mountain animals sharpens this feeling.
The chain is not particularly tense but the via ferrata is not of such difficulty that it often requires its use. Attention in case of recent rains on the rocks on the rocks before and after the via ferrata.
Opportunities:
The Ferrata at the Pizzo del Becco is part of a long and demanding itinerary that will leave very little energy to travel another itinerary the same day. However, the Parco delle Orobie and more generally the province of Bergamo offer other very interesting aided itineraries so it could be worthwhile to set up this via ferrata with the example of the Via Ferrata Rossi at Pizzo Strinato, the Ferrata to the Passo della Porta, the Via Ferrata Maurizio, the Ferrata to the Monte Ocone or the Ferrata to the Madonnina del Coren.
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Alessandro Gnutti
23/08/2020 at 10:16Giro bello lungo partendo dalle baite di Mezzeno. Direi 4 ore per arrivare alla croce in cima più 3 ore a scendere. Poi impossibile non fermarsi ad ammirare da vicinissimo gli stambecchi che a loro volta ti osservano mentre sali, e questo allunga ovviamente il giro 🙂
Giro appunto splendido per panorami e fauna. Ferrata breve e carina, noi l’abbiamo fatta imbragati, ma la maggior parte la fa senza. Il fatto di farla in discesa non aumenta la difficoltà. Occhio solamente ai sassi che possono cadere da quelli che ci sono sopra. Piccola nota: per arrivare alle baite di Mezzeno gli ultimi 5 km passano da una strada a pagamento (2€ per la giornata).
Filippo Rosi
16/04/2019 at 11:02Beautiful trip to Pizzo del Becco. I went to the Rifugio Laghi Gemelli to sleep and the next day we went up to Pizzo del Becco. Short and useful via ferrata to go up a not difficult gully. Very beautiful panorama and many animals met on the way.