The ferrata named after Lieutenant Ferrante of Ruffano was installed by the Alpini near Pontebba in the province of Udine. The via ferrata is vertical, demanding and athletic in many passages. Ideal as training in the months in which it is not possible to climb the highways.
The starting point of the itinerary is located near the town of Pontebba in the province of Udine. For those arriving from the motorway, from the exit of the toll booth keep left towards the center of Pontebba. Pass a bridge and, under the motorway viaduct, turn right following a paved road that continues under the highway. We continue on this road towards the valley. The road becomes a dirt road but in good condition and continues to a clearing.
Directions for Google Maps available here.
On site continue towards the Falesia Rio degli Uccelli and follow a sign indicating the attack of the nearby Via Ferrata (5 'from the car) on the right orographic side of the stream that we reach after some ropes fixed a few meters above the stream bed .
Next to the metal slab commemorative, vertical part the metal cable. Already from thestart of the Via Ferrata it is clear that the climb will be vertical and athletic. The first meters are vertical on fairly smooth rock that crosses to the right, directing us towards a small terrace from which one starts short ledge to the right. In short it stops and you have to face a demanding horizontal traverse where the scarcity of supports for the feet will be the main difficulty. The traverse is about 6-8 meters and requires to go down a couple of meters after which the cable starts up again vertically and a couple of cambras allow you to climb with less effort than the transverse host. We climb these vertical meters assisted by some brackets and we are in a short stretch of supported connection. Be careful not to shake stones that would inevitably fall on those who are climbing the first stretch just traveled.
We walk along a short ledge to the left and continue on the ferrata which leads to a obvious dihedral. We initially climb to the right of the back and then cross it and position ourselves to the left where we climb vertically but without substantial difficulties helped also by many changes. We reach an overhanging step in which it will be worthwhile to face it with determination and to climb it quickly, above all for the change of carabiner that will take place in a decisive overhang. Once we have climbed the overhanging pass we are in a strong position on a vertical wall assisted by a large number of changing bags that can be used to rest.
Once the vertical wall is finished, we move on good rock that is well attached to the left to face a beautiful vertical wall. The cable continues to our left and we go up a nice corner that leads us to one series of easy steps supported. After these easy meters, the road starts up again vertically, challenging for a few meters until you reach a stretch of equipped path among the pines. The path leads to a pulpit as a detour.
The via ferrata starts again with a traverse to the left slightly downhill (watch out for the mobile stones). After the traverse downhill we face one uphill to the left not difficult but in slight overhang. In fact we reach an edge from which begins a long section of descent equipped on plaque. The plaque is not difficult although it requires a minimum of attention to find the supports for the feet. We then reach the end of the via ferrata (ca 1h 30 'from the attack).
Follow the trail of the path that is used for climbing routes that develop nearby (about 30 'from the end of the route - 2h total).
This recent via ferrata is unique in this area of Italy: it is a low-level, training and vertical via ferrata. It is a physical ferrata that requires strength to climb the most difficult points of the route. It does not reach any peak and develops in a valley next to many free climbing pitches. New fixtures and in excellent condition. Ferrata not to be underestimated with a long downhill stretch.
In order to overcome the hard sections of this via ferrata, we reccomend you to read out article "How to temporarily take a pause in a Via Ferrata".
La ferrata è di costruzione piuttosto recente. Nel 2012, in occasione del 140° dalla fondazione delle Truppe Alpine e del 150° del Club Alpino Italiano, le truppe degli Alpini costruirono questa atletica via ferrata. Il comune di Pontebba contribuì alla costruzione della via ferrata.
La via è intitolata alla memoria del tenente Antonio Ferrante di Ruffiano, ufficiale degli alpini durante la seconda guerra mondiale.
In this of the Friulia we are halfway between the Carnic Alps on the left and the Julian Alps on the right. Numerous are the possible aided routes. We report some of the most beautiful in the area:
For the Carnic Alps we suggest athletic and challenging tree ferratas: the Ferrata to the Clampil Tower, the Ferrata at Coglians and the Via Ferrata Senza Confini otherwise towards Tolmezzo the recent Via Ferrata la Farina del Diavolo a Villa Santina.
For the Julian Alps we suggest the long trip to the Jof Montasio with the Via Ferrata Amalia at Jof Montasio, the climb to the Canin with the Ferrata Julia and the Via Ferrata to the Ponza Grande.
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giovanni zaneto
11/09/2020 at 13:58Impianto in condizioni eccellenti con 6 tratte in salita e 3 in discesa . Ferrata breve , passaggi impegnativi che obbligano a usare spesso le braccia sia in tensione su tratte orrizontali esposte sia in trazione su tratte verticali dove mancano appigli nella roccia. Conveniente farla con le scarpette da arrampicata per poter avanzare di più sulle gambe e limitare l’uso delle braccia , meglio sarebbe usare i guanti mozzi oppure la magnesite perché le mani sudate rischiano di scivolare arrampicando sulla fune . Salita più discesa in circa 50 minuti. La discesa è facile ma non da sottovalutare. Sconsigliabile subito dopo la pioggia , meglio attendere un periodo secco.
ghostpat31
29/06/2020 at 18:04Ferrata molto difficile bisogna essere preparati non e per tutti, né devi avere nelle braccia o meglio lasciar stare. Anche il ritorno non è da sottovalutare. Mi e piaciuta molto la consiglio anche se non è lunga, ma ti tiene sotto per bene. Mi raccomando sempre assicurarsi con 2 moschettoni., per la vostra vita
pandrake
13/06/2020 at 23:29Bella zona, soleggiata, ma ventilata. Si tratta di una ferrata scolastica di non particolare interesse paesaggistico. Il percorso consiste in una salita fino ad un picco rocioso e la conseguente discesa dall’altro lato. Il tratto in salita è, da subito, fisico, strapiombante e scarso di appigli naturali. Consiglio di portare un cordino o un rinvio, nel caso non si sia proprio in forma eccellente e ci si stanchi a metà sgroppata, perchè il primo tratto appoggiato, che consenta un minimo di riposo, non arriva tanto presto. Una volta raggiunto l’apice, la discesa è più banale, ma comunque non deprecabile.
Percorso tutto sommato corto che consiglio di combinare, come ho fatto io, con la ferrata “La Farina del Diavolo” a Villa Santina, ad appena mezz’ora di statale. Nel caso si disponga di longe non elasticizzata, consiglio una lunghezza tra i moschettoni di almeno 1,2 m per transizionare sempre in sicurezza da un cavo al successivo: in alcuni passaggi sono un po’ distanti.
Filippo Rosi
07/09/2019 at 16:37Tough, physical ferrata, not to be underestimated. Short overall and ideally combined with the nearby cliff. Strapbiomanti pieces. We need arms.
oscar.morin1977
18/10/2019 at 22:28Ma le hai fatte tutte Filippo ??