The easy Ferrata Susatti in Cima Capi is a very rewarding itinerary from a landscape point of view. It is an ideal via ferrata for those with mountain experience but has not yet ventured into aided paths. Without presenting significant technical difficulties, good exposure is obtained and you can become familiar with the progression in this environment. Attention to the low altitude and to the prevailing south-east exposure that in the summer months could result in very hot weather for those who walk along it.
The starting point of the itinerary is the village of Biacesa 4 Km from Riva del Garda. Once in Riva del Garda we follow the tunnels that lead us to Val di Ledro. Once out of the second we soon reach the village of Biacesa. We take via dei Dazi on the right and then at the end of the road we turn right. We continue for a short while until we come to a playground with a large parking lot. From there our trip will start.
Directions for Google Maps available here.
Starting from Biacesa, follow the path CAI 470 (Aided path of the Bech) that proceeds along the hillside towards the east along the Gec Valley. We ignore the deviation to the left for the Aided path of Laste (possible as a return itinerary) and we continue among ups and downs surrounded by typical Mediterranean plants of the lake (laurel, olive trees). We go down some easy rocks and we continue along the easy path. At a crossroads we ignore the CAI 405 which descends to Riva del Garda and we continue uphill towards the start of the via ferrata which takes place after having climbed an easy chimney (1h 15 'from the parking lot).
We arrive near the red slab going up some unsupported rocks beyond which the wire rope that helps us to climb some rocky jumps inside a chimney. We go out on the ridge where we climb some difficult passages with increasing exposure. The climb takes place between well-set slabs in which it is possible to proceed in climbing without making a continuous reliance on the cable. We rise a slab with a pair of brackets and reach the ridge edge. In this section we find ourselves continuing on the right side of the ridge in strong exposure without any particular difficulty to proceed. The ferrata proceeds along the ridge going up some boulders and small aided walls. The climb is pleasant, the environment beautiful with the Lake Garda behind us. We reach the only passage of medium difficulty of the itinerary: we go around a large boulder on an exposed traverse going to look for the hold over the edge. After this stretch we proceed in an easy chimney and after a few short vertical sections we are in the path that leads us to the summit of Cima Capi (909 m - 1h 15 'from the start - 2h 30' total).
At the end of the via ferrata it is advisable not to remove the via ferrata set as we will meet new aided sections during the return regardless of which option we choose. From the summit of Cima Capi we descend on the opposite side from the one from which we arrived by following an easy ridge path near the trenches of the great war and a helicopter pad. In 15 minutes we meet a crossroads:
The area in which the Ferrata Susatti extends is an area of great historical interest. There are many traces of the great war that saw the Austrian soldiers in these areas barricaded. Near the via ferrata and the nearby paths we will have the opportunity to visit tunnels and trenches so it is advisable to bring along a frontal torch. Excellent signage on the trails.
As indicated in the report, it is possible to combine the ascent to Cima Capi with the Ferrata Susatti with other well-aided itineraries in the area such as the Foletti Aided path and the Aided path of the Laste, both of which can be traveled downhill. Once you reach the Accioni Shelter (858 m) you could evaluate - energies permitting - also the ascent to Cima Rocca with easy via ferrata.
Although difficult to combine on the same day, this corner of the Giudicarie Pre-Alps also offers us the neighbor Via Ferrata at Cima Sat or going up towards Trento could be evaluated Ferrata to Castel Drena as well as the easy aided paths Colodri and Cavre.
Approach: 1:15 h
Ferrata: 1:15 h
Itinerary: 4:00 h
Via Ferrata gap: 315 m
Route difference: 490 m
Max altitude: 907 m
Length: 8.1 Km