Review of the new Ferrata Fusetti that goes up the Sass de Stria near the Passo di Valparola on the border between the provinces of Belluno and Bolzano. The ferrata was built by the Alpini Military Korps and is dedicated to the memory of Lieutenant Fusetti who fought in this area during the bloody clashes that characterized Lagazuoi during the First World War. Medium-low difficulty route very interesting from a historical point of view.
The starting point of the itinerary is the large car park located at the Passo di Valparola near the Fort that can be reached from the Val Badia, from Cortina d'Ampezzo and from the Veneto side of the Col di Lana.
Directions for Google Maps available here.
From the parking lot of the Strong, we will have two options to reach the start of the Ferrata that is placed on the south slope of the Sass de Stria, or on the opposite side in comparison to the parking lot. From the parking lot we will see two traces of the path coming off towards the summit of Sass de Stria. Both are valid options, a longer one with access to the War Galleries, a shorter one:
The first few meters of via ferrata after the start are quite simple. It goes up first diagonally to the left and then on one leaning wall. After a short connection we begin a series of easy rocky leaps where you need to pay attention to debris bottom which carries the risk of moving stones that could become dangerous for those following. We proceed without substantial difficulties moving to the right until you reach one easy ledge connecting with a wooden stone guard that actually indicates the end of the first section of the route, up to this point easy. It is worth turning a second to admire the magnificent panorama of the Dolomites before resuming the climb.
In front of us you see Development of the route up leaning slab well climbing. Let's go up first to the right look at follow to the left a horizontal line followed by a short chimney not difficult full of holds for the hands. When terminated this trait, we are now under the most challenging section of the route (moderately difficult difficulty). The slab is now vertical and the supports, although present, are less obvious than those encountered so far. This goes up wall of about ten meters and you reach one war gallery which indicates that we are near the end of the route. We go upstairs last meters supported and we finish the route (45 'from the start - 1h 15' from the car).
The ferrata ends on a slabau about halfway through normal ascent to Sass de Stria. At this point we will be able to return at the nearby Passo di Valparola (20 'from the end of the ferrata - about 1h 30' total) or, recommended, climb to Sass de Stria.
The ascent to the summit initially follows one the tracks along the war trenches. These numerous trenches remind us of the bitter clashes that were fought in this area. Clearly visible on the opposite side of the Pass, the Lagazuoi with the Path of the Kaiserjager ascending to the summit. We continue on track until reaching well-grabbed rocks (I degree), we walk along some trenches and we go up two series of ladders with lanyard that in about 30 'from the end of the via ferrata lead us to the summit from where the look will span 360 degrees on the magnificent Dolomite groups of this area.
The Ferrata ascending to Sass de Stria is a nice climb, very logical that despite having moderate technical difficulties it is very climbing and satisfies even the expert hiker who can reduce the use of the cable to the bone. The context in which it takes place is very beautiful and the itinerary, which has a short approach and return, can be easily combined with one of the nearby via ferratas. The open-air museum on the First World War and on the testimonies that left us of the difficult life experienced by the soldiers in those areas is absolutely worth a visit. A note that we want to emphasize is the displacement of debris. As often happens for the Dolomite ferratas, the bottom is full of debris and particular prudence is needed in this itinerary not to move them since the line of ascent is rather linear and would inevitably fall towards the one who follows.
La ferrata al Sass de Stria è stata inaugurata il 18 Ottobre 2018. La ferrata è per gli appassionati un ritorno all'antico. Attrezzatura metallica al minimo, pochissimi pioli, salita logica e sempre arrampicabile in un contesto dal forte valore storico. Le difficoltà contenute la rendono perfetta per appassionati che sono agli inizi.
La via è dedicata al Sottotenente Mario Fusetti che nella zona del Lagazuoi si distinse durante la Grande Guerra per aver guidato un gruppo di soldati che conquistarono il Sass de Stria nell'Ottobre 1915. La battaglia proseguì e dopo alterne vicende la cima fu persa e il tenente ucciso. Il tenente e molti altri morti, caduti nei crepacci del Sass de Stria, non furono mai ritrovati.
From the Falzarego Pass we can undertake some beautiful aided trips. We report the climb to the Lagazuoi with the Aided path Kaiserjager (visible also from Sass de Stria) the ascent of the Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli in Cima Fanis Sud, the Ferrata Alpina Brigade at the Col de Bos. Going down towards Cortina we reach the Ferrata Averau and towards Passo Giau la Ferrata del Nuvolau. Still not far from this road it is possible to start the Tofana di Rozes with the Ferrella Lipella as well as going down towards the Val Badia you can climb the Piz Conturines and the Via Ferrata of Peace (the latter very long).