Via Ferrata Grasselli at Picco Carnizza

Introduction:

Review of the challenging itinerary ascending to the Picco di Carnizza and Monte Canin with the Ferrelli Grasselli and the Ferrata Julia downhill. A very varied itinerary, with a mountaineering character both in the section of the ridge that connects the two mountains and along the descent from the Canin Glacier. To be avoided with unstable weather due to lack of escape routes at high altitude.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is the top station of the cable car that from Sella Nevea (Udine) goes up to Rifugio Gilberti Soravito. To reach the valley station of the cable car you must reach Sella Nevea. To reach Sella Nevea you must reach the town of Chiusaforte, located 20 minutes from the Carnia Tolmezzo exit in the A23. Once in Chiusaforte follow the signs for Sella Nevea towards the east. We pass the bridge and drive 20 km to the village. At a hairpin bend we meet the sign of welcome to Sella Nevea. A few tens of meters further on the right there is a road that leads us to the ski lifts. Directions for Google Maps available here.

Approach:

Leaving the hut behind us (1850 m), take the path 632 to the right ascending towards Sella Bila Pec where there are the ruins of an old military barracks. Now we follow the path 632 which continues on the hillside in the direction of the Sella Grubia and the Marussich Shelter. The approach path extends in an interesting area mainly made up of screes that we go up in a westerly direction (visible at our back Montasio). Once we reach the Sella Grubia, we will see on our left the shelter placed at the base of the western slopes of the Carnizza Peak. We reach the Marussich shelter (2040 m - 1h 30 'from the top station of the cable car) where it is clearly visible our itinerary that will take us to reach the Peak of Carnizza first and then Monte Canin.

Via Ferrata:

We leave behind us the shelter going up on track for meadows and rocks in the direction of theobvious edge where the metal slab shows us that the Grasselli Ferrata starts (20 'from the shelter). Walking on the north side of the Carnizza Peak attention to the snow conditions at the beginning of the season which can vary depending on winter rainfall.

We move a couple of meters on the right side compared to the slab and following the red triangles we go up one first well walled vertical wall but quite challenging. Some pegs help us in more difficult passages but the passages remain however of a certain engagement despite the rock is well jagged. We climb vertically and quickly gain some exposure by meeting a vertical wall along a crack. We remain on the right of the crack going up some metal brackets.

We end the passage and we find ourselves in a short tract of connection where for a short track of path exposed to the left we carry in a aided ridge section. We begin to climb some ridge rocks exposed, however, without substantial difficulties. Let's climb some gullies and we are now out of the first shod tract. We cover a path that steeply and between scree leads us on the wide ridge that soon leads to the Peak of Carnizza (2441 m - 1h from the start - about 3h total).

Now begins the second part of the climb that leads us to the Canin. Straight to us the edge that goes down to the west of the Canin is obvious, but at first sight arouses a certain fear. After having initially lost odds, we will have to take a first stretch of the ridge where we alternate stretches of trail with passages in inclined slab be careful in case of wet ground. The precipice on the north side of the ridge is remarkable descends to the Canin Glacier.

We follow the red signs and we reach a first series of aided passages with which we bypass a grassy ledge to go up some aided jumps along a gully. We are now near the rocky edge. The mark of the path is excellent and plentiful (red triangle of the Alta Via Resiniana). Let's start with some sections aided on slab until we move to the ridge. We are now long the ridge of the west edge of the Canin with behind us the Peak of Carnizza well in sight. We alternate some sections on trail with steps up slab and some sections on rocks or climbing. We climb up to reach the remains of the wooden cross of the Canin and turning it is remarkable the stretch just traveled from the Peak of Carnizza (2587m - 2h 30 'from the start - about 4h 30' total).

Descent:

From the summit of the Canin we follow the path which goes down the normal route on the east side. In about 10-15 minutes we reach the left saddle for the Ferrata Julia. The Julia via ferrata is of medium difficulty and, if traveled downhill, requires some attention but the rock is well attached along the entire route except for the last slab before ending the descent. This last slab will stress the arms more, but it is only a few meters. Review of the Ferrata Julia available here. Visible along the descent the Peak of Carnizza passed a few hours earlier. We end the ferrata reaching the Canin Glacier (1h 30 'from the Canin summit - 6h total).

The descent of the glacier requires a lot of attention and the crampons are definitely recommended although generally there are no large crevasses. We go down the glacier and, once we find the track, we continue south towards the Sella Bila Pec and then to the top station of the cable car (1h 15 'from the end of the Ferrata Julia - about 7h 30' total).

Notes:

The trip that goes up the Ferrelli Grasselli to the Picco Carnizza and subsequently to the Monte Canin is a very beautiful and rewarding itinerary as often happens in the Julian Alps which are a real gem for mountain lovers. However, it remains a challenging route and in many places exposed and rather difficult. Both the Ferrata Grassselli and the Julia traveled downhill require good experience, fair technique and no problems with exposure. The ridge between the Picco di Carnizza and the Canin will offer us a couple of hours of excitement and adrenaline with very beautiful and exposed passages. The ascent is varied and, although it does not present excessively difficult passages, it requires maximum concentration throughout the climb. To avoid with unstable weather given the lack of escape routes between the peak of Carnizza, the Canin and the descent from the Julia.

Opportunities:

As shown on the ferrata, we present the Grasselli Ferrata with the Ferrata Julia traveled downhill. In the Julian Alps there are many other well-aided itineraries of the highest interest. On Jof Montasio we suggest the Ferrata Via Amalia, the Aided path Leva, the Aided path Ceria Merlone. From the Val Dogna side you can go up to Monte Cavallo with the long hike that includes the Ferrata Norina. On the nearby Jof Fuart we suggest the panoramic view Aided path King of Saxony and the Ferrata Anita Goitan. Proceeding towards the Mangart we meet the Italian and Slovenian Ferrata with Mangart and the exposureed Via Ferrata Vita.