Review of the Ferrata Senza confini (literally "Without Borders Ferrata") to Cellon. The via ferrata is very demanding, vertical, exposed and physical. To be avoided if not well trained and used to exposure. Medium-length itinerary with strong historical interest and the possibility of traveling through a long aided war gallery.
The starting point of the Ferrata Senza Confini itinerary is the Passo di Monte Croce Carnico on the border between Italy and Austria. To reach the pass, go up in about 40 minutes from Tolmezzo (Udine) to State Road 52b. Tolmezzo is easily reached by the A23 motorway with the Tolmezzo-Carnia exit. Once at the pass, we park in one of the yards. For our itinerary we will start in Austrian territory to return from Italian territory. Directions for Google Maps available here.
To reach the start of the via ferrata it is possible both to follow the path that climbs from the Italian side and from the Austrian side. In this report we propose to go up from the Austrian side and to go along the Cellon war tunnel. From the parking lot (1360 m) we pass the customs and take the CAI path ascending to the Crete di Collinetta on the western side of the pass. Shortly after we meet a first sign that already indicates the Ferrata Senza Confini to the left but we ignore it continuing straight towards the Gallery and the Canal Steinbergerweg. At about 15 minutes from the pass we meet another crossroads: straight ahead towards the Canalberg Steinbergerweg with the homonymous ferrata while we keep the left steeply uphill towards the Schulter Gallery. Let's go up now firmly reaching a first steep but not difficult stretch aided with a safety rope and we arrive at the war settlements therefore at theentrance to the Cellon Gallery (1541 m - ca 30 ').
The start of the via ferrata it is placed about 4 meters from the ground and we will have to climb free to reach it. The passages are supported and with obvious grips. Reached the cable we climb the first meters up supported rocks with a couple of more pronounced leaps but rather easy. We still gain altitude and bend to the right finding ourselves inside a groove at the end of which the cable turns sharply to the right vertically. We are at the base of a long, demanding and a aerial dihedral. The dihedral extends with the cable on the left, climbing on a slab poor in grips natural in which they have been inserted a good number of brackets metal but distant from each other. This arrangement of the brackets will result in some traction on the cable during the climb. We quickly earn ahigh exposure climbing. The upper part is slightly more cluttered but there are fewer brackets and this keeps the difficulty level high.
We finish the dihedral and, after being there pushed to the left on a passage always challenging, we carry on ridge thread. The stretch is aerial and below we see the pass left a few hours earlier. We are now on the ridge of a series of less demanding passages but that soon ends up returning to difficult medium levels again. Let's face some inclined slabs initially on the left side of the ridge then on the right side. The exposure is always kept high and we proceed on the very compact rock that is not rich in handles. We climb an exposed edge and then a couple of steps up difficult diagonal slabs where we will have to have good strength of arms taking advantage of the adherence of the boots. We reach a jutting rock near a boulder first aided only with rope in which we will have to combine a good agility with a certain strength. We continue on some slabs along the ridge and reach a second overhanging piece, this time initially aided with metal steps. We then address a new dihedral that we go up on the left side. We continue meeting a well-set chimney that we also go up on the left side. We continue and reach a piece of supported ridge with some pine trees where it is definitely recommended to rest and enjoy the view for a while.
We continue and reach a crossroads of paths (2103 m - 1h 30 'from the start). To our right we reach the Ferrata Steinbergerweg, on the left the path for the normal route (signpost 147). Straight to us the summit of Cellon and its metal cross. We climb on an obvious track towards the summit of Crete di Collinetta until we reach the east front, where we meet numerous remains of the Great War and we reach shortly the summit of the Crete of Collinetta (2241 m - 20 'from the end of the ferrata - about 3h total) marked by aimpressive metallic cross on a commemorative plate of the violent clashes that took place on this summit during the conflict.
We return to the intersection of paths reached at the end of the via ferrata. We go down to the right on the 147 in the Italian side cutting in horizontal and we can reach the Creta di Collinetta (Crete of the Hill). We continue now in descent along the mule track which rejoins the path left during the approach. We then return back along the approach path to the car park (1h 30 'from the summit - 4h 30' total).
The Ferrata Without Borders is a typical example of a via ferrata that elicits conflicting opinions. The climb is athletic, difficult and definitely puts the driver to the test. However, the climb is not very climbable for long stretches with some single level crossings at least 6A which lead to a strong traction on the cable. The road climbs close to a historic climbing route opened by Friulian mountaineers (Mazzilis and De Infanti). The original route is visible with many nails and pegs along the way. The ferrata runs parallel for long stretches. Without climbing shoes and good technique it is almost impossible to climb in some places. Put these elements on the table, the via ferrata is suitable for hikers trained with strong arms who absolutely do not suffer from vertigo (a couple of steps are very exposed and adrenaline). The environment in which it extends is very beautiful and the ascent is satisfying. The wordings Crete from Collinetta and Cellon are used without distinction.
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Meteo Ferrata Without Borders in the locality of Timau (Udine).