Via Ferrata Sasso della Croce and Sasso delle Dieci

Introduction:

The Ferrata to Sass dla Crusc and the Ferrata to Cima Dieci are two aided routes generally combined with departure from Badia. The aided sections are to be considered of medium difficulty but the itinerary is long and sometimes exposed without protection and therefore to be carefully evaluated. Wonderful views over the Val Badia, Sassolungo, Sella Group and the various Dolomite groups of Cortina.

Starting location:

The starting point of the itinerary is the Rifugio San Croce on the eastern side of the Val Badia at the height of Badia. The hut can easily be reached by the "Santa Croce" chairlift and then "La Crusc" which connects the center of Badia with the hut. Directions for Google Maps available here.

Obviously it is also possible to climb the easy path 7 which from Badia goes up to the Rifugio Santa Croce in about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Approach:

From the mountain station of the chair lift (2045 m) we see straight to us theimpressive rocky bastion of Sass dla Crusc (Sasso Santa Croce) that stands straight ahead of us and it will be the first destination of our itinerary. We start the walk following the trail sign 7 that will lead us to the side of one little white church. Shortly after the trail climbs to the right in a southerly direction, initially with a moderate slope between the mountain pines, then coming out of the wood, climbing more firmly towards the vertical rock wall. We walk under the wall in a ledge that is slowly shrinking to become exposed. Here begins the first section of the Ferrata to Sass dla Crusc (1h from the chairlift top station).

Via Ferrata:

The first stretch of wire rope helps us in an exposed stretch of a ledge to which a vertical jump follows. We continue alternating traits of exposed hillside trail with short aided sections. We climb a sloping ramp with the cable to our left and we continue in theexposed path that goes around the south-west face of Sass Dla Crusc. Let's go up a stretch of not aided rocks and then an aided stretch where we meet two metal brackets and then a easy traverse with which we gain share. We are now moving along a long narrower ledge than the previous ones in which there is a rope as a self-insurance for the climb. Out of this stretch we turn more towards south and we must climb the last stretch of the path that leads us to the Forcella dla Crusc. This trait is partially aided when it enters a steep and crumbling gully. After this stretch we are at Forcella dla Crusc (2h 30 'total).

The saddle is a interesting crossroads of paths where we will keep the left to stay onslabau that will lead us first at Sass Dla Crusc and then at Cima Dieci. The trail develops on the slabau between rocks and screes that are a bit slippery but not difficult. We first reach the Piz Zuber, then the junction for the Sas dla Crusc (2907 m - optional but recommended) that rises above the Val Badia. Continuing on the very scenic ridge path we set off to reach Cima Dieci where the second stretch of via ferrata is present.

This via ferrata is short but exposed and with a couple of more challenging steps than the previous one. The summit of Cima Dieci rises above the ridge in a rocky jump of about fifty meters in which the ferrata runs along the south edge going up a series of rather exposed and vertical rocky leaps. We walk the first few feet and then start one series of more pronounced jumps with the cable to our left. We reach a first panoramic balcony from which we start vertical in strong exposure for two quite challenging stretches. Climbed this stretch we go around the edge on the eastern side and we see above us fifteen meters away the wooden cross. We walk a few meters horizontally to face a chimney that we go up again in split taking us from his right side to the left side. We climb the last rocks and we are on summit slabau where just below is the cross of Cima Dieci with stunning 360 degree view (2h from Forcella dla Crusc - 4h 30 'total) ridge that separates Cima Dieci from Cima Nove reachable by the Ferrata di Cima Nove.

Descent:

The descent takes place along the path traveled on the outward journey. Obviously the two iron sections require more attention being downhill (3h from the summit of Cima Dieci - 7h 30 'total).

Notes:

The proposed itinerary is the combination of two via ferrata. The first is the Ferrata that allows us to reach the Forcella dla Crusc and is classified as easy. There are 3 rather vertical but short sections without technical difficulties. The other aided sections are mainly for safety on exposed sections of the path. The brief but intense via ferrata in Cima Dieci is very exposed and requires no vertigo. The first half is quite vertical and challenging.

The itinerary is of high mountain and long with a good gap and therefore to be walked in good shape. Some stretches of the path before the saddle are exposed and unprotected, therefore not recommended for people without mountain experience or in any case without a standing foot.

Weather stability is important as it is a long route without effective support points and with sections aided both at the end of the route and in the first section and therefore not recommended to be covered in the event of unstable weather.

Storia:

Il Sasso dla Crusc è una montagna che lega a doppia mandata la storia di Reynhold Messner con la storia dell'alpinismo mondiale. Nel Luglio 1968 Messner era in rampa di lancio assieme a suo fratello Gunther, fidato compagno di cordata. Decisero di salire il Pilastro di Mezzo del Sasso della Croce quando lungo la salita Messner si trovò davanti a una placca di 4 metri completamente liscia e rimase bloccato. Scendere era di fatto impossibile, salire appariva impossibile. Come descritto nel suo iconico libro "Settimo Grado", fece affidamento sulla sua concentrazione e determinazione per vincere quella parete. La via divenne, come di frequente avviene nell'alpinismo, oggetto di controversie e Messner diede la valutazione di VIII grado mai usata fino ad allora. La via non venne ripetuta fino al 1978 da Mariacher che, tuttavia, nel tratto chiave disegno involontariamente una variante con difficoltà inferiori (VII). Per chi volesse vedere la sequenza di quei passaggi, questo video mostra la salita di Nicola Tondini nel 2010. Val la pena ricordare che allora Messner la salì con scarponi a suola rigida (!).

Opportunities:

The Ferrata at Sass dla Crusc and at Cima Dieci is a long itinerary that will hardly leave energy for a second itinerary aided the same day. However in several days it is possible to combine with the departure from the Forcella dla Crusc the ascent to the Piz de Lavarella from which then descending in the direction of the Piz dles Conturines you can travel the Aided Path Tru Dolomieu very interesting and pleasant. Going down in Val Badia you could consider going along the Via Ferrata of Peace or from Corvara go up to Sella Group to travel the Ferrata at the Piz de Lech or the Via Ferrata of Vallon. Going up towards the Gardena Pass we meet the Ferrata to the Gran and Piccolo Cir.